A Vertical Tasting of Bonnes-Mares: 1994-1945 with Christophe Roumier

Montrachet in NYC
Tasted Sunday, March 2, 1997 by FreddieMoose with 84 views

Introduction

Another in series of fabulous Burgundy tastings sponsored by Daniel Johnnes, then Wine Director at Montrachet in Tribeca. Back in the mid-90s, Daniel created the Burgundy Club and brought a number of the leading vignerons (Dominique Lafon, Christophe Roumier, Jacques Seysses, etc.) to Montrachet to lead tastings of their wines paired with the wonderful food from chef Chris Gesualdi. Given the parabolic rise in Burgundy prices, the cost of admission to these events in hindsight was ridiculously cheap!

Flight 1 - 1991-1994 (5 Notes)

Flight 2 - 1988-1990 (5 Notes)

  • 1990 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Deep red color. More expressive on the nose today than I would have expected and dominated by spice and plum notes. Tremendous cherry fruit with a finish that goes on and on.

    NB - over time I became less enamored with the '90 Bonnes-Mares and sold my remaining bottles (along with a bunch of other '90 red burgs). The '90 Bonnes-Mares felt too extracted with too much "sous-bois", etc. and not what I desired in Burgundy. I have not had the wine in years and my decision could have been short-sighted based on recent scores on CT. I guess I will have to console myself with the '95 Bonnes-Mares!

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  • 1989 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Not surprisingly, softer and more accessible than the '90 served right before it. Good intensity with somewhat roasted cherry fruit. Will provide good near-term drinking.

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  • 1988 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Reserve

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

    Mystery Wine #2 - Good red color. More reserved on the nose compared to the '90 & '89 Bonnes-Mares. Excellent concentration. Somewhat roasted fruit, but with good balancing acidity for aging.

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  • 1988 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Showing very little on the nose today. Outstanding structure, but with acidity and tannins most prominent today. Roumier made terrific wines in '88, but the Bonnes-Mares will need substantial time in the cellar to show its stuff.

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  • 1988 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    Even more backward than the regular '88 bottling served before it. Really difficult to evaluate today - maybe after a number of hours in the decanter. It should be outstanding in another 20 years, but will it be superior to the regular cuvée? TBD

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Flight 3 - 1945-1986 (12 Notes)

Closing

The wines of Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier have always had a special place in heart.
My first purchase of Red Burgundy was a bottle of '85 Chambolle-Musigny back in 1988 ($25.00 / bottle) and from then on I was hooked. Given my affinity for the Domaine, the Bonnes-Mares tasting event will go down as one my top-5 wine experiences over the past 35+ years of collecting.

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