Must and Lees, N1
Tasted Wednesday, January 29, 2025 by oenanthe with 247 views
A group of us shared a beautiful wooden box filled with nine bottles of beautiful wine. The box is now in my living room, the wine evaporated. We got lucky with the entire case in top condition allowing the different nature of the crus to shine out, and there were no awkward blanks. Served blind in groups of three in the order that the PdB would serve them.
Well done to Jerry for sourcing a truly brilliant case of wine and conducting the blind tasting. Very instructive indeed. With one exception I found all the wines thrillingly lovely, so much so I find it now hard to work out which ones I voted for. I did manage to record the group votes though.
1. Rabaja
2. Montestefano
3. Asili
Must and Lees as good as ever, thanks to everyone for a most enjoyable evening.
2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Medium red. Just about translucent. Really quite appealing. Quite floral and with a sweet red fruit element. Has some tannins in evidence still (and was opened 4 hours prior, as were all the wines), but not that are difficult to get around and actually they add to the story. Really rather nice, and as the first in this blind tasting of 2008s an excellent start, even if it didn’t in the final reckoning gather much if any support. But this is a reflection on the quality of the other wines, rather than there being any issue with this. Very enjoyable indeed.
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2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pajè 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Medium red, much as the Pora but slightly more evolved on the nose, extremely positively so in fact. This continues as I take a sip, this is much more approachable all round, soft and delicious. Best of this flight in my view, inviting and appealing and seemingly in a good spot. In reality you could say that all of these are ready, none need more time, but this one is truly open for business. This is excellent, the fruit has a succulence that is delightful.
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2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Whilst this is the same general hue as the others the nose is immediately funky, some kind of volatility going on that is not unpleasant, just different. Different enough though that if you had to choose between two wines you would almost certainly pick the other on, just in case. As it happens the palate is more normalised and the wine is as delicious as its counterparts, with floral aspects, sweet red fruit that feels a little more intense than either Paje or Pora at this stage, and healthy whack of tannin that again is not unpleasant at all, nor shocking. A very decent package indeed.
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