Magnum. Greenish yellow. Some sulfur. Nice sweet pear, light oaky foundation, very good acidity, some salinity and soil. Not as crisp or intense as I would expect from this vintage. Too loose and rich.
Magnum. Deeper yellow. Slightly lactic, funky aromas. Medium+ weight. Apple fruit, excessive oak, good acidity and soil, dry finish from the wood. Both vintages had too much oak, this even more so than the 2014.
Magnum. Light greenish yellow. Fresh citrus and light oak on the nose. Medium bodied. Creamy, overly oaked base. Round orchard fruit, oyster shell, average acidity, excellent soil to finish. Some nice components but where is the tension?
Magnum. Yellow, a little remaining green. Bitter citrus aromas. Medium+ weight. Relatively fresh, rich with some vanilla, excellent soil and salinity, but soft acidity does not provide enough shape. This is in fine condition, but too much wood and too little zestiness. Dull.
Yellow/green. Algal tones. Medium body. Wonderful feel with only a trace of wood. Complex, low key stone fruit and citrus, excellent soil, very good acidity, and a bit of vanilla at the end. Long and fluid, some back end firmness and bite. Excellent result.
Again, greenish yellow, fairly youthful color. Fragrant flowers, oyster shell, and dull citrus. Excellent Chablis mix of fruit, savory elements, soil, and excellent acidity. Light woodiness, excellent structure for the year, shorter than the 2012.
Yellow, still some green. Citrus and salinity on the nose. Elegant medium to lighter weight. Bright, cri lime and lemon, outstanding acidity, excellent late soil, and the barest touch of vanilla. Refreshingly young and the closest thing to brisk I tasted all day. Not only was this far and away the finest Chablis, but it was one of the best white wines on a day when so many examples were too fat, woody, or both.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Fresh herbs and flowers. Light reduction. Medium body. Citrus and apple jelly, very good acidity but excellent acidity with lots of back end soil. Really fine and dry.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Riper apple tones, slight reduction. Nice round sweet fruit, more oak than the 2019, good acidity, shorter finish. Too much wood and one of the more plodding bottles of Lamy I’ve had.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Full yellow. Low pitched aromas. Medium to full, sappy feel. Citrus and apple, very good acidity, but the excellent minerality and soil I expect of this producer. The wood is more discrete and toned down. Excellent concentration, natural sweetness, and length. The best and liveliest of the 3 vintages.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Light yellow. Herb, ripe citrus, and faint reduction. Ripe, rich orchard fruit atop a moderately woody base. Very good acidity, long soil finish. Silky, sappy feel with obvious oak at this point.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Light yellow. Fragrant, lemony, light reductive notes. Lighter weight. Excellent stony base, a bit of vanilla, tart citrus, excellent acidity. I like the elegance and balance. This is the best of the trio and more typical of the appellation, but this year’s PYCM wines didn’t cover themselves in glory.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pale. Toasty and reductive. Round ripe apple, some oak, outstanding texture and soil, very good acidity, long lemony finish. Excellent but wood and reduction to deal with.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. More oak, light reduction. Apple jelly, soil, and wood. Less layered and textural than the 2019 and lower intensity. Good acidic finish. Okay, no more than that.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Light toasty oak, pungent fruit aromas. Light to medium body. Discrete oak. Bright lemony fruit, better acidity than the younger wines. Excellent and the best of the vintages shown, but I’m concerned that the wood sticks out too much. The Pillot wines were also disappointing today and hardly worth the high praise or high price that they routinely fetch. All of them were too rich and diffuse to some extent.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pale. Light wood and pear. Discretely sweet orchard fruit and well weighted oak. Long, glycerine, deep soil, moderate acidity, still slightly austere finish. Lovely and everything in balance. To my surprise, the strongest of the vertical selection.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Light oak toast. Lighter than the 2018. Woody base, less well defined fruit, excellent bright acidity and soil. Relatively elegant, some vanillin on the finish, very fluid across the palate. I liked it even more several years ago when I found the wood treatment less impactful.