Lovely intensity on the nose, flowers and grapefruit; the Sémillon component delivers a relatively soft and ripe palate but with lively acidity underneath from the Sauvignon Blanc, hint of passion fruit; smoky minerality on the finish, good length. Good value.
Magnum. Intense colour, almost fluorescent green-tinged buttercup yellow; lifted and primary nose, intense and classical varietal expression, spicy minerality, aromatic green herbs, good depth; lovely volume on the palate, firm but calm acidity, gentle bitters, delicately creamy texture, barely visible oak; complete finish, slightly yeasty, good resonance and length. Quite a technical wine, but very well done.
Organic and biodynamic viticulture. Second vintage from this 1 hectare plot in Polisy. A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, fermented and aged in wood (part new), Lot No. 19JI, disgorged 24 March 2022, no dosage. Vinous, mildly oxidative, rich and powerful style, green and red apple, floral notes, cherries on the finish, steely acidity, whiff of vanilla, very pure and hugely energetic, excellent resonance and length.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
A bit dusty on the nose, tertiary development, slightly stemmy; still quite tannic on the palate, fine weight and concentration, authoritative but not really exciting or refined; spicy finish, impressive length. Will age further, will soften, but I doubt that it will improve much.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Very different from the bottle tasted two years ago, much more expressive. Beautifully lifted nose, cool but ripe style, Vosne spice, silky texture, lovely freshness, flowing but structured, well integrated tannins, harmonious and elegant, spicy finish, meaty evolution, excellent length.
Very different from the bottle included in my 18 vintage Landonne vertical two years ago. Fragrant, subtle and elegant, spicy, floral, minerally energy, light on its feet, silky texture, almost Burgundian finesse, sandy tannins, gentle and flowing finish. Much more evolved than two years ago, far less power, almost feels like a different wine. Retaste.
Deep and dense and concentrated, still almost completely primary, everything in the right place, everything in proportion, an essence of the Couronne, elegant and harmonious in spite of all the power, seductive and sensual, tannins wrapped in flesh, excellent length. Stunning, hands down WOTN. May well merit 100 points in 10-20 years’ time. Chef d'oeuvre.
Strikes a lovely balance between richness and freshness, bright cassis fruit, leafy and peppery notes, transparent and precise, subtle and elegant, starting to show some evolution, papery tannins, long and flowing finish. Approachable now.
Half bottle. Lovely rôti on the nose, candied fruit, spicy oak; off-dry palate, good volume but little sweetness left, firm bitters; relatively dry finish, pear fruit, slightly short. There must be better bottles.
2023 Château Guiraud 'G' Sec 91 Points
France, Bordeaux
Lovely intensity on the nose, flowers and grapefruit; the Sémillon component delivers a relatively soft and ripe palate but with lively acidity underneath from the Sauvignon Blanc, hint of passion fruit; smoky minerality on the finish, good length. Good value.
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2020 Cantina Terlan Sauvignon Terlano Quarz 92 Points
Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano
Magnum. Intense colour, almost fluorescent green-tinged buttercup yellow; lifted and primary nose, intense and classical varietal expression, spicy minerality, aromatic green herbs, good depth; lovely volume on the palate, firm but calm acidity, gentle bitters, delicately creamy texture, barely visible oak; complete finish, slightly yeasty, good resonance and length. Quite a technical wine, but very well done.
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NV Amaury Beaufort Le Jardinot XIX Brut Nature 93 Points
France, Champagne
Organic and biodynamic viticulture. Second vintage from this 1 hectare plot in Polisy. A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, fermented and aged in wood (part new), Lot No. 19JI, disgorged 24 March 2022, no dosage. Vinous, mildly oxidative, rich and powerful style, green and red apple, floral notes, cherries on the finish, steely acidity, whiff of vanilla, very pure and hugely energetic, excellent resonance and length.
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2005 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
A bit dusty on the nose, tertiary development, slightly stemmy; still quite tannic on the palate, fine weight and concentration, authoritative but not really exciting or refined; spicy finish, impressive length. Will age further, will soften, but I doubt that it will improve much.
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2005 Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Very different from the bottle tasted two years ago, much more expressive. Beautifully lifted nose, cool but ripe style, Vosne spice, silky texture, lovely freshness, flowing but structured, well integrated tannins, harmonious and elegant, spicy finish, meaty evolution, excellent length.
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2009 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 93 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Very different from the bottle included in my 18 vintage Landonne vertical two years ago. Fragrant, subtle and elegant, spicy, floral, minerally energy, light on its feet, silky texture, almost Burgundian finesse, sandy tannins, gentle and flowing finish. Much more evolved than two years ago, far less power, almost feels like a different wine. Retaste.
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2009 Château L'Evangile 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Deep and dense and concentrated, still almost completely primary, everything in the right place, everything in proportion, an essence of the Couronne, elegant and harmonious in spite of all the power, seductive and sensual, tannins wrapped in flesh, excellent length. Stunning, hands down WOTN. May well merit 100 points in 10-20 years’ time. Chef d'oeuvre.
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2009 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 93 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
Strikes a lovely balance between richness and freshness, bright cassis fruit, leafy and peppery notes, transparent and precise, subtle and elegant, starting to show some evolution, papery tannins, long and flowing finish. Approachable now.
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1996 Château Suduiraut 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Half bottle. Lovely rôti on the nose, candied fruit, spicy oak; off-dry palate, good volume but little sweetness left, firm bitters; relatively dry finish, pear fruit, slightly short. There must be better bottles.
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