Jonathan's 2017 Burg check-in

2017 whites are a sure-thing, and the reds are delicious too... aren't they?

An old-school approach - six diners, eight bottles of Burgundy, ALC food at a wine-friendly restaurant - seemed an excellent way to test the hypothesis.

• 2017 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  A depth of golden colour that suggested this wine had evolved, but it certainly wasn't showing any tiredness. Fairly weighty reduction on the nose, accompanied by a weight of lush fruit. Some confit lemon and a sense of detail. Upon taking the first sip, my immediate reaction was: god that's mouthwatering! Ripe, vibrant and filled the mouth, though still in a classical register, and with excellent length. My #3 tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Santenay 1er Cru La Comme Blanc 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru

  Much paler than the Niellon, and a fair bit more youthful - although, surprisingly, not the more reductive of the pair. Really complex, crystalline, compelling nose, with lime zest, lemon barley water, icing sugar and smoke. Zingy, even electric on the palate, with bright grapefuit and an oily, weighty richness. Rather, rather good. For me a hair behind the Niellon, but this was the group's #3 tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2017 Francois Gay Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

  Sweet strawberry-dominant nose, verging on hard candy, with a brambly edge. Grippy, even stemmy, on the palate, with a bitterness that spoke of Burgundy. Good lift and definition, and decent length. Arguably the weakest of tonight's reds in a strong field, and definitely the most rustic, but also the most unmistakeably Burgundian; I really enjoyed it.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No

• 2017 Domaine Tawse Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  First time trying a (semi?) mature Tawse from the new school, and not disappointed. Lots of subtle, attractive red fruit on the nose, with some musk to add intrigue. Good depth of fruit on the palate, which kept building in the mouth and had excellent purity and balance, and a lovely fresh finish. 50% whole bunch, but this wasn't evident. My #2 tonight and the group's joint #3.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2017 Gilbert et Christine Felettig Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Remember liking this so much at an EP tasting that I bought a six-pack, and so I was delighted when someone suggested bringing this to the dinner. It's already an excellent wine, but feels young and I think there's more to come. Some oak on the nose, and rich confit red fruit; it felt well-defined and exciting. Sweetish darker fruit on the palate, giving the impression of being smooth and well-made as well as clean and fresh in the 2017 idiom. So easy to enjoy, and the group's #2 tonight.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2017 Gilbert et Christine Felettig Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  My bottle. I liked this wine a lot (like all the wines tonight), but I'm glad I went longer on the Gruenchers. Notably reductive nose, with a hint of truffle. Much more savoury than the Gruenchers, although the dryness ameliorated over time as the subdued red fruit showed itself and became inreasingly tasty. Quite grippy and chewy, and needs time, but already a lot of fun with my hogget dish.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2017 Domaine Amiot et Fils Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  Soft, ethereal, fluffy red-fruited nose that was seasoned with a cidery edge. Floral and rather sexy. Deep, sensual red fruit on the palate, and bright acidity that provided sufficient structure. This wine (along with the Tawse?) was probably readiest of tonight's reds, and may not be for the long haul, but it was so enjoyable tonight. My and group's #1.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2017 Domaine Stephane Magnien Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Faconnières 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru

  Rather ripe on the nose, but also a sense of starkness, with a waft of something animale, and curiously sweet/sour too. Seemed on the young side, as it was a bit blocky upon first pouring, but had increasing depth and cohesion with air, turning into another really enjoyable wine - and one that showed a hell of a lot better than a bottle three months ago.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

Never in doubt! The wines were delightful, and had plenty of substance too. I'd be getting stuck into the whites now (indeed I am!), whilst most of the better reds will go for another 15-20 years despite their seductiveness.