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow greenish. Even more woodspice aromas than the 2017. Round, rich glycerine oaky entry. More pear than citrus. Again, some vanilla tones late. What bothers me about this and the 2017 is that the oak seems more noticeable now compared to previous tastings. To me this is the wrong direction and it makes me wonder if the fruit has the necessary staying power. Disappointing results from a producer I’ve really enjoyed in the past.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow. Toastiness and reduction. Medium+ body. Sappy and very oaky. Pear and soil. Finish shortened by reduction and too much wood. Not much to like here.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Just oak on the nose. Rich, long, textural, and spicy, but lower acidity and difficult to discern fruit. Later there is vanillin, drying wood, and even some light char. Completely overdone and out of balance.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Less oak on the nose, more citrus. Nice sweet fruit, measured cooperage, more soil, and excellent lemony acidity. Much more convincing balance and a big relief after the ponderous 2015.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Low pitched nose. Medium weight. Sweet apple on the attack, lovely intertwined earth, solid acidity. Great texture from concentrated fruit rather than from wood treatment. Long, persistent, and very well balanced. My favorite of the trio today.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Prominent wood scents but surprisingly, not representative of the palate, which has round pear fruit, excellent acidity, very good soil, and excellent length and structure. Some attractive citrus arrives late. In fine form and I enjoyed it much more than the 2017. Different wine making regime and style I guess.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Floral with light toasty tones. Medium light, elegant line. Bitter citrus, excellent acidity, lovely balance, some cinnamon. Best of all the Meursaults tasted although I couldn’t find the legendary Perrières minerality. I also liked it when I tasted it last year.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Fuller yellow. Mature, truffled aromas. Medium weight. Pear fruit, light application of wood, stony underpinning-finally some minerality! Secondary, moderate length, excellent acidity, bright back end citrus. Very enjoyable even if past its peak.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Yellow. Citrus, pear, wood, some reduction. Medium weight, toasty. Excellent citrus attack, very good acidity, but then it drops off, subsumed by drying wood tannins and a harsher mouth feel.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Yellow. Also slightly reduced. Medium+ body. Similar toasty aspect, but the citrus is deeper and more vibrant and the texture somewhat creamier. A step ahead of the 2018 but still marred by reduction and injudicious oak which both stunt the finish.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Light yellow. Toasty notes and fresh orchard fruit. Medium weight. Dry, serious, subtly leesy. Less citrus than the 2020, less layered, and rendered slightly bitter from the wood. Not great. After tasting through the range, I have a hard time seeing the Girardin Batards as anything but below average Côte de Beaune Grand Crus which offer extremely little value for the exorbitant price. Beyond dismaying.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Subtle leesy nose. Medium- weight but still concentrated and creamy. Bitter citrus, excellent acidity. Less oak and less voluminous than the younger 2 vintages, but so refined, supremely elegant, and beautifully detailed. Best white wine of this tasting, and compared to the Girardin Batard, it emphasizes a “less is more” winemaking mentality. Pure and just lovely.
Ruby core. Citrus and reduction which fruit. Medium weight but quite penetrating. Nicely tart and full of soil. Fine, long tannic finish. Youthful with excellent promise. Clearly ahead of the 2017.
Pale ruby. Gentle herbs and soil on the nose. Medium weight. Poised, pungent, ripe red fruit transitioning to a sweep of fine soil, excellent acidity, and a lingering tannic finish. Subtle vin de terroir. Just loved this.
Also pale color. Mostly soil tones. Some sweet red fruit on the entry, then tangy citricity, warm earth, late spiciness, and fine grained tannins. Refined, beautiful fruit/soil interplay, and not a bit too ripe despite the vintage. Another beauty.
