Terroir-istes International - France, Burgundy, Corton Charlemagne
Cape Town - Las Cases
Tasted Monday, September 4, 2023 by rikipedia with 69 views
Introduction
A dip into the world of Corton-Charlemagne to wrap up the series on White Burgundy with a few Savigny les Beaune. Corton-Charlemagne stands as one of France's most distinguished Grand Cru white wines, with origins dating back to the 8th century reign of Emperor Charlemagne himself. Legend tells us the Emperor favoured the white wines from this hillside—a preference that would shape centuries of viticultural tradition through monastic stewardship.
The appellation's creation, however, was not without controversy. When officially established in the 1930s and 40s, tensions arose between the villages of Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses over vineyard designations. The south-facing "Le Charlemagne" vineyard in Aloxe-Corton contested the inclusion of the more westerly-oriented "En Charlemagne" vineyard under the Corton-Charlemagne name. While a 1934 judgment initially sided with Aloxe, the final appellation decree in 1942 ultimately favoured Pernand. Today, two white Grand Cru appellations technically exist—Corton-Charlemagne and Charlemagne—though the distinction is rarely emphasized. An interesting extract is that with climate change the Pernand side may just be the way forward as it ripens slower being less sun-exposed.
This exceptional terroir spans high-elevation vineyards across Aloxe-Corton, Ladoix-Serrigny, and Pernand-Vergelesses, with approximately 57 hectares dedicated to producing Corton-Charlemagne. The south- and southwest-facing slopes capture optimal sunlight, moderating the region's cool continental climate to achieve perfect ripeness in its Chardonnay grapes.
The wines display remarkable diversity depending on their precise location. Vineyards with southerly exposure, require early harvesting, while western slopes in Pernand-Vergelesses might be picked a week or more later. Yet all share a distinctive minerality derived from the limestone and marl soils.
Stylistically, Corton-Charlemagne is robust and structured, displaying linear precision rather than the rounded opulence found in Montrachet. The best examples possess a stoniness behind the fruit, creating wines that quiver on the palate. Producers approach this canvas differently—Domaine Bonneau du Martray emphasizes citrus, pear and a steely core through partial oak fermentation, while Louis Latour crafts richer, barrel-aged interpretations with creamy textures and notes of hazelnut and brioche.
The plantings primarily feature Entav clone 548, complemented by newer 1000-series clones, including 1066. Some vineyards incorporate Entav 809 (Chardonnay musqué) to add complexity and subtle anise character to their blends, creating wines that evolve beautifully from youthful intensity to honeyed complexity with age.
A great Corton-Charlemagne doesn't merely impress—it electrifies, sending shivers down the spine with its perfect balance of power, precision, and that unmistakable sense of place that only centuries of tradition can create.
2022 Iona Monopole Pinot Noir Kroon 91 Points
South Africa, Cape South Coast, Elgin
Aromas of strawberry, fresh earth, minerals and crushed stones. The entry has vibrant acidity and a firm blade-like texture. It has cherry stone components and a touch of sour plum, Mirabelle, and cherry flesh, but it errs on the leaner side. Medium in length, the finish is long with leathery tannins. It's still quite tight, but it has all the ingredients; to open with time in the bottle.
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