Terroir-istes International - Italy, Bolgheri
Anwilka, Stellenbosch
Tasted Monday, May 6, 2024 by rikipedia with 90 views
Introduction
Bolgheri is nestled along Tuscany's coastline and its maritime terroir has rapidly ascended to join some of the most prestigious winemaking areas of the world—remarkable for a region that barely registered on the fine wine map just half a century ago.
Unlike many of Italy's wine regions with centuries of winemaking tradition, Bolgheri's rise to prominence represents one of modern wine history's more dramatic success stories. Situated on the Tuscan coast at a low altitude, the region's Mediterranean climate—moderated by cooling sea breezes—creates an environment distinctly different from Tuscany's celebrated inland appellations.
For generations, this coastal strip produced unremarkable wines of little distinction. This changed in 1944 when Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon on his Tenuta San Guido estate, inspired by the great wines of Bordeaux. His experimental wine, Sassicaia (meaning "place of many stones"), was initially produced only for family consumption, with the 1967 vintage marking its first commercial release. This departure from Tuscan tradition—favouring Bordeaux varieties over Indigenous grapes—would ultimately redefine Italian fine wine.
The watershed moment for Bolgheri came in 1978, when Decanter magazine organized a blind tasting featuring Sassicaia's 1972 vintage—then largely unknown internationally—alongside established fine wines. Sassicaia's remarkable performance against prestigious Bordeaux first growths sent shockwaves through the wine world, drawing unprecedented attention to this coastal Tuscan territory and inspiring a wave of investment and viticultural development.
Terroir and Grape Varieties
Bolgheri's terroir is characterized by its proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Vineyards range from sea level to about 400 metres on the gentle slopes of the coastal hills. The soils vary considerably, featuring alluvial deposits, marine sediments, and the stony, well-draining conditions that inspired Sassicaia's name.
Bolgheri has embraced international varieties over indigenous grapes, unlike most renowned Tuscan regions. Today, Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the landscape, followed by significant plantings of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, which thrive in the maritime climate. Remarkably, Sangiovese—Tuscany's signature grape—represents a mere 1.2% of plantings, underscoring Bolgheri's distinctive approach.
White wine production accounts for approximately 13% of Bolgheri's output, with Vermentino leading the way at about 10% of total plantings, complemented by smaller amounts of Sauvignon Blanc (approximately 1%) and other white varieties. These whites typically express a distinctive minerality and freshness attributed to the sea's influence.
Recognition and Classification
Bolgheri's meteoric rise in prestige was formally recognized in 1983 with the establishment of the Bolgheri DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). In a testament to its exceptional quality and unique identity, Sassicaia achieved a remarkable distinction in 2006 by receiving its own dedicated DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita)—the only wine in Italy with this honour—effectively creating a "wine of a wine" designation within the Bolgheri appellation.
Vintage Excellence
Among Bolgheri's standout vintages, 2016 is regarded as exceptional, producing wines of remarkable balance, structure, and ageing potential. The 2010 vintage also holds special significance, delivering wines of extraordinary depth and elegance that continue evolving beautifully.
2016 Tenuta San Guido Le Difese Toscana IGT 88 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
(Tasted Blind): Mid brick in colour. The nose has tar, cedarwood, liquorice, tomato leaf, steeped black cherry, orange oil towards dried tangerine skin, and a touch of reduction with brake dust/engine oil. An attractive entry of sweet fruit shows dried orange, tomato purée, redcurrant, sour cherry, and light spice. It has a warming alcohol sensation that rises towards the back palate and protrudes with a cayenne spice quality. Gravelly, fibrous tannins give some frame.
A blend of 70% CS; 30% Sangiovese
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2016 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT 89 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
(Tasted Blind): Deep garnet in colour. The nose reveals gorgeous earth and dried fruit aromas, complemented by spiced orange, light vanilla and warmed black cherry, with a touch of pencil lead. As it opens, it reveals carrion and some musty oak. A rich, intense entry with a lively acid but also a touch of oxidation, but not distracting. Nicely balanced, the wine is savoury-inclined and quite refined with notes of blood orange, spiced Cointreau, cherry preserve, liquorice and orange liqueur.
A mid-length finish with a persistent warming sensation augments the somewhat puckering and chewy tannins but just about works.
Blend of CS and Merlot. 14% ABV.
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2016 Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore 94 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
(Tasted Blind): Mid garnet in colour. A deep, fragrant, and attractive nose of leather, earth, dried sage, blackberry, dark chocolate, tomato box, and liquorice. As it opened, it started showing new oak nuances of macchiato foam, wood spice, coffee grinds, and a trace of vanilla. A ripe, intense palate that is full-bodied, plush and well-made, balanced by a notable freshness of citric elements such as blood orange and grapefruit as it segues to those vibrant blackberry and dark plum qualities (some red berries here too) all cushioned by a velvety texture that has a gorgeous chocolatey and creamy macchiato foam texture with a slight lemony edge - reminds me of Ethiopian coffee. There is a gleaming presentation of this layered wine with rendered filigree tannins that are long and luxuriant as it glides across the palate. This is a joyful wine with a fantastic aesthetic and purity of fruit!
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese.
Grattamacco was founded in 1977
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2018 Poggio al Tesoro Bolgheri il seggio 88 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri
(Tasted Blind): Deep garnet in colour, the nose is still a little shy, but with agitation, there are aromas of wafer biscuit, musty cedar oak, pencil shavings, chocolate flakes, blackberry and bilberry with a touch of liquorice. This is a full-bodied, focused wine with a lively acidity and initial flavours of smoke, dried oranges, tangerine peel and some black plums with coffee grinds and a lick of vanilla. While there is some concentration and depth, there is a charred berry character, and the wine feels hot and bothered with notes of paprika spice and hot gravel with some dried wood qualities. Muscular and chalky tannins become drier as the wine opens, slightly diminishing the finish. Didn't quite feel balanced.
14.5% ABV; Blend of 50% Merlot; 20% CS; 20% CF and 10%?
Sourced from vineyards near the Seggio river, on clay soils.
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