La Paulée 2022

A fun day out that is Burgundy-centric although all the wines are poured blind. Later some of the notes become brief as I was walking aorund trying anything I hadn't had before!

• NV Lanson Champagne Brut 89 Points

  France, Champagne

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow with fine bubbles. Aromas of warmed croissant, minerals, Granny Smith green apple and a touch of herb. A richer entry, more Gala apple than GS, there is a citrus element and a touch of spice. Whilst elegant it lacked mid-palate depth despite a reasonable finish. Fruity, quite linear.

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• 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Medium lemon/straw in colour. Fresh aromas of mineral, chalk, and oyster shell gently open to light peach and a smidgeon of oak and shortcrust pastry.
  The wine enters the palate with a mouth-cleansing fresh acidity tinged with apple, chalk, and quarry dust. Linear, intense yet with some flesh in the mid-palate, this is showing really well, finishing with a fabulous dry exit.

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• 2018 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow. Aromas of frangipane, minerals, toast, grilled pineapple and nectarine. A fresh, expressive entry with lots of white peach and nectarine, complemented by toast and wafer biscuits - like sliced peaches on toast! Youthful and bright with a rich texture, the wine has excellent concentration balanced by a bracing, mineral-edged acidity. Needs time to complex.

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• 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light golden yellow. Fragrant nose of at first reduction with inflatable swimming pool and bicycle inner tube, but not offensive. Smoke and crushed stones start to emerge, as does some light lemon.
  The entry is fresh and direct, mid-bodied with a chiseled acidity but flatlines across the mid-palate lacking depth. It feels clenched, saline abstemious - certainly rather subdued for PYCM. Rain-affected?
  Soils are calcaire and pebbly. sourced from the base of the hill.

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• 1995 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières Cuvée Baudot 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind):Mid to deep orange. The bouquet offers orange and barley sugar notes. It feels deep and ripe, fruited with lovely intensity and purpose, backed up by a crisp acidity and wonderful depth filled with lots of butterscotch, spice, and barley sugar. A dry chalky finish adds some edges. It is showing very well for its age.

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• 2015 Jean-Claude Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  (Partially Blind): Pale yellow. Gentle fragrant notes of toast, white peach, citrus flowers, and Filo pastry. The palate is cut and thrust as the chiseled acidity zig-zags along it. Plenty of ripe stone fruits fill the core, as do lime curd and lemon tart components dusted in sweet spice. Rich in texture yet linear in shape, the wine is pure, delicate, and focused, if not that complex. Finishes a little hot.

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• 2007 Blain-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow. Far too reductive with inner tube and rubber notes monopolising the nose. With vigorous shaking and time, notes of lemon rind and sea kelp peek out. Substantial in structure the wine has some intensity to it but not always for the right reasons. Challenging!

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• 2006 Louis Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Intense light yellow. Penetrating aromas of wet chalk, white flowers and white peach towards nectarine. With a light, dynamic gait, this ballerina of a wine dances and skips over the palate with incredible intensity. Layers of flavours, vigorous acidity, stone fruits, chalk, and quarry stone, add a fiery, engaging side. Wonderfully balanced, there is mid-palate density, yet the length isn't super long; it is slightly tapering. Perhaps I was being overly demanding!

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• 2014 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow. Aromas of inner tube at first before the crushed stone, light toast, minerals and lemon blossom. Quite fragrant as it opened, which was interesting for a CC Granc Cru. A mineral-led entry, the wine is robust, full-bodied and intense with a stony, flinty texture, juicy lemon-edged acidity, and a fabulous gait as it strolls along purposefully. A little austerity that appeals to me, the wine reflects citrus notes, spice, white nectarine, and sea salt towards a tight finish that feels still buttoned but may promise more in time. Impressive length.

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• 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne 97 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow. Stony, gentle spice and orchard fruit aromas with direction and focus; on the palate, this is chiselled with racy acidity, rich texture, broadening out the mid-palate, and precision tooled or more sculpted like a marble statue! It feels quite abstemious at this point but should mellow with age. Penetration, length, and fantastic concentration—this is a cracker!

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• 2007 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind):Mid yellow. Plenty of yellow fruits on the nose with some mineral and almonds.
  The entry is penetrating and full-bodied with a rich texture wine that manages to imbue a tight, intense mid-palate of mineral-edged acidity with wet stone, nut, dry spice and a lightly floral high note leading to a long finish that shows honey on the back palate. Wonderful balance.

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• 2016 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow. Focused aromas of struck flint, crushed stone, and light toasty oak. Bright acidity on entry with clean lines. This is a robust, full-bodied wine with a light creamy oatmeal underbelly, notes of rock scree, and that meaty texture and depth. Incredible penetration and extended length, this is showing well now but would also benefit with further time in the bottle.
  CC faces west and is the only GC to do so, thus getting many more hours of sunshine than others. 300+ metres elevation.

