Christmas Cornucopia WIMPS #184 19th December 2024

The final WIMPS of 2024 was another triumph; perfect union of excellent food, attentive and sensitive service, a range of lovely wines and fantastic company. What a way to spend a grey winter's afternoon

• NV Louis Roederer Champagne Collection 243 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  Magnum. Lime oil with a touch of creamy lemon posset on the nose on pouring. With air some hints of ginger and quince jelly emerge. Palate is long and fresh with charming acids and richness and bitterness perfectly balanced for my palate. A touch of lime oil once more on the finish.

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• 2022 Terra Costantino Etna Bianco Superiore Contrada Praino 90 Points

  Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC

  Understated nose on pouring, a little slatey minerality maybe. After 20 minutes it awakes from its slumbers and reveals some grated marzipan and a few Biscoff crumbs. Palate has good acidity and touch of banana leaf greenness and a touch of lime barley water squash.

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• NV Pieropan 5 Calvarino Veronese IGT 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Veronese IGT

  70% Garganega, 30% Trebbiano di Soave. a blend of five Calvarino vintages (2008-2009-2010-2011-2012) aged for at least 10 years in large cement tanks on lees in the cellar. On pouring there is a lovely charred vanilla pod character to the nose. A touch of caramel and then some pastel de nata with the cinnamon character to the fore. Alongside this dimension there is a touch of sage. Palate is well balanced and interesting.

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• 2004 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Magnum. Smoky blue fruits with some bresaola meatiness, clean as you like. With air some subtle bacon fat aromas emerge with some Bakewell notes and a hint of grated white chocolate. Palate is rich and mouthcoating with some redder fruits, pleasing acids and some Christmas spice notes. Fabulous.

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• 2003 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Magnum. More red fruited, a little marzipan and some Earl Grey tea tannins. Palate long and spicy, a little rustic compared to the 2004 this is served with but only hints of gaminess.

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• 1995 Domaine Lafran-Veyrolles Bandol Longue Garde 90 Points

  France, Provence, Bandol

  Very animale and bretty on pouring. Some sweaty saddle leather and hung steak. Some roasted chestnut richness and ripe plum fruit with some air. It blossoms in the glass and any rough edges fade as it cleans up. Good stuff.

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• 2016 Bilancia Syrah la Collina 89 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay

  A game of two halves here, the palate is charming with layers of mushroom duxelles, cranberries and later Morello cherry. Some beef carpaccio meatiness too. Palate not quite at the same level yet; all the elements there but a little short. Could well be an age thing, suspect another 5 years and this will have caught up.

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• 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  A little reticent on pouring but this comes to life with air and food. There's a little olive brine around a deep liquorice core. Some meatiness and good acids too. One that would have benefited from a decant I suspect. Good stuff.

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• 1988 Penfolds Grange 94 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  Wow there is so much going on here. On pouring there is a chopped date and molasses thing and at the same time a bright, citrussy component almost like a couple of ppm of high quality limoncello. With air this recedes largely although there is an enduring orange zest quality in the background alongside some marzipan, a hint of eucalypt and after 30 mins in the glass, a lovely mintiness. Classy and complex. Love it.

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• 2000 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 89 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Spirity plum fruit with some flecks of toffee. Acids to the fore. Palate has some sweet red fruits and a hint of treacle tart with coffee grounds on the side. Needs time

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Looking forward to the 2025 WIMPS programme. I wish all a fabulous Christmas break; may none of your wines be corked.