Ganevat Dinner

Restaurant Mont Blanc, Amsterdam, NL
Tasted Wednesday, November 20, 2024 by Xavier Auerbach with 223 views

Introduction

All wines in flight 2 were double decanted immediately prior to the dinner.

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 Note)

Flight 2 - Six-course dinner (18 Notes)

  • 2018 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Varrons Vieilles Vignes 93 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    A vineyard near Rotalier, terroir argilo-calcaire du Bajocien, 14.5%, bottled 2 November 2021. A recent acquisition, 2018 was the inaugural vintage chez Ganevat, vines planted in 1922. Old vine depth, Burgundian style but you never forget that you are in Jura, cool minerality, floral and elegant.

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  • 2018 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Chamois du Paradis 92 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Terroir argilo-calcaire, ouillée in demi muids, 13,5%. Vines planted in 1949 in the same terroir as Grands Teppes. Similar to the Varrons 2018 but just a bit more nutty and with a little less richness, lacks a bit of power in comparison.

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  • 2018 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 95 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Vines planted in 1919, terroir marnes rouges et graviers, 13.5%, bottled 25 July 2023. Immense, marvellous depth and precision, rich but so tightly wound and energetic, silky and honeyed but salty and minerally, brilliant wine.

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  • 2016 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Chamois du Paradis 94 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Terroir argilo-calcaire, ouillée in demi muids, 13.5%. Vines planted in 1949 in the same terroir as Grands Teppes. Honeyed depth, very expressive and impressive, intense and relaxed, marvellous energy, excellent persistence.

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  • 2016 Jean-François Ganevat Chardonnay Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Vines planted in 1919, terroir marnes rouges et graviers, 13,5%, bottled 15 November 2019. Seems to have closed down compared to the 2018, not nearly as expressive, rich but almost a bit dull, a question mark. Bottle difference? Cautious score.

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  • 2016 Jean-François Ganevat Grusse en Billat 92 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    From the lieu-dit En Billat near the hamlet of Grusse. Terroir schiste et marnes, vinified for four years in demi muids, 13.9%. Correct and comfortable, spicy, elegant and energetic, a rounded and supple style, less distinctive than some of the other Chardonnays tasted today.

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  • 2019 Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Côtes du Jura Sous la Roche 93 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    The vineyard directly behind the estate. Terroir marnes du Lias, 13.5%, bottled 28 August 2023. Rich and powerful, deep and earthy, complex and quite nutty, an impressive Savagnin but not forbidding, there is considerable charm here.

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  • 2018 Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Les Grands Teppes 95 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Terroir marnes et graviers, aged in foudres sans ouillage (sous voile), 12.5%, bottled 3 November 2021. Mind-blowing stuff, intense and powerful but so tightly wound and precise, flowers and olives, endless finish. Great wine.

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  • 2016 Jean-François Ganevat Savagnin Antide 93 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Different terroirs (marnes du Lias, schistes cartons), vinified for four years sur lie, 12.9%. Savagnin Vert, vines planted in 1933 in Les Chalasses, named after the youngest son of FanFan. Light and elegant style, fresh apple, flowers, delicate and flowing, gently salty, harmonious, a very sensitive interpretation of the Savagnin theme.

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  • 2019 Jean-François Ganevat Poulsard Cuvée de L'Enfant Terrible 92 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Terroir marnes blanches et marnes grises, 11.2%. Light and bright, rose hip and spices, gently spicy, slightly metallic perhaps, juicy and delicately grippy, does not possess the elegance of the Trousseau's.

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  • 2019 Jean-François Ganevat Trousseau Plein Sud 94 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    From Sous la Roche, planting density 40,000 vines per hectare. Terroir marnes grises et éboulis provenant de la roche de Chalandigna, 12.8%. Almost like an ultra-light Jayer, very sexy, strawberries and rose hips, decadent elegance, mild tannins, sweet and supple, stunning elegance. I was told that FanFan thinks that this is too heavy, but I adore it.

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  • 2022 Jean-François Ganevat Trousseau Plein Sud 93 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    From Sous la Roche, planting density 40,000 vines per hectare. Terroir marnes grises et éboulis provenant de la roche de Chalandigna, 10.5%, bottled 7 July 2023. Extremely pale colour. In the same vein as the 2019 but more in the direction of Ahr Spätburgunder at present, give this three years and it will be a marvellous as the 2019 (but even more delicate in style).

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  • 2020 Jean-François Ganevat Pinot Noir En Billat 92 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Terroir schisteux-marneux, 12%, bottled 2 November 2021. Floral and fragrant, fresh and minerally, light bodied, quite grippy, tight and firm finish.

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  • 2020 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée Julien 92 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Sélection massale, terroir argilo-calcaire, 12.5%, bottled 3 August 2021. Deeper than the two other accompanying wines, both in colour and in aromas, bright energy from the stems, mild tannins, whiff of cocoa, elegant but rounded, good persistence.

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  • 2022 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée Julien 93 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Sélection massale, terroir argilo-calcaire, 12%, bottled 7 July 2023. Hugely expressive in its youth, an explosion of flowers, roses, peaches, strawberries and cherries, juicy and supple, bright and fresh, lovely length.

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  • 2012 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Dévoilés 93 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Aged sans ouillage (sous voile) for more than 7 years, 13.2%. A one-off attempt at Vin Jaune from Chardonnay. Relatively light colour, candle wax nose, flowers and brine, salty and firm but juicy and supple, floral amd lifted, rather light on the palate, good length.

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  • 2012 Jean-François Ganevat Vin Jaune 97 Points

    France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

    Terroir marnes bleues, aged nine years sans ouillage (sous voile), 14.5%. From Champ Bernard, a plot of 0.3 hectares between Cesancey and Grusse where the Vignes de Mon Pere (mostly) comes from. Huge power and depth, deep colour, nutty and resinous, lots of flor power, woody depth, brine and green olives, immense finish.

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  • NV Jean-François Ganevat Macvin du Jura Vieux 93 Points

    France, Jura, Macvin du Jura

    Brilliant stuff, everything in the right place, rich and sweet, great complexity and energy, stunning weight, elegant and length.

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Flight 3 - Bonus bottle (1 Note)

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