Christmas Wimps 2023 - Clean Bandit

• 2008 Gaston Chiquet Champagne Premier Cru Brut Millésimé 93 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Super Champagne, and a real 2008 with its clean, lean lines. A waft of vanilla smoke and a touch of gougère on the nose. Bright lemon sherbert and some lovely green fruit on the palate, then broader and more substantial on the finish. A great start!

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• 2017 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  My bottle. Fairly reduced bouquet, but nicely developed with it: toasty, nutty, some linseed. Brisk and citric upon first sip, and then opened out beautifully after a couple of minutes, blossoming into a well-built, angular and long wine with beautiful weight of fruit and a cheeky note of icing sugar. Outrageously good!

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• 2017 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Bouchères 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  First from a case. Oops, I opened my back-up bottle too ;-)
  
  Broader and easier than the Boillot, showing its wares readily and offering gentle, pretty notes of vanilla and flowers on the nose. Some greenish sweet/sour fruit on the palate that swept gloriously into a slightly exotic finish. A charming wine, though without the stature of its flight-mate.

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• 2014 Maison Roche de Bellene Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  A heady, volatile and rather sexy nose, with deep berry fruit, a touch of coffee and, with air, more and more sweet Burgundian decay. Despite being a 2014, it still possessed the stuffing one expects from Malconsorts: meaty terrine, black truffle, and plenty of dark, plummy fruit, although it did finish on a creamy, more red-fruited note. Very tasty!

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• 2012 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Stern, dusty and seemed a bit closed. Lean, with high acidity and something ferrous, although I grew to appreciate its notes of soil and hints of juicy strawberry fruit, and the finish was long and attractive too. I don't think my table-mates were keen on this one, though.

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• 2004 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Initially a bit dusty and in need of awakening... fortunately, it did. Mellow fruit and a touch of meat on the nose. Sleek and elegant mouthfeel, with deep meatiness and a lovely heathery note. The tannins were gorgeous and the finish stealthily long: overall, a predictably lovely wine (and with plenty of time in hand).

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• 2000 Château La Tour Haut-Brion 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  A lot deeper and obviously in the zone than the 2004 PLL. Primal feeling, gamey, very aromatic and ultimately ineffable nose. Lots to enjoy on the palate too - opulent fruit, green tea, Turkish delight - and a great finish. A great, soulful wine.

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• 1998 Château La Tour Haut-Brion 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  More evolved, verging on musty and austere. Black cherry, savoury and subtle. Did fill out with time, but overshadowed by the other Clarets today.

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• 1989 Domaine de Chevalier 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  A totally clean bottle, with bags of energy. Ample slightly sweet fruit, an interesting hint of volatility, gorgeous refreshing acidity and an appealing sense of vitality - oh so drinkable. My WOTL - at peak?

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• 1986 Domaine de Chevalier 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Lean and citrusy, with a soapy aroma (in a good way...) and a bright, attractive scent of purple sweets. Juicy beefsteak and beautiful blueberry fruit on the nicely resolved palate; another wine in great condition.

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• 1985 Warre Porto Vintage 92 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Wow - that's a lot of sediment! Extremely perfumed, with an overly powdery scent of roses, and opulently, intensely jammy on the palate. Fortunately for the sake of balance the finish was bitter with dark chocolate, but I didn't find this to be a great Port.

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• 2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Clos de la Roche 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Barnyard and truffle, dark fruit and excellent acidity. Incredible length, too. Gorgeous, in the zone.

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• 2011 Passopisciaro Sicilia Contrada Sciaranuova 92 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Sicilia

  Surprisingly tannic. Dusty Etna-style fruit, with powdery violets and a dark finish. Charismatic wine that intrigues and compels.

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• 2002 Nicolas Potel Romanée St. Vivant 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Dark-toned, with high acidity, verging on shrill. A black tea note, and good length. Impressive... but is it delicious?

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Well, that was fun - especially the lovely whites and the epic Claret quintet