My First Look at 2007 Germans

As usual, an informative, beautifully arranged tasting at this most quirky shrine to German wines.

• 2007 Fritz Haag Riesling

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Pale. Floral, lime skin nose. Light, very good, and I actually preferred this to the Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett.

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• 2007 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Nahe

  Light yellow. Tropical fruit aromas. Oily for a Kabinett but flavor fades and seems a little low in acid.

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• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Pale, greenish color. Very spicy nose. Vanilla tones, rich, in fact, a tad fat for this level wine.

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• 2007 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light weight, mineral, typical Kabinett weight and style if not as flavorful as the Haag noted above. Pleasing acidity here.

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• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Pale. The aromas lean toward the green end of the spectrum-sour plum and lime. Off dry, rich but balanced, long, and delicious. My favorite to this point.

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• 2007 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Nahe

  Pale with citrus and brown spices on the nose. More weight than the Haag right before it. Off dry, peach fruit, mineral finish. Full of interest.

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• 2007 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Very pale, not much aromatically, but terrific tension between lively aciidity and richness which is almost at the Auslese level. Perhaps more so than any other wine today, this demonstrated the thrilling balancing act that is at the heart of German wine.

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• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light yellow. Spicy and a step down in concentration from the von Beulwitz that preceded it, but fine and quite delicious.

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• 2007 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Nahe

  Lighter weight wine with distinctive orange blossom nose. Not as sweet as others. This just dances across the palate with its delicacy and balance.

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• 2007 Weingut Prinz Hallgartener Jungfer Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Rheingau

  Limpid, not very forthcoming. Light, minimal sweetness, somewhat one dimensional right now, but it is a classic, chalky dimension that is good.

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• 2007 Schmitges Erdener Prälat Riesling Spätlese **

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light yellow. Again, greener aromatics. Some lime and citrus provides focus for this rich, round wine with significant sweetness.

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• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Light green. Floral and seemingly lighter than the Brauneberger Juffer Spatlese. Good but could use more flavor intensity.

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• 2007 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Auslese Alte Reben

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Sweeter than the Haag that came before it, but I did not find the acidity to provide balance.

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• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Marvelous complexity already with forest floor and honey in addition to the great fruit. Intensely spicy and magical balance between the cut of the acidity and underlying richness. Great potential and the wine of the tasting for me.

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• 2007 Schmitges Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese *

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Lighter in body than the wine before it, this had a tremendous entry with terrific flavor intensity for its vanishingly low weight. This is not maintained through the finish, though, which falls off.

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A very positive introduction to the vintage with a couple of high points. Based on this sample, 2007 is a vintage of average rather than high acidity. I'd be interested in trying more Kabinetts, since on the whole, I found them a bit disappointing compared to the hype that is circulating about 2007 being a great Kabinett vintage. Of the producers represented, I have most experience with Fritz Haag; while these wines provided some excitement, there was a surprising degree of variability.