Holly's Birthday Dinner - an A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon Retrospective

I had been looking for an excuse to do a vertical tasting of A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon and Holly’s birthday seemed about perfect as any! She made it clear that a small dinner with friends was all that she cared for so here we go! I decided to select three vintages spanning 30 years, ultimately choosing 1988, 2008 and the 2018. All three wines were poured into decanters about an hour prior to service and served to the group blind. The menu for the evening was grilled rack of lamb with a saffron, asparagus risotto and Brussels sprouts. All prepared by me, of course.

• 2013 Maurice Vesselle Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé 92 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Maurice Vesselle is a récoltant whose small estate of maybe 15 acres, is in Bouzy and Tours sur Marnes. Most of their vineyards, all Grand Cru, are dedicated to Pinot Noir with the balance, Chardonnay. They are a strict no-malo, all INOX producer. One other note, the corks on these bottles are so stubborn. I had one hell of a time getting it extracted in an elegant fashion. We had people over and I was multitasking, making the risotto which, of course, needed my undivided attention. Ultimately, I ended up grabbing the Wüsthof and sabering that mf’er.
  
  So, sabered and poured. The wine is a straw color with medium- viscosity and a persistent mousse. On the nose, the wine is developing with notes of strawberry, light brioche, lemons, marzipan and limestone minerals. On the palate, the wine is dry with high acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long, mineral driven and zippy! This needs a ton of air at this stage but if you allow it, what a treat! Better after 2025 through 2043. The Millésimé is typically 80/20, Pinot Noir/Chardonnay. Dosage 4g/l (and seems it). Disgorged June 2023.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1988 A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Poured into a decanter about an hour prior to service; enjoyed over period that lasted a few hours. After removing the capsule, cork was revealed to be completely saturated and moldy at the top. It was positively nasty. After wiping it down, I was able to extract the cork intact, with the use of a Durand. The 1988 pours a deep garnet with near opaque core; medium viscosity with moderate staining of the tears and some sediment even after decanting. On the nose, the wine is a vinous mix of ripe and desiccated black and red fruits: brambles and currants, with tobacco, bell pepper, leather, organic earth and gentle warm spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and so delicious. Brilliant. The ’88 is ready to drink now with a short decant but has plenty of stuffing to drink well for at least another 10+ years and well-stored examples will be alive for much longer.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• 2008 A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Poured into a decanter about an hour prior to service; enjoyed over period that lasted a few hours. The 2008 pours a deep ruby color with a near opaque core; medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. On the nose, the wine is developing with mostly fresh, tart, vibrant red fruits: red brambles, red currants and tart cherries with some pyrazines, tobacco, some cool herbs, dry earth and gentle warm spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannin and bordering high acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is medium+ and the body is perceptibly leaner than both the 1988 and the 2018. That being said, I love its transparency because it is clearly telling part of the story of the vintage. The frost was merciless in Dry Creek in the spring of 2008. So far, the evolution seems slow to me. Drink now with a decant but considering the structure, this has a long life ahead. If I had another bottle, I would open my next after 2028.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2018 A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Poured into a decanter about an hour prior to service; enjoyed over period that lasted a few hours. The 2018 pours a deep ruby color with a near opaque core; medium+ viscosity with moderate staining of the tears. One the nose, the wine is youthful with notes of ripe, tart black and red fruits: blackberries, black currants, tobacco, some bell pepper, herbs and rich baking spices. On the palate, the wine is dry with medium+ tannins and medium+ acid. Confirming the notes from the nose. The finish is long and rich but has some great zip thanks to the acid. Easily the most rounded of the three and, in true Rafanelli fashion, I don’t find the oak to be fully integrated at this point in its evolution. But it will. Better after 2028 through 2048+.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

First and foremost, Holly loved her birthday dinner and all who were present to share in the evening. Overall, there was quite a bit of lively discussion around the three wines present. All three were universally enjoyed by everyone at the table and all three were lovely compliments to the lamb and risotto. That being said, everyone had their favorites and half of the table identified the 1988 as being their WOTN. Considering how everything was so well integrated and in balance; I don’t blame them. The 2008 and 2018 split the other half of the table. Ultimately, none of this surprises me since there are people who prefer youthful exuberance over maturity. Of course, everyone wanted to know which one I preferred and I gave my standard, honest answer: in a lineup like this, I thoroughly enjoy and appreciate all three equally; each for their own merits. It’s part of what I love about following producers I follow, vintage after vintage. There is no homogeneity; each vintage has a story to tell. However, that 1988 will make me think for days. Finding back vintages of producer’s like Rafanelli is rare and that’s why tonight was a prime example of why my cellar exists; to curate experiences like this.