Produttori Riserva collection 2008

Must and Lees, N1
Tasted Wednesday, January 29, 2025 by oenanthe with 247 views

Introduction

A group of us shared a beautiful wooden box filled with nine bottles of beautiful wine. The box is now in my living room, the wine evaporated. We got lucky with the entire case in top condition allowing the different nature of the crus to shine out, and there were no awkward blanks. Served blind in groups of three in the order that the PdB would serve them.

Flight 1 (3 Notes)

  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Medium red. Just about translucent. Really quite appealing. Quite floral and with a sweet red fruit element. Has some tannins in evidence still (and was opened 4 hours prior, as were all the wines), but not that are difficult to get around and actually they add to the story. Really rather nice, and as the first in this blind tasting of 2008s an excellent start, even if it didn’t in the final reckoning gather much if any support. But this is a reflection on the quality of the other wines, rather than there being any issue with this. Very enjoyable indeed.

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  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Medium red, much as the Pora but slightly more evolved on the nose, extremely positively so in fact. This continues as I take a sip, this is much more approachable all round, soft and delicious. Best of this flight in my view, inviting and appealing and seemingly in a good spot. In reality you could say that all of these are ready, none need more time, but this one is truly open for business. This is excellent, the fruit has a succulence that is delightful.

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  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Whilst this is the same general hue as the others the nose is immediately funky, some kind of volatility going on that is not unpleasant, just different. Different enough though that if you had to choose between two wines you would almost certainly pick the other on, just in case. As it happens the palate is more normalised and the wine is as delicious as its counterparts, with floral aspects, sweet red fruit that feels a little more intense than either Paje or Pora at this stage, and healthy whack of tannin that again is not unpleasant at all, nor shocking. A very decent package indeed.

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Flight 2 (3 Notes)

  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    To me this was most equivalent to the Paje in character. Inviting crunchy red fruit, all about cranberry and cherry. This has a certain delicacy about it, a light waft of flowers, a dusting of fine herbs, it just has an airy nature about it that I find very attractive. Lovely.

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  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    This aligns with the Paje and the Rio Sordo. Warm, cosy and comforting like the Paje, and sharing its roundness and ripe fruit, and then with the elegance and lightness of touch of the Rio Sordo. Just fantastic balance, freshness and life,
    everything you would want. It jumped into top spot for me after 6 of the wines tasted and remained as my WOTN after the final 3. It was the group’s 3rd.

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  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Medium red, just as the others. Lined up in a glass these would almost all be indistinguishable in my view. I find the nose more muted than the others, despite all being opened at the same time. It comes out with a vigorous swirl, and then gets better and better, but this is inherently more backward. Air works miracles here though, and this just goes through the gears with consummate ease. Much as I liked everything about it, it didn’t wow me quite like the Asili did. The fruit is wonderful, perhaps even above the Asili, but it’s not a wine on tiptoes. Group WOTN, though I didn’t vote for it I don’t think.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Smoky nose, a touch reductive. Nice, but none of the others have been like this or showed any signs, what gives? A bit brasher, less refined. My least favourite of the nine, it’s a bit unbalanced – individually the parts are solid but as a whole this is just a bit gawky. It's still very tasty, however my notes say that this tasted less like Nebbiolo than the others, and really you do want Barbaresco to taste like Nebbiolo!

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  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Deeper and darker fruited, obviously so. It is immediately more serious than any of the preceding wines, with more heft and body. Sturdy wine, will be glorious probably. Just not sure when. Today it is reserved and stately, I would like to taste this again in another ten years. Great wine, and will get greater.

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  • 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano 94 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

    Delicious and wonderful. More years needed, but just wonderful stuff. I think this was the group #2 WOTN and it was certainly deserving of this accolade. Stiff, stern, grippy, tightly coiled. You feel this will become open and soar to heady heights one day. It has serious structure and a beating heart of plush fruit. Will be an absolute stunner one day. I hope to get to taste it again in a few years. Excellence in a glass.

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Closing

Well done to Jerry for sourcing a truly brilliant case of wine and conducting the blind tasting. Very instructive indeed. With one exception I found all the wines thrillingly lovely, so much so I find it now hard to work out which ones I voted for. I did manage to record the group votes though.

1. Rabaja
2. Montestefano
3. Asili

Must and Lees as good as ever, thanks to everyone for a most enjoyable evening.

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