For Bud Jones QSM 1943-2024 (as he planned it!)

A dinner party that had been planned for this date by a dear friend of mine who passed away a couple of weeks before the event. The party became a celebration of his life. He would have loved the two red wines - right up his alley! RIP, my friend.

• NV Louis Roederer Champagne Collection 243 90 Points

  France, Champagne

  Refined, beautiful proportion, creamy, elegant, and balanced. This bottle feels like it is maturing nicely.

  Post a Comment / 2 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• NV Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve 89 Points

  France, Champagne

  Similar to the Roederer drunk directly before, perhaps a touch bigger and less elegant, but very close qualitatively. Excellent wine.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• NV Gonzalez-Byass Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Del Duque Aged 30 Years Very Old Amontillado VORS 94 Points

  Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry

  Aged in a cold cellar for a number of years before opening, this was stunning - soft, saline, nutty, with a gorgeous dry finish and a satin texture. Huge depth and complexity. The age character of the wine adds to the sense of completeness.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2009 François Chidaine Vouvray Sec Les Argiles 92 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Fabulous. Herbal and mineral. Absolutely clean and vividly varietal. Reasonable residual sugar builds body in the palate and in the finish, although the wine finishes dry, thanks to the acids, and intensifying the fruit. Still straw in colour. Just a baby, but absolutely approachable.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2000 Château Pavie 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

  Absolutely stunning St. Emilion in a massive interpretation. Reticent nose of black Doris plum skin, perfect oak handling, very dense palate, that is layered, if slightly opaque(certainly compared to the 2002 Harlan drunk next to it). Opulent and ostentatious, this has a rich and lingering finish and is drinking well at the moment, but there is absolutely no rush. As per its varietal makeup, this is richer than the Harlan, but not as long or refined.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2002 Harlan Estate 98 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Drunk in a pairing with the opulent Pavie 2000, this was absolutely first rate. Clearly new world in terms of its richness and ripeness of expression, but the overriding impression is a deeply expressive example of varietal integrity. This is essentially a perfect expression of Cabernet, with blackcurrant, crushed leaf, mineral, and framing oak. The balance, while huge, is actually extraordinarily refined and the finish is worthy of comparison with first growths from great vintages. Next to the Pavie, it comes across very much in line with its varietal makeup - less rich, but more expressive (less opaque). The finish is extraordinary as well. Absolutely one if the great Harlan’s, and mikes ahead of the (outstanding) 1999 drunk a couple of weeks before. It is drinking well, but based on this showing, there should be some positive development to come (unlike the 1999, which may have peaked). Perfection in time is certainly on the cards, although I would not object to anyone calling this perfect right now.

  Read 1 Comment / Post a Comment / 4 people found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• 1994 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Vin de Paille 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Very developed in colour (very brown), this looks like a Sherry. There is a touch of oxidation on the nose, although the palate is still vibrant, redolent of sultanas and caramel. It is a wine of huge personality. It is a dessert wine that does not look to botrytis for character, and the clean, pure aspect of the raising fruit is attractive, coming across as clean. I suspect this was better 10 to 15 years ago, but it is certainly not drying out!

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Passarounds

Roast mushroom broth

Blue cod ceviche

Slow cooked lamb with preserved lemon and green peppercorns

Zucchini alla scapece

Luke’s coffee gelato with rhubarb and orange compote