2014 Grand Cru Chablis

• 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne

  France, Champagne

  Crisp, lemony, mid-weight, and just a touch of maturity. Softer than I expected it to be. Very good but hardly remarkable tonight.

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• 2014 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Pristine light color. The most delicate, fine wine of the bunch with nice citrus fruit but little in the way of salinity or stone. Very good.

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• 2014 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Full yellow. Rich, woody, and somewhat overblown, especially for the vintage. Ripe tropical fruir. My least favorite by far.

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• 2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Healthy yellow color. Attractive light florality. Medium weight but lacking the intensity and drive of the best examples of this cuvée. On the other hand, excellent finishing stoniness and perhaps the strongest acidity of the 2014’s.

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• 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Deep yellow. Most floral of the group with a combination of lemon and pear. Very layered and textural, and this increased with air. Beautiful mix of fruit, herbs, and saline elements supported by sneaky acidity. Not the most monumental example of Dauvissat Clos, but youthful, very fresh, and truly excellent.

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• 2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Light yellow, probably less evolved looking than any of the 2014 Grand Crus. Classic lemon/sea breeze aromatic mix. Medium+ body, terrific coating mouth feel. Dry, citric flavors, a touch of honey as it opened, and a deeper acidic core than the 2014’s. Absolutely splendid finish. In a glorious early phase of drinking pleasure.

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Different vineyards, different producers, and different styles limited conclusions, but we were happy that all 4 wines were sound, fairly youthful, and drinking well. While 2014 may be more classic than any of the vintages that have followed, these wines still did not seem as high in acidity as those from past years such as 2004 or 1996.