Light ruby core. Hint of superripe fruit and spices. Medium- body. A burst of tart fruit followed by fresh acidity, a squeeze of orange, and loads of soil. Still some drying tannins to resolve, but at 22 years of age, there is still enough fruit to stand up to them for some years. Very successful 2003.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Red. Ripe fruit and tilled earth. Medium to full bodied, full of sap. Bright, lively, citric with gorgeous round red fruit and balancing menthol. Excellent verve. Tannic for sure but not at all austere. Moderately long finish. Already delicious but will ascend over the next few decades. Outstanding wine, terrific stuffing.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Pale, early browning. Spiced red fruit and lighter soil. Medium weight. Gently sweet attack, great sense of soil, fine acidity, and moderately grippy tannins. A little sap and outstanding earth/fruit complexity. Sweet and savory flavors that only Burgundian Pinot Noir can provide. I’ve loved this wine each time I’ve had it. Now finally reaching maturity.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Ruby almost to the rim. Wintergreen scents. Medium weight, excellent texture and light sap on the attack, but then harsh, high acidity, stemmy, and dry. This is old school Faiveley and not nearly as giving or pliant as the 2 younger vintages. These days, you don’t find many young Cortons that are as severe as this is.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Light, dull ruby. Green herb and radiant red berry. Medium bodied, beautiful underpinning of soil. Tart red fruit, excellent acidity, some whole cluster complexity, citrus, and moderately tannic finish. Discretely ripe, lovely balance, outstanding young Nuits.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Light char on the nose. Elegant medium weight. Not as ripe as the 2019, but seductive dark fruit, some soil, and excellent citric acidity. Gentle, long lightly tannic finish. Already charming and excellent with the balance to improve from here.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Ruby. Fragrant candied fruit. Medium+ weight. Biggest, sappiest, and least elegant of these wines. Perfectly ripe dark cherry, excellent acidity and thread of soil, round substantial tannin. Young and harmonious, but a big boy that needs an additional 5 to 10 years to shed its fat and develop more complexity.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Pale. Oak, char, and a bit of caramel. Light to medium body, some sap. Dull blue and red fruit, smokiness, fine acidity and soil, moderately austere, tannic finish.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Pale. Fragrant. Medium to light weight but sappier than the 2017. Dull cherry, black fruit and soil. Clenched tannins. Seemingly more locked up than when tasted last year.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Light ruby. Wood and deeper pitched fruit on the nose. Medium+ weight-the biggest, richest, and sappiest of these wines trio of Suchots. More open dark cherry, citrus, moderate earth, and round, deep tannins. Showing a lot already, but give it another 10 years for full expression.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Magnum. Dull ruby core. Spice and menthol, quite perfumed. Subtly ripe dull cherry and strawberry. Light and elegant. Long soil base, excellent acidity, earthy, grainy tannins that dry the finish. Very good terroir wine.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Very pale. Christmas spice. Medium to light body. Elegant, citric, supple lightly ripe red fruit, fine acidity and earth, gentle soil infused tannins. Excellent, just about ready, and the best of the 3 vintages shown.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Faded ruby. Sweet fruit aromas. Medium weight. Sophisticated fruit, citric, bright, lots of soil and tannin. Excellent today but still needs many years of aging.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Ruby. Ripe red fruit and spice on the nose. Medium body, lovely sappy feel. More earthy, tannic, and closed than the 2017, but excellent length and should be excellent in due time.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Lighter weight. On the palate, soil filled and citric, but the rest of the fruit is in the background. Less plush and more tannic than the 2018. Needs a good 15 years. Hard to say much more than that today. Properly rugged Clos Vougeot.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Dull light ruby. Oak char and dark red fruit aromas rich, round, sappy attack with red and blue fruit, some stem notes, long soil, and moderate wood. Larger scaled and serious with strong soil and an austere finish. Clearly outstanding but this will surely shut down further before it fully blossoms.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Cooler green aromas and less fruit than the 2019. Lighter weight. Subtly sweet dull red fruit, char, excellent acidity, very fine soil. Drying tannins. This too is excellent but much more closed than 5 years ago. Needs 10 or more years.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Beautiful, forthcoming ripe mixed fruit and citrus. Bright, gushing aromas. Medium weight, sappy and flowing across the palate. Dark fruit and soil, less stemmy than the 2017, rounder tannins, long citric structured finish. Beautiful, maybe a half step behind the 2019 for me, but at this level of quality, who’s counting?