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• 2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Medium green-yellow. Heady, pure fragrant-edged aromas of fennel fronds, minerals, white peach, and sweet spice dusting.
  A sexy wine with a tremendous breadth of flavour, drawing you close with that melee of stone fruit flesh, Yellow apple puree and mineral rock scree layered with cinnamon & nutmeg. Excellent concentration, retaining delicacy and poise with underlying creamy lees, the wine has fabulous with real penetration and endures to a long, satisfying finish. (Third Time lucky is seems with this wine!)

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• 2016 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light yellow. Lifted notes of Griottes cherry, red plum, and red berry fruits. Fairly intense, the palate is dense with thick extracted tannins, yielding a slightly pomace note and grappa character yet retaining shape with a snappy acidity and decent length. There is a little sour cherry on the close, this more muscular example has impressive depth.

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• 2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): A simmering nose of iron oxide, mineral, yellow cherry savoury nuances.
  The entry skips to a lovely gait before a dry, grippy tannin arrives that borders on greener notes and a mineral, steel bar texture. Very savoury, with zero sweetness, this is dry as a powder keg, a sense of dustiness in the wine. It certainly has punch, muscle and power and lasts long in the mouth. At times, it felt like one was tasting the wine in a duststorm! Certainly a no-frills, unadorned NSG, more intellectual than pleasurable.

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• 2015 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): It is pale ruby in colour. It has spicy aromas of Griotte cherries, Sous Bois, Blood orange, liquorice, and paprika. Medium in the body, the acid is lively, whilst the tannins are fairly grippy. The mid-palate offers a sour cherry towards cranberry note with some spice but feels challenging wine as it warms up with noticeable spicy edges that prickle the mid-palate, leading to a firm, farewell.

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• 2005 Domaine Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  (Partially Blind): Light ruby in colour. Lovely tertiary notes, with sous bois, undergrowth and autumn leaves. Intense palate, vibrant acidity with soft silky tannins punctuated with sweet Bing cherry and a touch of baking spice yet not overly complex.

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• 2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Bright ruby colour. Note of Sous Bois, iron fillings, orange peel, dried cherry, and some blue flowers. The palate is showing some age with noted ferruginous qualities, rich texture, lively acid, and firm, powdery tannins with a surprisingly dense mid-palate more Beaune-like than Chambolle. Lacks the light lift of Chambolle, but still has a wonderful gait and depth. Excellent knit and a long tail this is a nicely aged Burgundy.

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• 2006 Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Put into Grammerly: Light ruby in colour. A fresh and lifted and fragrant nose with dried autumn leaves, Sous Bois and plum. Clearly, with some age, the wine is savoury orientated, intense on the mid-palate with plenty of material on the mid-palate giving some sweeter dark cherry and black plum fruits dusted in cayenne spice and some iron fllings. Powder tannins and a vibrant acidity give structure. I found the wine a little unwieldy without the deftness and flow of a top example, perhaps a little chewy almost and the tannins did build a little.

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• 2014 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Put into Grammerly: Light ruby in colour. Wonderful fragrant nose with alpine flowers, red and black berry fruits, minerals and some tilled soil. A long, well structured palate with a smooth texture, compact tannins, intense flavours, and a smart, poised finish.

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• 2002 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Pale ruby in colour. A bouquet of morello cherry, Bing cherry pie filling, tilled soil, and dry spice, almost a mint quality. A sweet entry leads to a decent mid-palate fruit, marked sour cherry acidity, with smooth to crushed velvety tannin. Light to medium bodied with some fair concentration, quite delicate and long on the exit.

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• 2015 Domaine Jacques Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Santenots 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light ruby. Aromas of soft, ripe juicy plums, Bing and Morello cherries, toasty oak and sweet spices. Gorgeous, plush entry this is a succulent wine yet has precision, with no extra fat, fine integrated power fine tannins with a sour cherry twist, and a long finish. Smart wine.

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• 2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light garnet. A bouquet of cola tonic, Sois Bois, undergrowth, and tertiary elements. The palate is quite fresh and fabulous juicy acidity, a smooth, supple core, and sandy, fully resolved tannins. Felt more of a cooler year with damp undergrowth over dry. Lovely intensity it feels more horizontal than vertical. Long finish.

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• 2016 Bouchard Père et Fils Echezeaux 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  (Partially Blind): Light ruby. Charming, fresh aromas of bright black juicy plum halves, Morello cherry, wood smoke and a dusting of sweet spice. Intense, this is still very youthful and vibrant with a palate showing freshness, and tightness with a lovely acidic backbone. Finely structured and detailed with excellent concentration with long-lasting finish.

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