Sasi's Birthday

A wonderful lunch to celebrate a dear friend. Most usually, we had an equal number of dry whites (if you could the champers), reds and sweets. The later are rare in our circles these days.

• 2013 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Millésimé Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Really lovely. This was a light rose gold colour in the glass. We probably should have decanted it, because it took a bit of time to open. When it did though, it was really nice. The nose, which was tight and flinty at first, blossomed to show dancing notes of white fruit, cherry flesh and a little whiff of something that reminded me of sugarcane, along with some shades of white meat shades and then little aromas of flinty mineral and a little dash of spice. Complex and quite alluring. The palate was lovely too. Full and powerful, yet also beautifully cut and defined - the way this was build reminded brought to mind a many faceted diamond, with a lovely clarity shining through its flavours of red apple, brown honeyed pears and cherry flesh, all leading into a full, layered finish with just a little touch of honey and a little kiss of spice at the end. The wine might have been a tad heavy if not for the lovely dollops of mouthwatering acidity at the sides, which helped it all come into a beautiful focus and balance. A very nice, characterful champagne. Quite the stunner from Cedric Bouchard.

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• 2001 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  I really liked this. It had such a lovely Meursault nose - creamy, buttery scents with an undertone of flinty minerality, all wrapped around a core of ripe apple fruit, and then just that whiff of sweet vanilla oak at the edges. Expressive and attractive, and very sunny in its aspect. The palate was rather sleeker than the nose suggested, speaking more eloquently of the cooler 2001 vintage in fact, with bright citrusy acid cutting through otherwise plump, fleshy flavours of sweet lemons and ripe apples, all leading into a superbly long, grippy finish, where the wine's flinty minerality came out really nicely. Tons of power here, some sweetness, but all nicely balanced and in focus. A bit old school, with a whiff of sweet oak floating about, but this was a nicely complete wine that gave a lot of pleasure. A truly outstanding village wine, and always a standout in Lafon's portfolio. At peak now if you can find a bottle in good condition.

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• 2011 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Really solid. This had an arresting nose, with lots of flinty mineral laced through rather rich aromas of ripe white fruit, sweet cream and white chocolate. With time, a really chalky mineral streak started showing as well. The palate was big and muscular, very broad shouldered, with a wide mouthful of ripe red apples and sweet lemons, again lined with that lovely mineral streak driving into a long, powerful finish. Superb stuff - powerful yet really balanced. Still very young though, with some flavours still a bit understated, but this had tons of potential to it. It probably needs another 5-6 years.

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• 2010 Jean-Marc Millot Grands-Echezeaux 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  I am constantly surprised by how lovely these JM Millot GE bottles are when served blind, and this one was no exception. It had that super perfumed nose that is so characteristic of this bottling, with a lovey bloom of rose petals floating about sweet blushes of red cherry, and then patted down with a little touch of earth, stone and spice. What a wonderful bouquet. The palate was perhaps a hint sterner than the nose would suggest. The blushing red fruit and floral character was there, but this was backed up with a firmer spine of fine minerality and a layer of velvety tannins leading into a long, slightly dryer finish, where one was met by a touch of woody bramble. Absolutely delicious though. So balanced too, with wonderfully integrated acidity lending a nice freshness to the whole proceedings. A wine of purity, elegance and finesse, this had a beautiful clarity to it. The finish was perhaps the one weaker point, but that aside, it was absolutely lovely. Starting to drink well now, but this should continue to hold and improve over the next decade or so.

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• 1999 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Very nice indeed. I last had this with Laurent Ponsot more than a decade ago. At that time, it was as much about potential as it was about immediate enjoyment. This bottle has developed nicely though, and it just starting to come into a nice spot for drinking. From first bat, it had a lovely, classic Burgundy nose, with savoury notes of loamy earth and meat, then plums and blackberries, and finally little drifts of spice, orange peel and some wilting florals. The palate was lovely too. Quiet, subtle, yet really authoritative, with a quiet strength to its flavours of plums and blackberries, earth and spice, all framed with fine, firm, chewy tannins and beautifully integrated acidity. Dense, powerful, strong, yet fresh and beautifully balanced, with a long, lively tail that stretched away on the back palate - this showed what the best of the 1999 reds are becoming. Bravo.

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• 2010 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Charmes-Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  This is another bottle I have numerous times over the past decade or so, and it has always given a whole lot of enjoyment. This time was no exception - it was just such a very pretty wine. This bottle had a lovely nose, with sweet florals, stony mineral and red cherries all making a lovely, perfumed bouquet. The palate was really nice too, clean, clear, pure, with a bright expression of red cherries and berries laced with little bit of spice and mineral; all lithe and light footed as it danced itself into a pure, clear, long finish, with flecks of meat and mineral, earth and spice. Unlike some 2010 Grand Crus, which still seem to need time, this has come together pretty well, and is already drinking quite nicely. A few more years in the bottle will not hurt though.

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• 2017 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Clearly a little too young, but this was a good wine, and a very nice way to segue into the sweets. On the nose, it showed perfumed notes of chamomile and wildflowers, white peach and spice, and just little hints of mineral and earthy funk, all eloquently speaking of the Wurzgarten terroir. The palate was still sweet with baby fat, but felt nicely balanced, with peach and apples carried along on some kumquat-like acidity into a long and fresh finish that spoke of orange blossom and honey. It was a touch fizzy there. Altogether very nice, but with its best years decades ahead of it yet.

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• 2009 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  What a knockout of a wine. Still a baby in absolute terms, but already giving so much pleasure right out of the bottle. It had a beautiful nose - honey and chamomile, pear and caramel apples, all sprinkled with a little spice and mineral. A really lovely bouquet. Wonderful on the palate too. What struck me at first sip was just how perfectly balanced this wine was. It was rich, creamy and soft - just a luxurious glide of velvet in the mouth, with a quiet complexity showing in flavours of apricots, white peaches and sweet apples, gently drizzled with a touch of honey. All the flavours were just held in this insanely effortless balance though. I would call this bright, or juicy, or transparent - but it had just that pitch perfect balance lent to it by beautiful soft acidity reminiscent of the sweetest, ripest lemons. Great finish too, with apricots and lemons and honey just lingering and lingering in the mouth. A stunning wine, and one made to last for just about forever. It is so good now though - if I had any, it would be hard to keep my hands off them.

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• 1980 Mas Amiel Maury Vintage 93 Points

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Maury

  This tasted different, a bit more complex from when drank from the giant 70 litre glass bonbon, and it probably showed the better for it. The nose was quite Madeira-like, with notes of honey and dried figs, sweet monk fruit, and then drifts of mahogany and penicillin. The palate was fresh and lively and very pure, with luscious flavours of fig juice and plums slathered with dark honey, all nicely balanced enough so that this never felt cloying in spite of having quite a bit of sweet depth. It then grew more savoury at the finish, showing some notes of earth and spice, some dried mushroom accents, and hints of dark chocolate hints, all coming up alongside the pure dark fruited tones. Very enjoyable.

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