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby core. Sweet ripe red fruit and char. Medium+ body. Sappy, earthy deep dark fruit, light soil vein, excellent citric acidity, and then dry tannins. Outstanding and a real success for the year, but it could still benefit from another 10 years.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Garnet. Fragrant green stem notes. Lovely earthy feel on the entry with tart dark red fruit, high acidity, strong green herb, and lower tannins. Lots of soil and a surprising amount of cooler elements in this ripe year. At least excellent and probably better than that with more time.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Fragrant and cooler and greener than the 2015. Medium to light weight. Subdued black fruit, high acidity, deep soil, and harsh tannins. Little charm now and too lean for its own good. This had much more flesh and interest 6 years ago. Has it dropped its fruit or is it just extremely grumpy now?
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale. Ripe red berry and lighter green tones. Medium weight with a carressing, lightly sappy feel. Excellent red fruit/soil balance, average acidity, round but firm tannins. Low pitched, serious, excellent, and more to come.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby, faded rim. Fascinating aromas of mint, game, and dark fruit. Medium body. Great balance of fruit, savory, and soil with a long, earthy mouth feel. Moderately tannic with some mild austerity to resolve. Outstanding wine.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale, browning. Secondary fruit aromas and sous bois. Medium to lighter weight. Supple, soil filled, light sap. Faded fruit, average acidity, and gentle but still present tannins. Mature, lovely, could remain at this level for another 3 to 5 years but not for longer term aging.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light dull ruby. Wood and red fruit aromas. Medium weight. Sappier and sweeter than the 2017. Dark cherry, char, excellent acidity, a touch of citrus, light soil. Dry finish but less tannic than the younger vintage. More modern style but excellent nonetheless.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Earth and menthol. Light to medium weight. Tart red fruit, gentle line of soil, lower acid, and fine long tannins. Very good but looser and not as well defined as the 2015.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby core. Ripe red berry fruit and spice. Medium body. Sweet red fruit attack, not as much soil as in the Dujac wines. Bright, citric, moderate refined tannins. Early days but delicious.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby. Reduced nose. Medium body, less harmonious feel than the 2019. More black fruit, excellent acidity, slightly green, dry, furry tannins. Not very forthcoming today and somewhat harsh. Right now does not have the usual Fourrier profile, but this will take a lot of time to sort itself out.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale center. Cool green aromas. Light body. A bit of sweet berry with a light veneer of sap but mostly tilled soil and moderate tannins. Elegant, restrained, and refined, neither flashy nor fleshy. A second taste revealed more of the beautiful Fourrier sweetness of fruit. Excellent.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Magnum. Pale, slight browning. Fragrant soil and green herb. Medium to lighter weight. Supple flowing feel. Earth, dull red fruit, fine acidity, a hint of anise, low tannins. Really good, mature lighter Gevrey Grand Cru.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Dull light ruby. Fennel. Light. Dry and earthy. Some dull red fruit, tannic finish. This lacks the gentle sweetness and soil/fruit balance of the 2012. Good at best.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very pale. Overtly stemmy. Light weight. A surprising initial burst of tart fruit, but rapidly overtaken by dry soil and tannic grip. I fear that this too will turn out to be too severe and underfruited like the 2013.
2014 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon Cuvée Guy Moreau
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Magnum. Greenish yellow. Some sulfur. Nice sweet pear, light oaky foundation, very good acidity, some salinity and soil. Not as crisp or intense as I would expect from this vintage. Too loose and rich.
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2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon Cuvée Guy Moreau
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Magnum. Deeper yellow. Slightly lactic, funky aromas. Medium+ weight. Apple fruit, excessive oak, good acidity and soil, dry finish from the wood. Both vintages had too much oak, this even more so than the 2014.
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2019 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédience
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Light greenish yellow. Fresh citrus and light oak on the nose. Medium bodied. Creamy, overly oaked base. Round orchard fruit, oyster shell, average acidity, excellent soil to finish. Some nice components but where is the tension?
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2009 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédience
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Yellow, a little remaining green. Bitter citrus aromas. Medium+ weight. Relatively fresh, rich with some vanilla, excellent soil and salinity, but soft acidity does not provide enough shape. This is in fine condition, but too much wood and too little zestiness. Dull.
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2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Yellow/green. Algal tones. Medium body. Wonderful feel with only a trace of wood. Complex, low key stone fruit and citrus, excellent soil, very good acidity, and a bit of vanilla at the end. Long and fluid, some back end firmness and bite. Excellent result.
