Christmas Wimps 2024 - Los Reyes Magos

Another instalment of this wonderful tradition

• 1996 Palmer & Co Champagne Blanc de Blancs 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Magnum. Cor - in such great shape! A pretty, and pleasingly pale, straw. Great nose, which passed through a few stages: buttery lime, honey and spice, then caramel and even soap. Briskly citric on the palate, with sherberty energy, a hint of cereal, and a dense core. Everyone seemed glad it was possible to go back for more of this at least once.

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• 2019 Sacred Hill Chardonnay Riflemans 93 Points

  New Zealand, North Island, Hawke's Bay

  This showed a lot better than another bottle earlier this year, I think because it enjoyed being drunk with food and having plenty of air. Certainly reductive, especially at first, and initially the nose was 'grapey' and a bit anonymous, and there was a distracting sucrosity towards the finish. Happily everything knitted together after 20-30 minutes, and the eventual combination of piquant lime and silky mouthfeel was both unusual and enjoyably balanced.

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• 2014 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Perrières 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  This was brilliant, and (as predicted by our host) had significantly improved with age since I first tried it as part of a Jasper Morris masterclass in 2020. Immense density and power was obvious from the first sniff, and extended through the palate towards the ridiculously long, sculpted finish. Not actually much aroma or flavour, really, just taut, austere stoniness along with a hint of lactic toffee. A really compelling wine, and still young - my favourite of the lunch. That finish!

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After trying a couple of sips of each wine, I drank the reds with the dish and saved the whites for the period between courses...

• 2009 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Prominent dill on the nose. Very, very dry, and grippy too, yet with an attractive plumpness too. Opened up beautifully with time in the glass. I actually preferred this on its own rather than with the food, which wanted something with a bit more fruit.

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• 1989 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Deeper and sweeter than the 2009, and more complex too: pickle juice, green fruit gums, buttered toast. Rich and rather chewy. Superb long finish, that fanned out delightfully. A seamless, sexy wine!

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• 2016 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Clos du Roy 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

  Very brambly - I daresay stemmy - and certainly towards the natural end of the spectrum of red Burgundy. Very pure and refreshing, with deep Pinosity, bright cranberry and a grippy finish. Drinking this with the raviolo made it seem sweeter, and brought out the red fruit even further. Good fun.

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• 2010 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Bottle 2/7. Nicely gamey and red-fruited bouquet, that went through a closed phase from about minutes 10-40 but then came back with increased musky complexity. Lovely cherry fruit on the palate, beautifully savoury, pleasingly refreshing and midweight like the 2010s tend to be. There was at least a touch of tannin, but this certainly felt ready.

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• 1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia 92 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Pretty mature; absolutely enjoyable, but with the sense that it had lost some energy. Coffee, gravy, exotic woods and vestigial dark fruit, and some delightful acidity towards the bright, grippy finish. Seemed to lose focus in the glass. Apparently another bottle of this recently had shown more impressively (but this was still a most enjoyable wine, and excellent with the food).

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• 1994 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia 94 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

  Felt absolutely in the zone, likely at peak for my palate. Incisive notes of orange zest and grass as well as plenty of mellow, warming dark fruit, and the feeling of sitting around a campfire. Refreshing and kept demanding another sip, and absolutely ideal with the dish. Perfect for the season! My favourite red today.

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• 2000 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 93 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  First time trying this famous wine. Plenty of stylish American oak on the nose. Inky and still quite primary, but balanced and precise, and didn't lack refreshment. As silky and well-made as you'd expect, and not as rich and anonymous as I'd feared - certainly an enjoyable wine, but not something I feel the need to chase. I wonder how this would show in 10 or 20 years' time?

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• 1989 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl Vendange Tardive 92 Points

  France, Alsace

  A generous late addition to the line-up from Alino, as there was going to be nothing sweet otherwise. But it actually wasn't that sweet - maybe at the level of a Moulin Touchais of similar venerability. Orange blossom, cereal and pineapple, and a gentle insistence. A cosseting soft cushion of a wine, and a very suitable way to end the meal.

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• 1995 Château Latour Grand Vin 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Utterly glorious, and right in the zone for my palate. Really savoury, but with some fruit and beautiful structure. So long, too. Perhaps even better than when I tried it (different bottle from the same case) six months ago?

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• 2002 Château Haut-Brion 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  What a beautiful nose: extremely aromatic and truffley, soft and enticing. However, I found it a bit tough on the palate, with a lean and pinched finish. Come back in 5-10 years.

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• 1988 Château Léoville Barton 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Saint-Julien

  Totally mature, perhaps even past peak as it seemed a little loose. Still a lovely Claret though, with some juicy fruit and plenty of truffley savour; perhaps one best enjoyed on its own rather than in the company of younger wines?

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• 2016 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  First time lucky enough to try a Keller GG that wasn't too young. Ripe, tropical, even nose. Surprisingly soft! So sensual and hedonistic, even pillow-like. Would love to try this again.

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• 2011 Maison Ilan Charmes-Chambertin Aux Charmes Hautes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Pleasant and seemingly fully - surprisingly - mature. Refreshing, light-bodied Pinot. Very drinkable, though without Grand Cru weight, and had a shortish finish too.

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• 2007 Domaine Maume Mazis-Chambertin 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Smells like Burgundy! Mature, with plenty of hedgerow and sous bois, and an underlying crispness. Very bright acidity, like undersweetned rhubarb, which was a detraction for my palate. Maybe would have been better with food rather than during the between-course interregnum.

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