Medocs at Reading Lido

I enjoyed all the wines and the quality was fairly uniform, reflected in the fact that almost every wine made into someone's top three. It was great to try many of the classics and I give special thanks to those who generously shared them. If I were to be picky, these were wines I found it hard to fall in love with, even though I could see their qualities and they would be good wines to track over an evening. Ever present was that slight stiff and stern quality that many Bordeaux left bankers have, with the exception - for me - of the Pichon Lalande.

The food was good and location unusual but pretty cool too.

• 2019 Château de Rayne-Vigneau Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux

  Rather enjoyable. Grassy nose - very Sauvignon blanc - but none of it's vices. Palate is a little grippy and pithy. Quote a lot of acidity but handled well. Lean, focussed and energetic. A good start.

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• 1982 Château Palmer

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Some browning. A touch murky. Quieter nose (some violet?) than the other 82s (Batailley, Leoville LasCases). Classy and sophisticated though. Palate is quite "exotic" and plush - some spices? I found this the hardest to read of the three, and so enigmatic, despite plaudits around me. Unscoreable to me, so NR.

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• 1982 Château Batailley 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Clear bricking. Touch more translucent than Palmer, a touch browner too. Some bottle stink but soon blows off. Then spice and soaring pencil notes on the nose. Palate is plummy and red fruited with a slightly drying and dusty finish. The lightest of the three 82s, but that's no criticism. Not quite the intensity of the Palmer or LLC. Later a lovely herbal nose. The most complex of the three and my favourite to drink.

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• 1982 Château Léoville Las Cases 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Most ruby of the three and a bright shimmering quality. There is a deep, brooding sense on the nose, with a touch of greenness lurking. In the mouth, there is some blueberry, fountain pen ink. Getting softer with air. A long finish. This bottle seemed a little curmudgeonly and just still not quite ready. Classy and long though.

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• 1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Complete gear change for this flight. Much richer nose; some caramel. Lighter that than the Baron, with a silky & suave mouthfeel. Note of plum, aromatic decaying leaves, re fruits leather. Again that texture that just caresses. Lovely stuff and the only wine that really charmed tonight. My WOTN.

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• 1995 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  That richness again, after the 82s. Fruitier, denser. Lacks the airy top notes of the 82s. On the palate, the is sturdier, more muscular. Some tannins still. A slightly drier and shorter finish that the Lalande. Enjoyable. Group WOTN.

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• 1998 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Solid cassis nose. Quite rich too. Some green / tomato leaf and black pepper and later a touch of lavender. Pretty complex - fair amount of interest here. Enjoyed this.

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• 2000 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  More going on than the 2004 alongside. A touch darker on the rim. Some green capsicum but this adds interest. The palate is very clean and very "Claretty" with cigarbox, mahogany, black tea. Getting more weightless with air. Still on the way up. Notably better than a bottle from 4 years ago. Very decent stuff.

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• 2004 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Very upfront cassis. Distinct coconut milk & vanilla nose (cream soda?). Rioja-esque, someone suggests. On the palate: a touch more dilute than the 2000 alongside. More 'made' as a wine. Still feels young, even after 20 years.

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An interesting and educational evening. The phases of evolution across the three flights was surprisingly stark with distinct characteristics. The vintage character was also distinct. Thank you again to my fellow diners and oenophiles.