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2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Again, greenish yellow, fairly youthful color. Fragrant flowers, oyster shell, and dull citrus. Excellent Chablis mix of fruit, savory elements, soil, and excellent acidity. Light woodiness, excellent structure for the year, shorter than the 2012.
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2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Yellow, still some green. Citrus and salinity on the nose. Elegant medium to lighter weight. Bright, cri lime and lemon, outstanding acidity, excellent late soil, and the barest touch of vanilla. Refreshingly young and the closest thing to brisk I tasted all day. Not only was this far and away the finest Chablis, but it was one of the best white wines on a day when so many examples were too fat, woody, or both.
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2019 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Fresh herbs and flowers. Light reduction. Medium body. Citrus and apple jelly, very good acidity but excellent acidity with lots of back end soil. Really fine and dry.
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2018 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Riper apple tones, slight reduction. Nice round sweet fruit, more oak than the 2019, good acidity, shorter finish. Too much wood and one of the more plodding bottles of Lamy I’ve had.
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2015 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Magnum. Full yellow. Low pitched aromas. Medium to full, sappy feel. Citrus and apple, very good acidity, but the excellent minerality and soil I expect of this producer. The wood is more discrete and toned down. Excellent concentration, natural sweetness, and length. The best and liveliest of the 3 vintages.
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2019 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Light yellow. Herb, ripe citrus, and faint reduction. Ripe, rich orchard fruit atop a moderately woody base. Very good acidity, long soil finish. Silky, sappy feel with obvious oak at this point.
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2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Same color as the 2019. More wood aromas. Round, loose, sweet. Fruit is blurry and the finish cut off by the oak. No Saint Aubin minerality or cut.
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2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Light yellow. Fragrant, lemony, light reductive notes. Lighter weight. Excellent stony base, a bit of vanilla, tart citrus, excellent acidity. I like the elegance and balance. This is the best of the trio and more typical of the appellation, but this year’s PYCM wines didn’t cover themselves in glory.
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2019 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grande Montagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pale. Toasty and reductive. Round ripe apple, some oak, outstanding texture and soil, very good acidity, long lemony finish. Excellent but wood and reduction to deal with.
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2018 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grande Montagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. More oak, light reduction. Apple jelly, soil, and wood. Less layered and textural than the 2019 and lower intensity. Good acidic finish. Okay, no more than that.
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2016 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grande Montagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Light toasty oak, pungent fruit aromas. Light to medium body. Discrete oak. Bright lemony fruit, better acidity than the younger wines. Excellent and the best of the vintages shown, but I’m concerned that the wood sticks out too much. The Pillot wines were also disappointing today and hardly worth the high praise or high price that they routinely fetch. All of them were too rich and diffuse to some extent.
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2018 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Pale. Light wood and pear. Discretely sweet orchard fruit and well weighted oak. Long, glycerine, deep soil, moderate acidity, still slightly austere finish. Lovely and everything in balance. To my surprise, the strongest of the vertical selection.
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2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light yellow. Light oak toast. Lighter than the 2018. Woody base, less well defined fruit, excellent bright acidity and soil. Relatively elegant, some vanillin on the finish, very fluid across the palate. I liked it even more several years ago when I found the wood treatment less impactful.
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2015 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Yellow greenish. Even more woodspice aromas than the 2017. Round, rich glycerine oaky entry. More pear than citrus. Again, some vanilla tones late. What bothers me about this and the 2017 is that the oak seems more noticeable now compared to previous tastings. To me this is the wrong direction and it makes me wonder if the fruit has the necessary staying power. Disappointing results from a producer I’ve really enjoyed in the past.
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2019 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Pale yellow. Reduced aromas. Middle weight. Sappy sweet apple, soft soil, excellent acidity, and minimal wood. Pleasingly tart finish. Excellent overall.
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2018 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Riper stone fruit and citrus mix. Very good concentration, acidity, length, and soil. This might even turn out better than the 2019 over time.
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2017 Domaine Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow. Toastiness and reduction. Medium+ body. Sappy and very oaky. Pear and soil. Finish shortened by reduction and too much wood. Not much to like here.
