So you thought you knew about Rosé?

Crouch End Cellars
Tasted Wednesday, May 22, 2024 by oenanthe with 229 views

Introduction

Most people, me included, probably stick to Provence and Corsica when it comes to Rosé. It's a tried and trusted formula, and when you get what passes for summer round here this is what we turn to. However....

Flight 1 - The classics (2 Notes)

  • 2021 Triennes Rosé 87 Points

    France, Provence, Mediterranée

    Pale pink, not quite the in-vogue light grey, but you get the idea. Slight spritz, really fresh and delicious. As a group we talked about how it was quite difficult to write a meaningful tasting note about this style of Rosé, at which point one of us piped up that they'd already written "lovely" three times and we were on wine #2...... Anyway, this was lovely. Nice balance, nice light fruit, nice everything, and in particular a nice light price. Does everything you want it to.

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  • 2021 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 92 Points

    France, Provence, Bandol

    As with the Triennes '21 an attractive pale pink, but a slightly darker shade or so it seemed. This follows onto the palate, with just more depth in every dimension that makes it an absolute pleasure to drink. Frankly for the price you would hope so. This was delicious, very lovely in fact, but against the £7 starting price of the Triennes can't be said to be good value. The question is whether you would prefer to drink two of the former for every one of these and I think I'd still probably fall into the Tempier camp. It's stellar stuff, and is pretty ageworthy for this style. I've had a fair few now and I can't really say that they change much from one year to the next. My #2 WOTN.

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Flight 2 - Regional France (2 Notes)

  • 2020 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Rosé 88 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

    Medium pink and deliciously sweet, we are immediately in a different place to the Provencal wines. It has aspects of an aged red, and a fearsome 15% ABV that whilst isn't hugely apparent on the palate shows up very distinctly as legs on the glass. It means this wouldn't ever be a garden party quaffer unless you wanted to get rid of your guests quite quickly, but as an interesting wine it's right up there. There is a distinct syrupy tinned strawberry component to it that I can't say I've ever come across before.

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  • 2019 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rosé Fleur de Pinot 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé

    Pale red, like a very watered-down burgundy. Translucent, also like red burgundy - go figure. I'd been wanting to try this for a long time and it did not disappoint. It's funky and natty, and super interesting, much more like a light red wine than what I have as my definition of a Rosé. Presumably this is the intent. So thirst-quenching, even on a miserable rain-soaked London evening. I could see myself reaching for this instead of, say, a young Beaujolais, but equally I don't see myself wanting to go and stock up for some reason, fun though it undoubtedly is.

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Flight 3 - Italy (2 Notes)

  • 2017 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti Vinudilice 87 Points

    Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC

    Rosé? I'm learning a lot this evening! This has a fortified nose more than a little reminiscent of an aged Madeira. Very peculiar! Attractively sharp on the palate, full, the oxidative nature seems to fall away to be replaced by a musty fruitiness. This is most definitely not a quaffer, and actually not my thing at all, but again it is high-interest wine. But one that you would not dare serve to the general public!

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  • 2022 Azienda Faraone Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Le Vigne di Faraone 88 Points

    Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo

    Herbal ribena. In colour and taste! This is powerful, rich and robust, and I question how it can possibly be called a Rosé but there you have it! This is perhaps easier going than the Etna, especially the aromatics which are great - all about the shimmering fruit - but the 14.5% ABV I do find a little bit of a distration. No swimming pools here!

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Flight 4 - Piedmont (1 Note)

  • 2022 Nervi-Conterno Il Rosato 88 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC

    Nebbiolo? I would never have guessed this, in fact I don't think I even knew they made Rosé from this grape. In fact this is a lot more like Rosé than some of the wines that preceded it this evening, it's quite light fruited, a medium pale pink, decent acidity and rather 'summery' albeit a little more serious than the French versions. Decent, if unexpected!

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Flight 5 - Greece (2 Notes)

  • 2013 Thymiopoulos Rosé de Xinomavro (Late Release) 93 Points

    Greece, Macedonia

    Sensational nose, this is glorious stuff. Sweet banana (those little tiny ones you get in the tropics), citrus and strawberry. Next level tasty, you could lose yourself in a bottle of this. Again, not a quaffer, but high interest wine that is simply beautiful. Impossible to pin down what this is reminiscent of, perhaps it just isn't! Easy to give the WOTN and most of my fellow tasters thought so too and it romped away.

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  • 2022 Iliana Malihin Liatiko Rosé 88 Points

    Greece, Crete, Rethymno

    Pale red compexion. Natty. Red fruit and piercing acidity make this very refreshing. Rising above the fruit I find a burnt toffee aspect with used coffee grounds, and with time a funkiness emerges that isn't entirely clean. Yet another unique bottle that makes you question your norms. What fun evenings these are!

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Flight 6 - Rioja (2 Notes)

  • 2012 Bodega Classica Rioja Hacienda López de Haro Gran Reserva Rosado 92 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

    Dark pink and fabulous. Notes declining but this was my #3 WOTN. Serious wine, but with a fun streak, delicate floral and nutty notes tinkle over the top whilst the rest of the wine is pretty robust and forthright. Has a roundness to it, a smooth and mellow character. Loved it.

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  • 2011 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 88 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Another wine on the oxidative scale, slightly darker than the LdHaro 2012, this is more evolved than just the difference of one year would suggest. As such it isn't my thing, I shy away from this style but I can see that it has its supporters as once again it is so unique - think Madeira with red fruit and vanilla icecream.

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Closing

Well what an education that was. A tour of France beyond the coast, mainland Italy and Sicily, mainland Greece and Crete and finally the Rioja region in Spain. Forget what yoiu thought you knew. Massively eye-opening, hugely interesting, wowsers.

Thanks so much to the gang for digging out some thought-provoking wines and giving me a chance to realise how little I knew! Will I be changing my buying habits? For the most part no, but I will be much better armed when navigating restaurant wine lists on the continent now.

Hats off to CEC as well, a good spread and great hosts.

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