Graham's Memorial Dinner

La Trompette
Tasted Wednesday, November 20, 2024 by NickA with 217 views

Introduction

The brief: toast Graham's memory with wines he would have loved. People brought along various delicious wines that he had discovered, recommended, shared and (even) sold.

Flight 1 - Spelt arancini, Prosciutto di San Daniele (2 Notes)

  • 2010 Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 93 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Immediately appealing. Green-tinged and almost slender upon first being poured, then bloomed to show wonderful mature blanc de blancs character: chewy, lactic toffee, biscuit, caressing vanilla. Beautiful texture, too - I'd demolish a full bottle of this.

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  • 2011 Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut 93 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Brought this because I remember so clearly the first time I tried it, from a bottle G brought to a famous Friday lunch. Deeper gold than its flight-mate, and more evolved on the soft, buttery nose, which had a gorgeous dusky floral aspect. Fresher on the palate, and so tasty, with green apple and a long, sleek, elegant finish. Wonderfully balanced and easy to enjoy.

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Flight 2 - Tuna sashimi with yuzu and white soy, avocado, toasted sesame, coriander, pickled ginger and chilli (2 Notes)

  • 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Really glorious. Seductively reductive nose, which felt at the perfect stage in its development. Great combination of chew, cream and crisp piquancy on the palate. Very long. We all loved this smashable yet serious wine, and it was great with the sharp, tangy dish too.

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  • 2020 Dureuil-Janthial Rully Maizières Blanc 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully

    Full of wonderfully vibrant fresh fruit, although broader than the 2011 too (as Jasper notes, it's from a sunny clay-soiled vineyard). Classic white Burg, cohesive, well-balanced and delicious. Didn't give much away to the 1er cru, although it was shorter and less precise.

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Flight 3 - Rabbit boudin with celeriac puree, choucroute, crisp pancetta, prunes and mustard (2 Notes)

  • 2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Magnum. Oh yeah - that wonderful fresh-yet-musky nose that I've encountered before in other red '17s. Ample juicy fruit in a soft, sensual register, crisp and food-friendly despite the hint of cola on the finish - really good. Fair play to G for discovering this bottling, and I can see why Leon found some resemblance to Fourrier.

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  • 2018 Charles Lachaux Bourgogne La Croix Blanche 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    Wasn't sure when to drink this, but since G was the one who encouraged me to get into A-L (just before the prices went completely insane) it felt fitting to open it tonight rather than test the continued madness of the secondary market. Actually pretty decent, if not a £250 bottle (I paid £30). A lovely nose, full of blackcurrant and other bluer fruits, deep and plush but avoiding heat. The fact it's a regional wine is evident on the palate, though, which was shortish despite also being full of pretty fruit, and felt a bit too 'easy' to work particularly well with food (I scored it a point higher before the course was served).

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Flight 4 - Daube de bouef a la bourguignon with creamed potato, baby carrots, parsnip crisps and lardons (3 Notes)

  • 1970 Château La Conseillante 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Still in good shape, although I don't regret drinking my bottle of this already. Lots of good mature Bordeaux things: truffle, rolling tobacco, smoke, and still some boiled sweet-esque red fruit. Soft and a little decayed, but so charismatic and food-friendly.

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  • 1970 Château Montrose Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Mid-shoulder, or thereabouts, and sadly hadn't survived as well as the Cons '70. Musty, although not corked or terrible - just lifeless.

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  • 2005 Château Montrose 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Estèphe

    Generously plucked from the bench to stand in for the '70. Not decanted, therefore, but readier than anticipated. Stern and laconic, with a menthol coolness and graphitey dark fruit, but actually crisp and quaffable despite all that. It's a truism, but Bordeaux is so pleasing with food, and this was an incredible pairing with the beef.

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Flight 5 - Bleu d'Auvergne (1 Note)

  • 2004 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 95 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    Double-magnum. Flaccianello of this era can be flabby with excessive extraction, or nowadays approaching overmaturity, but absolutely not this one (I'm sure the format helped). Pleasingly fresh, taut and crisp, though with a touch of truffle. Intense fruit perfectly mellowed, with a magnificent finish - just delicious. Really great that the whole room was able to share this; thanks Chris.

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Flight 6 - Pineapple tarte tatin, lime ice cream (1 Note)

  • 2005 Château Doisy-Daëne 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    I knew I'd like this: 2005 Sauternes have that effect. Amply honeyed, with a touch of spice. Svelte, but intense within that frame. Deliciously pretty. Textbook, really.

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Flight 7 - Good things from other tables (3 Notes)

  • 2011 Didier Dagueneau Les Jardins de Babylone Moelleux 91 Points

    France, Southwest France, Jurançon

    Magnum. Maybe this isn't quite as exciting as the superlative 2009 I tried recently, or maybe it wasn't ideal to try this after the (sweet, powerful) Doisy '05, but I felt slightly more respect than love for this. Intense nose of orange barley, and copious stone fruit and pineapple, seasoned with bright lime, on the palate. I actually think this might have been a better match for the dessert than the Doisy, though (but I had already finished eating when I tried this).

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  • 2012 Louis Roederer Champagne Vintage Brut Rosé 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Magnum. Really hit the spot at this stage of proceedings: tart raspberry married to impeccable balance of acidity, great mouthfeel, so easy to drink despite the depth of flavour.

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  • 1998 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A very classy, complete wine. Starting to get truffley, although also barely at the start of its drinking window, so dense was this. Dark, plummy fruit and cocoa; I'd probably have guessed Right rather than Left Bank (although, to be fair, this is 65% Merlot). Clearly loads there, and surely even better five years from now.

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Closing

A fitting occasion, with bittersweet camaraderie in the cosseting surroundings of La T's private room, and a series of delicious, wine-friendly dishes.

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