Kondo Vineyard Maker's Dinner in Barilotto

Barilotto, Otaru, Hokkaido
Tasted Sunday, March 17, 2024 by Tony Ling with 150 views

Flight 1 - Pet-Nat and Sparkling (2 Notes)

  • 2021 Kondo Vineyard Nakai Muller-Wa 94 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    9.5% ABV. Blend of 70% Muller Thurgau (harvested on 18 Sep, 2021) and 30% Auxerrois (harvested on 21 Sep, 2021) from Nakai Vineyard in Yoichi Nobori and Kondo Vineyard in Moseusi.

    Pressed in whole clusters in a basket press, fermented wild in plastic tanks without débourbage prior to fermentation. Once primary fermentation is completed, the frozen must obtained from pressing was added back to the bottle for secondary fermentation in bottle. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    1,234 bottles made and bottled without added SO2 on 24 Dec, 2021.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Pale golden to the eyes.

    Savory saline sea breeze like notes with citrus fruits like lemons, florals.

    Strong streak of minerality, high acidity with signature saline citrus fruits like lemon with oil and peels.

    93-94 points.

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  • 2014 Kondo Vineyard Pinot Noir Sparkling 95 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    Pressed with basket press, debourbage before primary fermentation and fermented with wild yeasts in barrel, aged in the same vessel for 1 year and bottled with added yeast. Then, it is aged in bottle for 4 years and 5 months, and remuaged. Disgorged by hand and recorked without dosage. 284 bottles made.

    Only made in NV style for 2012-2013 and 2014, and 2018. Not made in 2016-2017 given bad vintage in 2016 and 2017 for winery setup.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Pale rose golden to the eyes.

    Nose of classic Champagne autolytic notes like brioche and sulphurous notes. Orchard fruits like bruised golden apples, savory and with just the right amount of slight oxidative nuances.

    Bright acidity, strong streak of minerality. Flavorful and complex on the palate. Persistent and very long finish.

    Arguably the best example of its kind in my view in the region. 94-95 points.

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Flight 2 - Dry Whites (2 Notes)

  • 2019 Kondo Vineyard tomo blanc Moseusi 94 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    Blend of Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner, Aligote harvested on 16 Oct, 2019 from Kondo Vineyard in Moseusi.

    Pressed in whole-clusters in basket press. Fermentation in stainless steel tank with natural yeasts without débourbage, with MLF. Aged 7 months in stainless steel tank. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    331 bottles made and bottled with 10 ppm added SO2 on 8 Jun, 2020.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Medium golden to the eyes with clumps of deposits.

    Highly aromatic with steely fruits of grapefruits, stewed apples and pears, yellow and tropical fruits too. Honey. Very complex set of fruits indeed.

    Strong streak of minerality. Good bright acidity.

    Reminiscent of the Nakazawa style here with an even strong character in my view. Very enjoyable wine here. 94 points easy.

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  • 2019 Kondo Vineyard tap-kop blanc 94 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    Blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay harvested on 18 Oct, 2019 from Kondo Vineyard in Tap Kop (92%) and Moseusi (8%).

    Pressed in whole-clusters in basket press for 36 hours. The must is transferred by gravity to 600L oak and stainless steel barrels without débourbage prior to fermentation with wild yeasts. The wine is then aged for 10 months in the same containers. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    1,145 bottles made and bottled without added SO2 on 12 Sep, 2020.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Medium golden with clumps of deposits.

    Rich and honey preserved stone fruits like apricots. Herbal and florals.

    Very nice minerality with high acidity. Strong and long finish with spices.

    Complex and powerful Sauvignon Blanc indeed. 94 points.

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Flight 3 - Orange (1 Note)

  • 2019 Kondo Vineyard Konkon Kvevri 95 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    11.0% ABV. Blend of Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Kerner, Pinot Meunier, Sylvaner. harvested from 14 to 17 Oct, 2019 from Kondo Vineyard in Tap Kop (57%) and Moseusi (43%).

    Hand destemmed with nets, crushed with a manual roller crusher and placed into Georgian Kvevri going through 3 weeks of primary fermentation with pigeage. Then, the wine is transferred temporarily to plastic tanks then aged in barrels for 3 months. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    1,243 bottles made and bottled without added SO2 on 12 Sep, 2020.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Medium copperish orange to the eyes. Bright and clear.

    Gravner style fruits like preserved stone fruits like apricots, spices, clean flora, dried florals and tea leaves notes.

    Superb minerality and lots of energy. Bright acidity, very little if any tannins. Persistent finish.

    The best showing of orange wine from the region I tasted so far indeed. Wow. 94-95 points.

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Flight 4 - Red (2 Notes)

  • 2019 Kondo Vineyard Pinot Noir Moseusi 94 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    Blend of Pinot Noir (91%, Clones include MV6, 115, 113, 667, 777) and Pinot Meunier (9%) Gamay harvested from 7 to 17 Oct, 2019 from Kondo Vineyard in Moseusi (85%) and Tap Kop (15%).

    Hand destemmed with nets and placed into plastic tanks going through 2 weeks of semi-carbon maceration (using normally emitted CO2 from fermentation), with the 2nd week in gradual pigeage, and pressed after 22 days into barrels to continue fermentation, with MLF in barrels and aged for 7 months. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    557 bottles made and bottled without added SO2 on 31 May, 2020.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Pale garnet to the eyes.

    Prunes and wild berry fruits. Florals.

    Good backbone. Minerality driven, soft and silky tannins.

    Ready to be enjoyed already at this stage. 94 points.

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  • 2019 Kondo Vineyard Pinot Noir tap-kop 94 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    100% Pinot Noir (Clones include MV6, Occidental, 667) harvested from 10 to 14 Oct, 2019 from Kondo Vineyard in Tap Kop (Mikasa city).

    Hand destemmed with nets and placed into plastic tanks going through 2 weeks of semi-carbon maceration (using normally emitted CO2 from fermentation), with the 2nd week in gradual pigeage, and pressed after 20 days into barrels to continue fermentation, with MLF in barrels and aged for 7 months. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    967 bottles made and bottled without added SO2 on 31 May, 2020.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Pale garnet to the eyes, slightly darker than the Moseusi tasted side by side.

    Darker and richer cherry fruits driven. Cherry cola notes. Some vanilla notes from Francois Freres 600L barrel.

    Good structure and good energy and power on the palate.

    Still can benefit much from cellaring. 94 points with more potential in future.

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Flight 5 - Off-dry White (1 Note)

  • 2018 Kondo Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc tap-kop blanc-z 94 Points

    Japan, Hokkaido

    100% Sauvignon Blanc harvested on 25 Oct, 2019 from Kondo Vineyard in Tap Kop (97%) and Moseusi (3%).

    Pressed in whole-clusters in basket press for 36 hours. The must is transferred by gravity to 600L oak barrel without débourbage prior to fermentation with wild yeasts, with MLF. The wine is then aged for 3 months in oak barrel and then another 20 months in stainless steel tank. No filtration, fining and no additives added.

    413 bottles made and bottled with 10 ppm added SO2 on 12 Sep, 2020.

    PNP into Kimura Piccolo glass ("Root" to "Flower" day): Medium golden to the eyes.

    Honey preserved apricots. Malty nuances, herbaceous notes.

    Slightly off-dry. Strong minerality with high acidity, with slight fizz. Herbal and bittersweet finish.

    Unique rich and flavorful style. 93-94 points.

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