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2015 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Just oak on the nose. Rich, long, textural, and spicy, but lower acidity and difficult to discern fruit. Later there is vanillin, drying wood, and even some light char. Completely overdone and out of balance.
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2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Less oak on the nose, more citrus. Nice sweet fruit, measured cooperage, more soil, and excellent lemony acidity. Much more convincing balance and a big relief after the ponderous 2015.
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2019 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Low pitched nose. Medium weight. Sweet apple on the attack, lovely intertwined earth, solid acidity. Great texture from concentrated fruit rather than from wood treatment. Long, persistent, and very well balanced. My favorite of the trio today.
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2017 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Light yellow. Herb and citrus mix. Sappy, sweet entry, and then boom, a tidal wave of oak. Better and more promising 5 years ago.
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2004 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Magnum. Yellow. Prominent wood scents but surprisingly, not representative of the palate, which has round pear fruit, excellent acidity, very good soil, and excellent length and structure. Some attractive citrus arrives late. In fine form and I enjoyed it much more than the 2017. Different wine making regime and style I guess.
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2017 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Floral with light toasty tones. Medium light, elegant line. Bitter citrus, excellent acidity, lovely balance, some cinnamon. Best of all the Meursaults tasted although I couldn’t find the legendary Perrières minerality. I also liked it when I tasted it last year.
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2000 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Fuller yellow. Mature, truffled aromas. Medium weight. Pear fruit, light application of wood, stony underpinning-finally some minerality! Secondary, moderate length, excellent acidity, bright back end citrus. Very enjoyable even if past its peak.
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2018 Pierre Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Yellow. Citrus, pear, wood, some reduction. Medium weight, toasty. Excellent citrus attack, very good acidity, but then it drops off, subsumed by drying wood tannins and a harsher mouth feel.
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2020 Pierre Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Yellow. Also slightly reduced. Medium+ body. Similar toasty aspect, but the citrus is deeper and more vibrant and the texture somewhat creamier. A step ahead of the 2018 but still marred by reduction and injudicious oak which both stunt the finish.
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2022 Pierre Girardin Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Light yellow. Toasty notes and fresh orchard fruit. Medium weight. Dry, serious, subtly leesy. Less citrus than the 2020, less layered, and rendered slightly bitter from the wood. Not great. After tasting through the range, I have a hard time seeing the Girardin Batards as anything but below average Côte de Beaune Grand Crus which offer extremely little value for the exorbitant price. Beyond dismaying.
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2018 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Light color. Combination of citrus and reduction. Linear. Great vibrant citrus, soil, and a touch of vanilla bean. Excellent and long.
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2016 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
More toasty nose. More glycerine than the 2018. Creamy citrus, outstanding bright acidity, long soil infused finish. Elegant, excellent cut.
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2014 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Subtle leesy nose. Medium- weight but still concentrated and creamy. Bitter citrus, excellent acidity. Less oak and less voluminous than the younger 2 vintages, but so refined, supremely elegant, and beautifully detailed. Best white wine of this tasting, and compared to the Girardin Batard, it emphasizes a “less is more” winemaking mentality. Pure and just lovely.
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2017 Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light ruby. Ripe fruit aromas. Medium weight. Earthy red fruit, fine acidity, tannic, mineral finish, average intensity.
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2015 Domaine Clos de la Chapelle Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Ruby core. Citrus and reduction which fruit. Medium weight but quite penetrating. Nicely tart and full of soil. Fine, long tannic finish. Youthful with excellent promise. Clearly ahead of the 2017.
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2019 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Gentle herbs and soil on the nose. Medium weight. Poised, pungent, ripe red fruit transitioning to a sweep of fine soil, excellent acidity, and a lingering tannic finish. Subtle vin de terroir. Just loved this.
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2009 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Also pale color. Mostly soil tones. Some sweet red fruit on the entry, then tangy citricity, warm earth, late spiciness, and fine grained tannins. Refined, beautiful fruit/soil interplay, and not a bit too ripe despite the vintage. Another beauty.
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2003 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light ruby core. Hint of superripe fruit and spices. Medium- body. A burst of tart fruit followed by fresh acidity, a squeeze of orange, and loads of soil. Still some drying tannins to resolve, but at 22 years of age, there is still enough fruit to stand up to them for some years. Very successful 2003.
