Healthy light yellow, retains some green. Of the 3 bottles I've tried over the past year or so, this was the first with obvious sulfur. As has happened with other bottles from this producer, an initial impression of some fat quickly gave way to lean, classic Chablis, with strong oyster shell, tonic water, and lime zest aromas and flavors. Lean, focused, and youthful, even more strikingly so tasted next to 2 older Raveneau wines, which had entirely different aromatics and a much lusher mouth feel. Thankfully, the oxidation plague has passed over this particular bottle. Classic, unadorned, old fashioned Chablis, without the extra secondary facets of age that a bottle from last year showed.
Light golden color. Smelled like sulfur and ripe, washed rind cheese on first pour! Various mushroom scents persisted, including truffly aromas that we also found in the 2000, but these were also accompanied by honeyed tones. Big, rich wine, positively sweet (botrytized?) for Chablis, but with late arriving lemon to hold it together. Wonderful and fascinating, although blind, I would have been tempted to place it in the Cote de Beaune rather than Chablis.
Medium golden color. Not nearly as floral and aromatic as the Butteaux, this took its time to unfold and show its Chablisen aromas of lemon peel. Less exotic, rich, and full than its stablemate, and also less marked by sulfur than the bottle we had earlier this month. This ultimately developed some of the hazelnut qualities I associate with Raveneau, while retaining its briskly acidic core. Tonight, almost a synthesis of the Dauvissat Forest and the Raveneau Butteaux in its weight and its equipoise between crystalline acidity and development of mature, secondary tones. What a privilege to drink this again-amazing staying power (the wine, that is!).
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
A fish out of water following the tremendous line up of Chablis. For comparison, this was darker than the '96 Dauvissat and almost as advanced looking as the 2 1990 Raveneaus tonight. Unpleasant nose of acetone and banana. Loose knit, exotic, yet incredibly neutral on the palate. Bleh.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Youtfully dark. Burly, sweaty nose which calmed down to reveal licorice, blackberry/blueberry fruit, and a touch of baking spices. Chunky, full palate impression with strong acidity but a degree of lushness that appears over time. This is young and primary like so many '96s but very promising. Nuits through and through.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Medium ruby, clearly lighter and less dense than the '96 Chevillon. While it has a firmly woody foundation, cherry and tangy red berry fruit shone through. Very attractive cinnamon spice aspect too. Much more open and lacy than the aforementioned Chevillon, although it does not have the weightless delicacy or finesse of the very best examples from this commune. Nevertheless, this is flavorful, and excellent bordering on exciting during some sips. It seems to have the capacity to develop further, and is not as encumbered by oak as many other Groffier wines from the mid-1990's are.
1996 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Healthy light yellow, retains some green. Of the 3 bottles I've tried over the past year or so, this was the first with obvious sulfur. As has happened with other bottles from this producer, an initial impression of some fat quickly gave way to lean, classic Chablis, with strong oyster shell, tonic water, and lime zest aromas and flavors. Lean, focused, and youthful, even more strikingly so tasted next to 2 older Raveneau wines, which had entirely different aromatics and a much lusher mouth feel. Thankfully, the oxidation plague has passed over this particular bottle. Classic, unadorned, old fashioned Chablis, without the extra secondary facets of age that a bottle from last year showed.
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1990 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light golden color. Smelled like sulfur and ripe, washed rind cheese on first pour! Various mushroom scents persisted, including truffly aromas that we also found in the 2000, but these were also accompanied by honeyed tones. Big, rich wine, positively sweet (botrytized?) for Chablis, but with late arriving lemon to hold it together. Wonderful and fascinating, although blind, I would have been tempted to place it in the Cote de Beaune rather than Chablis.
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1990 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium golden color. Not nearly as floral and aromatic as the Butteaux, this took its time to unfold and show its Chablisen aromas of lemon peel. Less exotic, rich, and full than its stablemate, and also less marked by sulfur than the bottle we had earlier this month. This ultimately developed some of the hazelnut qualities I associate with Raveneau, while retaining its briskly acidic core. Tonight, almost a synthesis of the Dauvissat Forest and the Raveneau Butteaux in its weight and its equipoise between crystalline acidity and development of mature, secondary tones. What a privilege to drink this again-amazing staying power (the wine, that is!).
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2001 Domaine Antoine Jobard Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
A fish out of water following the tremendous line up of Chablis. For comparison, this was darker than the '96 Dauvissat and almost as advanced looking as the 2 1990 Raveneaus tonight. Unpleasant nose of acetone and banana. Loose knit, exotic, yet incredibly neutral on the palate. Bleh.
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