Giacosa Riservas and Cappellano Francos

Hearth Restaurant, NYC
Tasted Thursday, May 16, 2024 by kenv with 249 views

Introduction

A group of Neb Heads (most of them from the Nebbiolo group formed through the Vinous forum) met to check out two sets of wines: Riservas from Bruno Giacosa and Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco from Gabutti in Serralunga d'Alba. The food and service at Hearth were superb, even better than previous dinners here.

Photos and more details can be found on my website.

Flight 1 - Flight 1: Mystery Wine and Giacosa Falletto Riserva (3 Notes)

Fava Bean Salad with Pecorino Toscano, Spring Onion, and lots of Garlic on Grilled Bread

  • 2008 Alessandro e Gian Natale Fantino Barolo Riserva Bussia Cascina Dardi 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Served totally blind. Double-decanted around 9:30 am.] Earthy nose of cherries and spice. Lovely palate of red fruit, cinnamon and licorice. Young, but quite well-balanced. Should age well for 15-20 years. Considering a release price of under $60, this was a great value. Everyone guessed that this was nebbiolo. Once I was told that bringing this was inspired by a TN of mine, I was able to guess the wine.

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  • 1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 98 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted around 10am.] Stunning nose of fruitcake, licorice, and roses. Expansive and harmonious in the mouth. Long, complex finish. The balance and harmony are terrific. Fully mature now. No reason to hold further.

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  • 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 98 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted at 1:30pm for half an hour.] Nose of dark red fruits. Long, rich, juicy, complex, tannic. A great wine, still not at full maturity. Still, a joy to drink. Interesting comparison with the 1990 that has reached maturity. I would give this another decade to reach full maturity. 98-100

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Flight 2 - Flight 2: Giacosa Barbaresco Riservas (3 Notes)

Maccheroni in Pork Ragu with Whipped Ricotta and Fried Rosemary

Flight 3 - Flight 3: Cappellano Pie Franco 1996-2001 (3 Notes)

Wild Striped Bass with Braised Artichoke, New Potato, and Lemon Confit

  • 1996 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 99 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted around noon.] Huge nose of black fruit. A monster in the mouth with tons of tannin and black fruit. Just a stunningly complex wine that needs at least another decade. 99-100

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  • 1998 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 96 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted for 3 hours around 1pm.] Sour black cherry in the nose and mouth. Long, complex, still a huge wine that needs another decade. 95-97

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  • 2001 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 100 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted for 3 hours at 8pm the night before.] Stunning nose of black fruit, licorice, and something dark and floral. Rich, complex, tannic, but with plenty of rich black fruit. Archetypal Serralunga. Wow! Still quite young, but incredible harmony and balance. WOTN for me and several other folks.

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Flight 4 - Flight 4: Cappellano Pie Franco 2003-2005 (3 Notes)

More of the Maccheroni in Pork Ragu from course two.

  • 2003 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted around 9am.] Big smoky red fruit nose. Tannic with high alcohol. Juicy red fruit. A little concerned that this has too much tannin and alcohol for the fruit. But it might show better if it was not in this company.

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  • 2004 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 98 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted around noon.] Gorgeous nose of red and black fruit with subtle hints of licorice and spice. Huge and expansive. A big, harmonious young wine with a great future. Probably needs 20 years. 98-??

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  • 2005 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted around 9:30 am.] More of that big Serralunga black fruit in the nose and mouth. Rich, juicy, more open than the 2004, but not by a lot. Still quite young. Long finish of tart red fruit and licorice. Needs another decade.

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Flight 5 - Flight 5: Cappellano Pie Franco 2011-2012 (2 Notes)

Rohan Duck Breast with Morels, Confit Carrot, and Ginger Coriander Jus

  • 2011 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 95 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Double-decanted around noon for half an hour.] Nose of smoky red raspberries. Rich and tannic, but not as backward as the earlier wines. The duck is able to hide a lot of the tannin making this perhaps the most drinkable of these Francos tonight.

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  • 2012 Cappellano Barolo Piè Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    [Opened at 11pm. Double decanted at 5pm.] Huge black fruit nose. Expansive and juicy. A little sour without the duck, but lovely with it. Needs time, but perhaps less than any of the previous wines.

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Closing

The group said we want to taste great wines and we did! If Barolo had Grand Crus like in Burgundy, these would be near the top of the list. All in all, a great evening of food, wine, and friends.

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