Dinner with visiting Rhys guests

Very educational tasting of Rhys wines with their sales director John who was a great host, and winemaker Jeff who joined us for a bit after dinner.

Rhys is one of my favourite new-world wines since I first discovered them a couple of years ago so was good to learn about the different single vineyards that they have. Found it interesting that their highest vineyards see the most stem use (in particular the Skyline), and the Hillside is a selection (from barrel) of their Alpine and Horseshoe vineyards. Reinforced my view that these wines have a lovely restraint and are very much age-worthy.

Generously provided by the producer

• 2016 Rhys Chardonnay Bearwallow Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Compared to the other Rhys Chards that I’ve had, this felt much leaner and marked by acidity. Apparently saw no new oak which made the citrus fruit seem austere, agree with a previous note that said this felt like Chablis but without the crispness. Overall, reticent and muted.

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• 2016 Rhys Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Savoury earthy note that I find common in Rhys, some candied cherry fruit emerged with more air. Bit one-dimensional compared to the other single vineyards.

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• 2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  From 375ml. Savoury, rustic note was present again that I felt gave the wine a good restraint. Superb structure, most serious and had the most potential out of the wines tonight.

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• 2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  From 375ml. Dominated by sappy, sweet cranberry fruit; most new-world out of the line-up.

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• 2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Mt. Pajaro Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  From 375ml. Showed similarly to the Alpine but with more expressive dark red fruit. Most open-knit and ready that made it my favourite on the night.

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• 2013 Rhys Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard Flawed

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  Similar to my previous impression. Northern Rhone-like with savoury blue fruit but rather muted, agreed with someone who suspected this to be mildly corked.

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• 2006 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  From magnum. I thought only a Burgundy could withstand so much oak but when revealed to be a new-world I thought it was a producer stylistically similar to Kongsgaard. Impressively built but too creamy and large-scaled for me.

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• 2011 Olivier Merlin Pouilly-Fuissé Clos des Quarts 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Another Chardonnay where the oak stood out, guessed Puligny because of the powerful, linear citrus fruit. Not a producer that I am familiar with but impressive winemaking here.

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• 2016 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Spécial Club Rosé 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Clearly a grower with generous dosage but without being overbearing. Pale salmon in colour, always a fan of this maker’s wines for their generosity both with age and in their youth.

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• NV Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Fidèle 90 Points

  France, Champagne

  Clearly a Pinot-dominant champagne with the richness and ripe red fruit. Not the biggest fan of this cuvee, always seems too strict compared to the Blanc d’Argile.

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• NV Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cuvée de Réserve 85 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Even accounting for the fact that I had this at the end of the night, so forgettable and generic.

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• 2018 Bindi Pinot Noir Dixon 92 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges

  Started off with savoury and cola note which made me think that this was a Gevrey because I tasted my Damoy which was remarkably similar. After some time in the glass it became jammier and sweeter, agreed with someone who said that this was cool-climate new-world Pinot Noir from somewhere like Victoria. Well-balanced with kirsch and spice notes, but this felt older than its age.

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• 2000 Pierre Damoy Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Tamisot 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  My contribution, perfect cork. Even split among the table on whether this was new or old-world; tasted quite young so most guesses were late-2000s onwards. Rustic, cola notes on the nose, palate was well-balanced and elegant that nobody guessed Gevrey even when it was revealed to be a Burgundy. Well-integrated at this stage, possessing depth with age that I find only in Burgundies. Some autumnal, oxidative notes emerged after a few hours.

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• 2016 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Wow Jeff the Rhys winemaker managed to absolutely nail this wine completely blind (he guessed '17 Lafarge Aigrots) - apparently because Lafarge's use of a rotofermenter of sorts gives a combination of aggressive tannins and sweet fruit. Still primary and needs time.

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• 1977 D'Oliveiras Madeira Boal

  Portugal, Madeira

  Not the most experienced with port but this felt resolved with elegant honey and caramel notes.

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