Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck GG Tasting and Lunch

An extensive tasting of 16 vintages of Schäfer-Fröhlich's Bockenauer Felseneck GG (2007-2022). All wines came from the cellars of Rieslinghuis (Felix & David Warners) and were purchased directly from the estate through the years. The tasting flights were interspersed by the four courses of an excellent lunch prepared by David Warners with accompanying wines, also from Schäfer-Fröhlich. Vintages from 2015 until the present day generally performed at a very high level, there seems to have been a slightly weaker period from 2010-2014, and from the older vintages 2007 and 2009 (probably the winner overall) showed extremely well. A wonderful event, great fun and very instructive.

• NV Emrich-Schönleber Weissburgunder Brut 89 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Primary, lovely yellow apple fruit, uncomplicated, nice whiff of spice, pure and well made, ripe acidity, good length.

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• 2022 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Lots of sponti aromas on the nose, very reductive, delightful juicy ripeness on the palate interplays with spicy minerality, extremely elegant and tightly wound but tranquil, playful elderflower finish.

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• 2021 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Crisper and cooler than the 2022, not as reductive, wonderful minerally energy, orange zest, very precise, tight and focused, spicy slate, intense and long finish, drier than the 2022.

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• 2020 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Still some reduction in the background on the nose, playful fruit, whiff of sucrosité, much livelier and refined than the bigger 2019, feels a lot younger too, riper than the 2021 but equally tight, crisp acidity, vibrant, great drive on the finish.

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• 2019 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Starting to show some evolution, hint of wax on the nose, ripe orchard fruit with a mango edge, concentrated and ripe palate, balanced and harmonious, generous and comfortable, piercing acidity, grippy bitters are finely textured, ripe but zesty citrus and mango on the intense and very long finish. Quite spectacular right now, a full organ wine.

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• 2018 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Like 2019 a very warm vintage but much less weighty and tropical, remarkably restrained and fresh, well-balanced ripeness, whiff of Pernod, very persistent finish, seems more monolithic at first but develops its complexity quickly in the glass, playful minerality on the long finish.

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• 2017 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs

  Germany, Nahe

  Not really convincing, very closed on the nose, there is a sense of herbaceous bitterness on the finish. Does not open up in the glass, even after several hours. In no way consistent with my earlier note from 2019, probably not a good bottle. Not rated.

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• 2016 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Beautifully elegant, focused and precise, lifted and floral, citrus and orchard fruit, in a beautiful stage between youth and maturity, spicy minerality, zesty grapefruit, light on its feet, long and driven finish with a whiff of aromatic green herbs. Good future.

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• 2015 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Mature and tranquil but underpinned by excellent acidity and spicy minerally energy, warmer style than the fresher 2016, slightly monolithic aromatically, not perfectly clean on the finish. Good wine, but lacks the excitement of the 2016.

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• 2014 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  From a cool and wet vintage, light and dry, slightly stalky, herbaceous finish.

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• 2013 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Lifted and floral, aromatic, seal wax and zesty citrus, whiff of botrytis, bright acidity but lacks a bit of energy and length on the finish.

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• 2012 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs

  Germany, Nahe

  In a difficult phase or not a good bottle? Not easy to approach right now, putty on the nose, more expressive on the palate, almond stones, hint of walnut, the bitters are quite grippy. Not rated.

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• 2011 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Warm vintage, slightly low acidity, crème pâtissière, creamy and spicy, attractive, ripe fruit is a bit warm but not overripe, fuzzy finish with some back-end heat. Ready. Different from the bottle tasted in 2022.

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• 2010 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 90 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Much deeper colour than the 2009, not really harmonious, honey and spice, apricot, not perfectly clean, reflects its unbalanced growing season, honeyed finish. Like many 2010 GG's this was spectacular in youth, but it is now disjointed ( a fate which many share).

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• 2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 96 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  A spectacular bottle, much better than on the previous three occasions. So young and energetic, creamy lemon, flowers and spicy slate, the minerally freshness and acidity continues to hide the power and concentration even after 15 years, supremely precise and focused, everything in the right place, tightly wound, laser-like acidity, lemon zest, long and linear finish. Great future.

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• 2008 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 92 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Juicy and fresh, surprisingly a riper style than the 2007, slightly grippy bitters, not really harmonious, honey.

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• 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Beautifully fresh and elegant, complete and precise, citrus and apple, vanilla cream, bright and youthful, flowing and elegant, floral and creamy, long and linear finish. An amazing 2007.

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• 2008 Schäfer-Fröhlich Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Showing beautifully in its maturity, develops very well in the glass, lovely tension and interplay between delicately honeyed, sweet fruit (orange, mango), and firm acidity, spicy depth, palpable minerality on the finish, not quite as detailed as the best Felseneck GG’s (but in better shape than the Felseneck 2008 today).

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• 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese 93 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Expressive nose, juicy peaches, flower honey, spicy depth, whiff of blonde caramel, wonderful freshness, intense and ripe but superbly elegant, delicately sweet, long and playful finish. At perfect peak.

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• 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling halbtrocken 91 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  We had two different bottlings of Felseneck Halbtrocken today, AP24 and AP46. The label for this wine in the picture is consistent with AP24 (the label for AP46 is slightly different), so I will list this here, 12% ABV. Waxy and gently sweet, delicately spicy, a more refined and floral style than the deeper AP46, ripe acidity but lively, minerally core, harmonious, creamy and flowing finish.

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• 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling halbtrocken 91 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  12.5% ABV. More power and depth than the #24 which accompanied it, honeyed fruit, bright acidity but a bit more muted aromatically, warm spices and apricot, finishes a bit blunt with noticeable bitters.

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• 2007 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felseneck Riesling Kabinett 94 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Energetic, youthful, light and bright, intensity but without weight, very minerally, grapefruit and blood orange, very good length. So precise.

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• 1959 Reichsrat Von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Riesling Auslese 93 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  A bottle from my private collection, completely out of scope, but fun to share with fellow Riesling enthusiasts. Level approximately 4.5 cm below the cork, which was extracted in one piece with the Durand. Extremely youthful colour for age, spiced peach, mint, delicately sweet palate, seal wax, impressive intensity and power, only slightly dry on the finish, citrus, very good persistence. Much better than the bottle in May 2024.

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• 2013 Julian Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  An extra bottle from the Rieslinghuis' cellar. Super juicy and dancing, fresh and a bit of sucrosité, flowers and slate, apple and peach, concentrated, intensity without weight, citrus, flowing finish, excellent length. Supreme elegance.

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