2013 Burgundy check-in

Felt as though it was probably time to check in on the 2013s - until tonight, I think the 21st-century vintage whose reds I was least familiar with. Happily we were able to organise for some 2013 Champagne and whites, too.

• 2013 Vazart-Coquart Champagne Grand Cru Grand Bouquet 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  First time trying this producer and I hope not the last, as the wine was excellent. Immediately a lovely ease to the nose, with some sourdough depth as well as exciting pops of ginger and sherbert. Complex and intense yet satisfyingly smooth on the palate, tasting variously of lime cordial, orange peel and apple juice, wrapped into a neat package that had good length. Sufficiently rich that I probably wouldn't have guessed it was a BdB, or from 2013. Yum.

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• 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  This was brilliant. Real intensity of fruit on the nose, accompanied by some tasteful reduction. Crisp, elegant and seamless on the palate, with a lovely intermingling of lemon zest, vanilla and biscuit, and a super finish about which my notes just say "BAM"! Was definitely ready, but not by much - there's still plenty of grip on the midpalate. Runaway WOTN.

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• 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  Less intense and more biscuit on the nose than the '13 Charmes, and also had some spearmint. Perhaps slightly musty too, although after about 45 minutes in the glass that seemed to dissipate, leaving something more golden and honeyed. Decent length but felt slightly clenched, and so dry it was verging on bitter. Score is an average of the first and last sip.

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• 2013 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Such a gorgeous nose - really fine and enveloping, with piquant red fruit, a touch of game and a waft of rose, certainly complex and enticing. Also really nice on the palate, which had gentle spice to season the fruit, a pleasing level of tannin, and a long, appealing finish. Easy yet also intellectual in feel, and in a great place. My and the group's #2 wine tonight.

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• 2013 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Smelled fab, with gorgeous deep cherry, jewel-like wild strawberry, smoke and an overall air of bottle development. Noticeably more rustic than the Duroche, with grippy purple fruit and crisp cranberryish acidity (but this wasn't at all as searing as I'd feared from the 2013s). Relaxed with air and became increasingly sexy, upon which I increased my score by a point.

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• 2013 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Lots going on when sniffed: deep berry fruit as well as shards of something bright and brisk, smoke, hedgerow, a touch of meat. Clean and lithe on the palate, but with sufficient depth of juicy fruit to remain in balance, though a little tight towards the finish. That said, this was pleasingly ready, food-friendly and a pleasure to drink.

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• 2013 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Deep, musky and very aromatic nose, with a rosehip scent; it almost came across as candied, but avoided that and was universally enjoyed around the table. Very concentrated on the palate, with lingering notes of sour cherry, pomegranate molasses, burnt ends, underbrush and cherry drops - the wine would benefit from another few years of unwinding, though it was already impressively enjoyable and ended up voted my and the group's #3 wine tonight.

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• 2013 Maison Roche de Bellene Grands-Echezeaux 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Sensual, red-fruited nose with some spice. Seamless on the palate, and already drinking well, with lots of crisp, pretty red fruit as well as hints of hedgerow. A lovely wine, but not obviously the line-up's grand cru (and the only wine not to feature in anyone's top 3, other than the Chassagne).

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• 2013 Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis

  In great condition even though pretty earthy and well-resolved. An airy, somewhat green (stemmy?) nose that became sweeter with air. Sleekly drinkable, well-chiselled, and red-fruited; I didn't find this as compelling as some of the other reds, but objectively it was still really lovely.

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• 2013 Le Grappin Beaune 1er Cru Boucherottes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  A brief note based on a post-prandial half glass from the other table. Silky mouthfeel and delicious fruit, perhaps in a slighter darker register than most of the earlier reds, even if the wine was at the less substantial end of the spectrum. Very good again - no duds tonight!

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This is the 11th time we've done a Burgundy vintage horizontal at Noize, and I think tonight's dinner exceeded expectations by the highest margin so far: belying the vintage's reputation, both our table and the other had no duff wines, and plenty of joyous ones. The wines were more aromatic and fun than the '12s, and more substantial and consistent than the '11s.

2013s are easy (and reasonable value) to backfill and seem to be enjoyable, well-balanced and sufficiently serious - great news for us drinkers.