March 2024 Gouges/Chevillon Dinner

YH Beijing - SF
Tasted Sunday, March 3, 2024 by ylkim30 with 28 views

Flight 1 - Champagne (2 Notes)

2008 Eric Rodez Champagne Grand Cru Empreinte de Terroir Blanche

France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

A little bruised apple on opening, but with air, the champagne becomes leaner, more precise, and more mineral in the glass. While there are some subtle oxidative notes, it’s balanced with a sense of freshness, nice acidity and a lovely fine bead. I had the NV Cuvee de Crayeres a couple of months ago (I think a ‘22 disgorgement) and what struck me about both wines was how both had a similar evolution with air – a little underwhelming on opening, but evolving into pure, lean, precise, mineral-driven wines. I wonder what this wine will taste like 5-10 years from now.

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NV Olivier Horiot Champagne Sève Rosé de Saignée En Barmont Les Riceys

France, Champagne

Deep and rich with bright red fruit that has a very intense, sweet and medicinal finish that kind of reminds me of Robitussin. Very intriguing, grabs your attention, but I don’t really think I like it. Bummer, since I have a bottle of this not to look forward to anymore.

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Flight 2 - Red Burgundy (6 Notes)

2010 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

Quite a lovely nose with a hint of sous bois and floral notes. Vibrant dark red fruit with bright acidity and approachable, though still somewhat, firm tannins, with a warm, spicy finish.

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2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

A little tight on opening, it opens up a couple of hours of air in the decanter, but retains a dark fruited, brooding character. The tannins are not overwhelming, though still quite drying on the finish. A little dull compared to a '10 Pruliers I had next to it, but it does have greater depth and concentration with an impressive finish reminiscent of warm baking spices.

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2010 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains Flawed

France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

Corked

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1999 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

It’s fascinating to taste a wine that is 11 years older than the '10 Prulier next to it, yet exhibiting much firmer tannins with a more imposing structure. There is impressive stuffing here with a beautiful nose, but I mainly got a wall of tannin throughout most of the night. Others who revisited later on said it was opening up a bit, but this needs a lot more time.

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2012 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

This was popped and poured at the dinner, and it was initially quite closed on the nose and the palate. But, texturally, it was very elegant with a weightless presence on the palate. It took about an hour or two for it to open up, showcasing some dark fruit and meatiness on the palate and a spicy finish. Lovely, but could have benefited from a longer decant.

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2013 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières

France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

Beautiful bright red fruit, gentle tannins, and a delicate and lovely palate presence. The most ready of the red wines tonight and an instructive contrast with the burlier Gouges. Not as complex or as spicy as the Gouges, but just a pure pleasure to drink.

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