Dal Forno Romano Tasting

A recent tasting at Hedonism, the aptly named London wine exploratorium, was an opportunity to delve into the cult wines of Dal Forno Romano with Marco Pinna, the brand’s Export Director.

Grapes from younger vines, dried for ~45 days, 100% new oak barriques (70% French, 30% American).

• 2017 Romano Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 88 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore

  So light on the nose – it’s almost Pinot-esque (though certainly not once you taste it). Red cherry, wild strawberries, cracked black pepper. More subtle oak than the 2015. Noticeable tannins – quite grippy. Lacking a bit in texture and concentration. It’s odd to describe a Dal Forno wine – or any appassimento wine, really – as rustic but it sort of is. Needs food.

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• 2015 Romano Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore

  Deep ruby in colour. The aromas take some time to be coaxed from the glass but eventually emerge as ripe raspberry, red cherry, sage leaf, and charred cedar notes. There’s a strong whack of oak. The residual sugar is fairly low, but the ripeness gives an off-dry note initially, though on the finish its resolutely dry, showing a pleasant bitterness. When it opens up further it shows pleasant medicinal and herbal notes. Very long finish.

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Flagship wine. Grapes dried for ~90 days, 100% new oak barriques (50:50 French and American).

• 2015 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 92 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

  The nose is a bit closed and takes some time (and temperature) to emerge. Dark fruits and vanilla oak. A touch jammy but with loads of acidity and a pleasant bitterness. After a while it opens up to reveal dried hibiscus, brandied prunes, cocoa and tea. A bit closed at the moment – there is an even bolder wine set to emerge with patience.

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• 2011 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 95 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

  Profound on the nose: a wine you keep returning to as it unfurls its treasures. Roasted meat, charred rosemary, blackberry, cherry liqueur, Earl Grey tea, dark chocolate, blood orange, savoury herbs and prune. As it warms in the glass and breathes it comes together like a brandy-laden Christmas cake then gets more medicinal. Intense, ripe tannins and rich concentration give it an immense mouthfeel. Very long, very medicinal finish. Sip it like a digestif.

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• 2008 Romano Dal Forno Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 96 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

  The nose is so evocative and so herbal, it’s almost like a Chinato or Vermouth! It’s intensely savoury and woody, with notes of charred wood, grilled duck with griotte cherries, tea-soaked prunes, dried herbs, cracked black pepper, late season raspberries, violets. The alcohol is immense but perfectly integrated. It is concentrated but with a deftness, neither cloying nor mouth-coating. Pleasantly bitter. Very, very long and intense finish that evolves and has you coming back for more.

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Recioto-style, grapes dried for ~120 days.

• 2004 Romano Dal Forno Passito Vigna Seré 97 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT

  Incredible vibrant ruby with glints of electric blue. It’s a young-looking wine! On the nose it’s an intense riot of mint, chocolate, Christmas cake spice, anis, Cognac, pine cones, blackcurrant jam, charred cedar and prune. It’s evocative and enticing. Medium sweet but not luscious, well balanced with acidity and concentration. It’s not at all cloying. Oily and velvety. The finish goes on forever. It’s phenomenal and really worth savouring. Pair with dark chocolate, Christmas pudding or strong blue cheese. Or just sit back and enjoy it on its own. Serve slightly chilled.

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There is no denying these wines are expensive, though the production process is intensive (two green harvests meaning that each vine only produces five thinned bunches, there's the intensive drying process, 100% new oak, long ageing process in barrel and then bottle). If you're going to spend this amount of money then I would opt towards Quintarelli over Dal Forno for Valpolicella. The Amarone is a matter of taste - at these prices I prefer the opulance of Quintarelli or the purity of Monte dei Ragni, but Dal Forno's reductive style is alluring. The recioto-style is amazing and at a decent price point.