A “Ryder Cup” of Wine Tasting Dinner

We arranged a tasting dinner for 30 people, sponsored by several technology companies for their clients, pitting a wine from the US against a wine from Europe for each of 3 courses/flights. The first featured 2017 Hanzell Sonoma County (now Moon Mountain District AVA) Chardonnay versus 2017 Domaine Gilles Morat Pouilly-Fuissé, Sur la Roche (classified as Premier Cru since 2020.) The second featured 2016 Domaine Nicolas-Jay Willamette Valley, Pinot Noir versus Ziereisen “Jaspis” Pinot Noir from Baden, Germany. The third featured 2001 Joseph Phelps, Insignia Cabernet blend versus 2001 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, Ornellaia Super-Tuscan from Bolgheri. To be fair, I should note that in the first two flights the US wine was the main volume wine from the winery (perhaps akin to a “Villages” Level Burgundy) while the European wines were single vineyard or premium versions.

Both wines were excellent. The Hanzell worked better with the egg, with its crisp acidity and very low Malo percentage (~9%) cutting through the rich egg yolk. The Gilles Morat Pouilly-Fuissé was better with the apple salad as it was a bit creamier and complemented the acidity in the salad. I thought the wines were pretty equal in quality and my preference was marginally in favor of the Hanzell, though more people seemed to prefer the Pouilly-Fuissé.

• 2017 Hanzell Chardonnay 94 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley

  Double decanted after an hour of air and recorked to bring to a tasting event. Limpid yellow with a tinge of green. Nose is forward, floral, fruit floral and minerally. Lightly creamy, it shows stone fruits like ripe white nectarine and wet stones. Palate has Medium+ acidity and a rich chewy texture with very complex fruit flavors like green apple, green papaya, stone fruit and lemon curd. Long luxurious finish. Balances bright and energetic. More after the event.
  This seemed to me to still be in need of additional aeration when served. I thought this paired very well with the Deviled Egg. Group thought the Gilles Moran Sur la Roche was better by 60% or so of the 30 attendees.

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• 2017 Gilles Morat Pouilly-Fuissé Sur la Roche 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Double splash decanted and brought to a tasting event. Light but bright lemon yellow color. Nose is floral with white flowers, vanilla cream, lime/lemon pith and mineral undertones. Palate is quite creamy but not excessively so, with caramel hints, lemon curd, white peach and minerals. The long finish is balanced and energetic. More after the event.
  This seemed at peak when served and was the preferred wine by about 60% of the 30 attendees. Still quite fresh and balanced with a little more forward fruit. Paired well with the Apple Salad. 93—>94+

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The Ziereisen Pinot really soared with this course. The vast majority preferred it with a group at one end of the room really not liking the Nicolas-Jay. It is possible one of the three bottles may have been slightly corked or more likely in my view (since I had tasted all three bottles when I decanted them earlier) it needed significantly more air and was in fact in a closed down state when actually served. I had debated giving it more air before pouring it back into the bottle. Nevertheless, the Ziereisen was absolutely delicious and impressed everyone in attendance, none of whom had ever had a German Pinot before.

• 2016 Domaine Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  In my cellar since wine club release. Double decanted around 12:30pm and after 30 minutes, recorked to bring to a tasting event in the evening. Translucent medium ruby-garnet color. Nose initially lightly restrained with sweet spice , rose petals and fresh red cherry fruit. Palate is richly textured but quite high in acidity giving a lean fresh feel. There savory and saline/mineral notes as well as sweet baking spices, vanilla and more black cherry fruit than red. Very energetic. Finish is savory and quite briary with lighter red raspberry nuances that last 20-25 seconds. More after the event.
  When served, I think this still needed a lot of air. One group of tables really didn’t care for it, perhaps one of the 3 bottles served was a little off/slightly corked? I tasted it again and my opinion is that it was just closed down and in need of a lot more air. The group almost unanimously loved the Ziereisen Pinot.

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• 2016 Ziereisen Pinot Noir Jaspis 95 Points

  Germany, Baden

  Double decanted around 1pm and recorked after a half hour and brought to a tasting event in the evening. Translucent bright ruby color. Nose initially is quite reticent with a very mineral and savory feel along with a smoky burnt element and hints of vanilla, evergreen and cherry that come out with a but of swirling. Palate is only medium acidity with very soft barely noticeable tannins. The red cherry, strawberry, and raspberry fruit seems in the background with lean saline, mineral and savory elements in the foreground. Finish at this stage is fairly short. More later.
  This wine was singing when served, everyone was quite surprised. It was beautifully balanced, fruit really come to the fore and it went very well with the salmon. It was the favorite vs the Nicolas-Jay Pinot by a wide margin. 92—>95

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Both wines of course went perfectly well with the beef and both were delicious. For me, the Ornellaia was a touch more elegant but the Insignia was richer and a little more powerful/flavorful. I preferred the Ornellaia but the majority of the group preferred the Insignia.

• 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  In my cellar since release. (Cabernet Sauvignon 89%, Petit Verdot 8%, Malbec 3%, 13.9% labeled ABV) Double decanted 3 bottles around 10:45 am with an hour in the decanter then recorked and brought to the tasting event for 5:30 start. Dark nearly opaque garnet color. Initially the nose is moderately fragrant with some distinct woody/oak notes as well as spicy florals, lots of earthy nuances, plum, black and blue berries and perhaps a touch of sandalwood on the very long finish. Palate overall reflects the nose with some chocolate in addition. It seems a little brooding and reluctant but quite well balanced. More after the event.
  The wine looked incredibly youthful when served, no visible hint it was 23+ years old! It was so silky yet rich and balanced, not at all brooding but quite luscious. Marginally the preferred wine in the flight vs the 2001 Ornellaia among the 30 attendees. 95—>96

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• 2001 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia 96 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

  In my cellar since release. (Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%, 14.5% stated ABV) At 10:30am 3 bottles were double decanted after an hour and taken to a tasting. Dark opaque garnet color. Initially, very effusive nose of bright florals, fragrant dark berries, turned earth, cassis, coffee, chocolate and ripe plum. Bright acidity, fully integrated tannins, dense texture but so beautifully balanced. Palate is very deep and complex reflecting the nose. Bright and energetic flavors. Finish is moderately long with just a hint of brett and mineral undertones. More after the event.
  This was so youthful in appearance and incredibly elegant, I thought this was just profoundly beautiful. I preferred this but the group marginally preferred the 2001 Insignia served along side in this flight. 95—>96

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The evening seemed to be universally enjoyed. In addition to the wine and food there were lively discussions of topics ranging from decanting/aeration to wine reviewer score inflation and the influence of new oak on wine among other subjects. The two wines that seemed to have the most individuals most excited were the Insignia and the Ziereisen Pinot. Overall, based on the majority opinions, the European wines carried 2 of the 3 flights.

Thanks to all who participated and helped make the event happen including David, Dave, Michelle, Jen and the staff of the White Dog Café.