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2019 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Red. Ripe fruit and tilled earth. Medium to full bodied, full of sap. Bright, lively, citric with gorgeous round red fruit and balancing menthol. Excellent verve. Tannic for sure but not at all austere. Moderately long finish. Already delicious but will ascend over the next few decades. Outstanding wine, terrific stuffing.
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2009 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Pale, early browning. Spiced red fruit and lighter soil. Medium weight. Gently sweet attack, great sense of soil, fine acidity, and moderately grippy tannins. A little sap and outstanding earth/fruit complexity. Sweet and savory flavors that only Burgundian Pinot Noir can provide. I’ve loved this wine each time I’ve had it. Now finally reaching maturity.
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1999 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Ruby almost to the rim. Wintergreen scents. Medium weight, excellent texture and light sap on the attack, but then harsh, high acidity, stemmy, and dry. This is old school Faiveley and not nearly as giving or pliant as the 2 younger vintages. These days, you don’t find many young Cortons that are as severe as this is.
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2019 Benjamin Leroux Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Light, dull ruby. Green herb and radiant red berry. Medium bodied, beautiful underpinning of soil. Tart red fruit, excellent acidity, some whole cluster complexity, citrus, and moderately tannic finish. Discretely ripe, lovely balance, outstanding young Nuits.
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2017 Benjamin Leroux Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Light char on the nose. Elegant medium weight. Not as ripe as the 2019, but seductive dark fruit, some soil, and excellent citric acidity. Gentle, long lightly tannic finish. Already charming and excellent with the balance to improve from here.
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2015 Benjamin Leroux Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru
Ruby. Fragrant candied fruit. Medium+ weight. Biggest, sappiest, and least elegant of these wines. Perfectly ripe dark cherry, excellent acidity and thread of soil, round substantial tannin. Young and harmonious, but a big boy that needs an additional 5 to 10 years to shed its fat and develop more complexity.
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2017 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Pale. Oak, char, and a bit of caramel. Light to medium body, some sap. Dull blue and red fruit, smokiness, fine acidity and soil, moderately austere, tannic finish.
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2016 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Pale. Fragrant. Medium to light weight but sappier than the 2017. Dull cherry, black fruit and soil. Clenched tannins. Seemingly more locked up than when tasted last year.
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2015 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Light ruby. Wood and deeper pitched fruit on the nose. Medium+ weight-the biggest, richest, and sappiest of these wines trio of Suchots. More open dark cherry, citrus, moderate earth, and round, deep tannins. Showing a lot already, but give it another 10 years for full expression.
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2013 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Magnum. Dull ruby core. Spice and menthol, quite perfumed. Subtly ripe dull cherry and strawberry. Light and elegant. Long soil base, excellent acidity, earthy, grainy tannins that dry the finish. Very good terroir wine.
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2011 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Magnum. Pale ruby. More fennel. Delicate light to medium weight. Less fruit than the 2013, lean, stemmy, rough finish. Unattractive.
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2009 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Very pale. Christmas spice. Medium to light body. Elegant, citric, supple lightly ripe red fruit, fine acidity and earth, gentle soil infused tannins. Excellent, just about ready, and the best of the 3 vintages shown.
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2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Faded ruby. Sweet fruit aromas. Medium weight. Sophisticated fruit, citric, bright, lots of soil and tannin. Excellent today but still needs many years of aging.
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2018 Domaine Y. Clerget Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Ruby. Ripe red fruit and spice on the nose. Medium body, lovely sappy feel. More earthy, tannic, and closed than the 2017, but excellent length and should be excellent in due time.
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2019 Domaine Y. Clerget Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Lighter weight. On the palate, soil filled and citric, but the rest of the fruit is in the background. Less plush and more tannic than the 2018. Needs a good 15 years. Hard to say much more than that today. Properly rugged Clos Vougeot.
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2019 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Dull light ruby. Oak char and dark red fruit aromas rich, round, sappy attack with red and blue fruit, some stem notes, long soil, and moderate wood. Larger scaled and serious with strong soil and an austere finish. Clearly outstanding but this will surely shut down further before it fully blossoms.
