Pig Roast

Okay, I'll start. Keep in mind, I was too lazy to take notes, so this is fiction, as usual; and I know I left a few out. Many thanks to Brad for setting this up, and to everyone for a lovely evening.

• 1999 Famille Peillot Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu Cuvée Buster Altesse de Montagnieu

  France, Bugey, Roussette du Bugey Montagnieu

  This has freshened up quite a bit in the past two years and eaten whatever sugar was left, showing more minerality and perhaps a touch less on the floral side, which dominated in its youth. The color has begun to deepen, but only a bit. I found the aromatics a bit timid at this stage, but the palate was very nice with citrus and rocks in a very pure, transparent frame.

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• 2001 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

  I liked this quite a lot. It is remarkably different from the 1999, which is big and fat. This has much better framing acidity. The color has turned and it is quite full on the palate, but the acidity keeps it nicely focussed. Drink or hold.

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• 2005 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Brilliant as ever, this is a pretty full version, drinking well.

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• 1979 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Same as the last bottle. Amazingly fresh for such an old wine, but not a great deal of interest either. I much prefer the 1990.

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• 2004 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Lovely floral aromatics, medium pale but good intensity. This stuff is good.

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• 1995 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Developing nicely, and this was from magnum. Medium body, clean, black fruits, earth, olive.

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• 1995 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Drinking nicely now, this is at plateau with no immediate danger of falling off. I liked this better than I expected to given the notes here. It had an intense nose of cracked pepper and a medium-saturated fruit profile. It showed some wood but not too much for me and is rounding into form.

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