Jonathan's 2017 Burgundy Check In

Noizé, London
Tasted Thursday, March 6, 2025 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 93 views

Introduction

Lovely to assemble a group to look at this vintage together. Anecdotally we've all been enjoying this vintage from the get go but good personally to try a few producers new to me and see that they are also firing on all cylinders

Flight 1 - Whites (2 Notes)

  • 2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Santenay 1er Cru La Comme Blanc 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru

    Pale and pure. Some lemon candyfloss and the suggestion of rosewater / Turkish Delight box on the nose; not overt sweetness - just the suggestion, a touch of sesame cracker too. Palate is fresh, so well balanced and beautifully limey and refreshing. Classy stuff and gains weight and gravitas with time in the glass. My 3rd favourite wine of the night in a very tight field.

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  • 2017 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Darker in the glass than the PYCM Santenay 1er Cry Combe this is served with. Nose opens with some praline richness, later some more classical citrussy notes. Palate a tad dry on the first sip but really blossoms with air. Quite reductive nose but some classy blood orange pith emerges with some time in the glass. Palate also develops some lemon sherbet characteristics.

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Flight 2 - Côtes de Beaunes (2 Notes)

  • 2017 Francois Gay Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

    Understated and old school, this opens with some smoky strawberry fruit and a touch of grenadine cordial. Palate is tight on pouring but opens with air; good acids some forest fruits and just enough structure to frame it beautifully. With air the palate gains a touch of sweetness with a hint of Victoria Sponge creaminess alongside the raspberry fruit.

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  • 2017 Domaine Tawse Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Darker fruited than the Savigny 1er this is served with; some rosehip, Maraschino cherry and pencil shavings with a touch of grated dark chocolate. A hint of sweetness too in a plum sorbet register. Palate is pretty, joyous and dark fruited. Lovely acids and very food friendly.

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Flight 3 - Chambolles (2 Notes)

  • 2017 Gilbert et Christine Felettig Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Floral, perfumed and profound with a redcurrant pastille character and a hint of crème pat sweetness / creaminess on the finish. Some banana leaf greenness with air and so sophisticated. Palate has charming crunchy red fruits lovely acids and a touch of raspberry leaf greenness. My wine of the night and the table's second favourite in a tight field.

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  • 2017 Gilbert et Christine Felettig Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    A little reduced on pouring, some ripe red fruits, lovely rose petal and sweet pea florality add character., With air some rosehip tea and just a hint of pork roasting juice savouriness. Palate a tiny bit tauter than the Gruenchers but characterful and lovely.

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Flight 4 - Moreys (2 Notes)

  • 2017 Domaine Amiot et Fils Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

    Smoky plum fruit on the nose hear on pouring there are also is also a rosehip sorbet tartness / sweetness and some white chocolate dipped redcurrants. The sweetness for me is complementary not the primary character which is still on the tart fruits. Palate has lovely crystalline red fruits, fabulous acids and lovely length. My second favourite wine of the night (by a smidge) and the table's favourite. Lovely stuff

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  • 2017 Domaine Stephane Magnien Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

    Dark fruits, plums and ripe ones at that. A touch of Hoisin too. Possibly a touch overripe? Still lots to like here, a meaty dimension to this both on the nose and the palate which has bright acids and pleasingly melting tannins. Just a touch of vanilla from the oak on the finish. Have some of this in the cellar so will be interested to see how it evolves.

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Closing

Thanks to Jonathan for pulling together, my table mates for their vinous wisdom, great company and fabulous wines and to Mathieu and team for the great food and service to which we've become accustomed at Noizé

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