Terroir-istes International - Spain, Galicia

An exploration of some whites and red wines from Galicia

• 2017 Borja Perez Listán Blanco Artífice 87 Points

  Spain, Canary Islands

  (Tasted Blind): A deep yellow colour with golden edges. The nose evokes dry quince, orange skin, calendula and hay, reminiscent of Southern Rhône attributes. Some oak influence was noted, and as it opened, I found white chocolate and spice notes, including caraway seed with aniseed and fennel accents.
  The palate is broad with a sprightly, vibrant acidity. Some fragrant elements with spicy notes come forward, accompanied by ginger, galangal, cantaloupe melon, dried apricot (meebos) and a very subtle touch of vanilla.
  Fab focus and intensity, the style is more savoury than overt fruitiness with nutty notes that border on fino sherry characteristics - a little more "hipster" coming through with skin ferment characters and closing with saltiness and some light lactone notes.

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• 2019 Terras Gauda Rías Baixas Abadia de San Campio 90 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas

  (Tasted Blind): A light lemon-yellow colour that visually looks fresh. The nose is elevated, with a fresh, intense orange, salt-encrusted lemon zest and minerals.
  The palate follows suit with zingy, almost blade sharp, acidity and pungent flavours that centre on citrus: freshly squeezed ripe lemon, tangerine segments, and yellow grapefruit. Super bright the wine has remarkable focus, depth and a pithy texture. Fairly broad, with some glycerol, the wine moves increasingly to a Meyer lemon note with its long, persistent finish. Tight with a touch of lemon leaf and Granny Smith apple on the close. Deliciously fresh!

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• 2015 Bodegas Valdesil Valdeorras Valderroa Carballo 90 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras

  (Tasted Blind): An attractive mid-purple colour. Lightly floral aromas segue with a range of blue fruits, violet, sour cherry, mineral and raspberry. There is a cologne-like nuance as well as a dash of white pepper.
  With a ripe and intense entry, the wine is relatively sumptuous in the mouth with subtle power. Again, it is a prominent violet with blueberry pastille and light spices. The mid-palate is fleshy and lush with medium+ acidity. Everything seems well integrated, clean, and of decent length, and it closes with a peppery tang on the finish. The wine resembled Blaufränkisch's light body and firm, dry tannins (some felt a little bitter).

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• 2015 Telmo Rodríguez Valdeorras La Falcoeira 'A Capilla' 91 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Valdeorras

  (Tasted Blind): A deep and intense red leaning to garnet. The intense aroma is all violets and pressed blue flowers with blueberry, red cherry and that peppery touch. More subdued but present were some sliced strawberry with balsamic undertones.
  The palate entry feels cool, with camphor notes and stems giving it a sappiness. Fresh with flavours of mint and blueberry pastille, there is an overlying garrigue-like character that emerges, showing mineral qualities.
  Light to medium-bodied, the wine shows some oak notes softened the mid-palate with a sprinkle of floral spiciness but more creamy in texture than toasty. Notes of pressed red flowers, crushed rocks, pepper and stem elements enhance the menthol feel in the mid-palate and counter the compote-like juicy sweetness. Meanwhile, the crisp acidity works nicely with the firm, sinewy tannins, preventing it from becoming overwhelming and framing the wine. Fairly long, this wine is in a good place of development.
  A field blend of Mencía, Sousón, Brencia, Merincao and Mouraton, along with a touch of Godello.

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• 2017 Castro Candaz (Raul Perez & Rodrigo Mendez) Ribeira Sacra A Boca Do Demo 90 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra

  (Tasted Blind): A mid-crimson colour towards a slight orange rim, indicating some maturity. The nose offers savoury nuances with violet, fresh earth, blue fruits and peppercorns. There is almost iron bru or blood-like quality lingering on the bouquet.
  A smooth, sweet entry that delivers red cherry compote and blueberry fool through which minerals sit and a lovely concentration of flavour through older vines (?). There is a grippy mid-palate texture and I picked up sinewy, slightly sappy tannins and more white pepper, indicating stem inclusion. The mid-palate has a balsamic note reminiscent of aged Modena vinegar with herbal infusions, and there is a lingering dry, smooth river stone quality that, together with marinated strawberry and orange peel, lingers long on the finish. Grainy tannins and a refreshing acidity frame help the wine along nicely.
  Sourced from grapes grown in the La Chantada AC near the Sil River. Soils are granite-based, and vines are 70+ years. Whole bunch ferment. Aged larger foudres.

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• 2012 Niepoort Ribeira Sacra Ladredo 92 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra

  (Tasted Blind): Light to mid-garnet colour with an orange rim. Attractive bouquet of pressed blue flowers, violet, pepper, and blue fruits, all with a perfumed edge. The entry is more oak-influenced with subtle spice notes and flavours of black pepper, dried earth, soy, and malt/yeast nutrients.
  Grippy tannins structure this intense, medium-bodied, juicy wine that l leads to a long and enjoyable finish. It closed with more blue flowers and roasted peppered steak, and I felt the oak added an interesting (and not negative) brandy-like character.
  Single vineyard planted in the Amandi sub-AC. blend of 30 Garnacha Tintorera (syn. Alicante Bouschet) with Mencía and other unnamed grapes. 40% whole bunch, large used foudres.

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• 2010 Niepoort Ribeira Sacra Ladredo 84 Points

  Spain, Galicia, Ribeira Sacra

  (Tasted Blind): A mid-ruby colour but with a cloudy appearance, indicating unfiltered (?)
  Initially closed even a little funky, but with time, it reveals aromas of red cherry compote, balsamic and blueberries that deepen and become more expressive with aeration. The entry is sweet fruit with a noted strident acidity in which rests blue fruits and lemon wedges. A tricky wine to judge; the finish has a drying texture and bitter qualities. The wine was developed in glass to reveal cabbage, coffee, and soy sauce. Like the colour, it all felt a little murky with the harsh acidity and a lack of fruit, making it challenging.

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