Harlan and Mascot with some Bordeaux

Got invited to a tasting of Harlan and Mascot against some Bordeaux wines by a generous friend. Was sitting beside the Harlan rep and thought very hard how to politely say that I didn’t like the two overtly candied, clearly new-world wines (which turned out to be the Mascot and Continuum which was an extra brought by someone else); and that I couldn’t understand why the Harlan was the 10x the price of any of the Bordeaux. Unlike the Bond tasting a couple of years ago where I actually liked most of the wines for their savoury and restrained nature, there were no pleasant surprises here. Top three were VCC, Montrose, Harlan; bottom three by far were the awful Continuum, Mascot and the Telmont champagne (I came late so unfortunately the waitress mixed up and poured the Krug into the Telmont glass).

• 2010 Château Léoville Poyferré 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Didn't know the vintages of the wines but when told they were mostly from the same vintage, quite obvious that they were all '09/10. Same impressions as the last time, a modern extracted Bordeaux that made me think right bank because of its international nature, but still retaining the tannin profile of an old-world so identified this as a Bordeaux.

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• 2011 Vieux Château Certan 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

  Haven't had any 2011 right banks but those who said VCC was a banger in this vintage were absolutely right. Lifted nose with superb elegance on the palate. Lush fruit, soft and silky tannins with the right amount of acidity. Eventually guessed this as a new-world because of the overt fruit but in hindsight it’s rare for a new-world to be so delicate. By far the best wine of the night for me, and no surprise that it was a producer that I love.

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• 2010 Château Canon 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  Showed quite similarly to the Harlan alongside - quite tannic with unintegrated oak that made me think both of them were new-world. Some earthy notes emerged with air together with polished blue fruit that made it quite appealing at first. After more time in the glass this developed an unpleasant mint and liquorice note. Found it similar to the Poyferre so guessed Bordeaux for this.

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• 2010 Harlan Estate 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Suspected this might have been a new-world as it showed a similarly to a tannic, oaky Canon alongside, but with more candied fruit. Became more restrained with air as cool black fruit emerged, thought this was a well-made left-bank that was shutdown since it wasn’t very expressive. Similar to the Canon so I guessed Bordeaux. Only new-world that I managed to finish but not distinctive enough to be worth anywhere near its price.

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• 2010 Château Montrose 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

  Now this was undoubtedly a classic left-bank and very Montrose. Savoury, pure dark fruit with graphite notes. Classic Montrose restraint albeit a little austere at this point in its life. My second favourite of the night after the VCC but this will go on for much longer.

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• 2018 The Mascot 80 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Candied, jammy fruit on both the nose and the palate. On the bright side, less extracted and more purity than the Continuum alongside but couldn’t finish more than half the glass.

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• 2018 Continuum Proprietary Red 65 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Showed similarly to the mascot but with more vanilla and liquorice on the nose. More manipulated so had artificially smooth tannins and a chocolate milkshake texture. Took a sip and gave it to my friend alongside. Up there for the worst wine of the year.

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• 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  One for the road. Fresh and weighty for a Chablis, some 2010 sweetness present. Good, if not memorable.

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