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2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Cooler green aromas and less fruit than the 2019. Lighter weight. Subtly sweet dull red fruit, char, excellent acidity, very fine soil. Drying tannins. This too is excellent but much more closed than 5 years ago. Needs 10 or more years.
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2015 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Beautiful, forthcoming ripe mixed fruit and citrus. Bright, gushing aromas. Medium weight, sappy and flowing across the palate. Dark fruit and soil, less stemmy than the 2017, rounder tannins, long citric structured finish. Beautiful, maybe a half step behind the 2019 for me, but at this level of quality, who’s counting?
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2014 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby core. Sweet ripe red fruit and char. Medium+ body. Sappy, earthy deep dark fruit, light soil vein, excellent citric acidity, and then dry tannins. Outstanding and a real success for the year, but it could still benefit from another 10 years.
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2015 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Garnet. Fragrant green stem notes. Lovely earthy feel on the entry with tart dark red fruit, high acidity, strong green herb, and lower tannins. Lots of soil and a surprising amount of cooler elements in this ripe year. At least excellent and probably better than that with more time.
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2016 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Fragrant and cooler and greener than the 2015. Medium to light weight. Subdued black fruit, high acidity, deep soil, and harsh tannins. Little charm now and too lean for its own good. This had much more flesh and interest 6 years ago. Has it dropped its fruit or is it just extremely grumpy now?
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2017 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale. Ripe red berry and lighter green tones. Medium weight with a carressing, lightly sappy feel. Excellent red fruit/soil balance, average acidity, round but firm tannins. Low pitched, serious, excellent, and more to come.
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2010 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby, faded rim. Fascinating aromas of mint, game, and dark fruit. Medium body. Great balance of fruit, savory, and soil with a long, earthy mouth feel. Moderately tannic with some mild austerity to resolve. Outstanding wine.
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2006 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale, browning. Secondary fruit aromas and sous bois. Medium to lighter weight. Supple, soil filled, light sap. Faded fruit, average acidity, and gentle but still present tannins. Mature, lovely, could remain at this level for another 3 to 5 years but not for longer term aging.
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2017 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Dull light ruby. Green notes and oak. Medium body. Citrus and red fruit, lively acidity, light earthy, tannic finish. Dry now, needs time.
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2015 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light dull ruby. Wood and red fruit aromas. Medium weight. Sappier and sweeter than the 2017. Dark cherry, char, excellent acidity, a touch of citrus, light soil. Dry finish but less tannic than the younger vintage. More modern style but excellent nonetheless.
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2012 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale ruby. Earth and menthol. Light to medium weight. Tart red fruit, gentle line of soil, lower acid, and fine long tannins. Very good but looser and not as well defined as the 2015.
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2019 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby core. Ripe red berry fruit and spice. Medium body. Sweet red fruit attack, not as much soil as in the Dujac wines. Bright, citric, moderate refined tannins. Early days but delicious.
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2018 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby. Reduced nose. Medium body, less harmonious feel than the 2019. More black fruit, excellent acidity, slightly green, dry, furry tannins. Not very forthcoming today and somewhat harsh. Right now does not have the usual Fourrier profile, but this will take a lot of time to sort itself out.
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2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale center. Cool green aromas. Light body. A bit of sweet berry with a light veneer of sap but mostly tilled soil and moderate tannins. Elegant, restrained, and refined, neither flashy nor fleshy. A second taste revealed more of the beautiful Fourrier sweetness of fruit. Excellent.
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2012 David Duband Latricières-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Magnum. Pale, slight browning. Fragrant soil and green herb. Medium to lighter weight. Supple flowing feel. Earth, dull red fruit, fine acidity, a hint of anise, low tannins. Really good, mature lighter Gevrey Grand Cru.
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2013 David Duband Latricières-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Dull light ruby. Fennel. Light. Dry and earthy. Some dull red fruit, tannic finish. This lacks the gentle sweetness and soil/fruit balance of the 2012. Good at best.
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2014 David Duband Latricières-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very pale. Overtly stemmy. Light weight. A surprising initial burst of tart fruit, but rapidly overtaken by dry soil and tannic grip. I fear that this too will turn out to be too severe and underfruited like the 2013.
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