Nebbiolo 2004 Tasting

Higher end Nebbiolo 2004 blind tasting, with two bottlings from Gaja. Three Barolo, three Barbaresco wines.

• 2004 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Opens with stunning aromatics—a beautiful mix of dried rose petals, potpourri, and fresh florals, lifted by notes of tar, balsamic, and classic tertiary complexity. The palate shows both red and black cherry, and dark fruit leather, all in a restrained, traditional Barolo frame—not showy, but deep and evocative. However, with time in the glass, the wine loses focus: the fruit recedes, the nose fades, and green, vegetal notes emerge. What begins with great promise ultimately unravels, suggesting possible bottle fatigue or an awkward phase.

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• 2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Nieve 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  A classic expression that’s still remarkably tight despite its age. Aromatically elegant, with lifted notes of dried rose petals, spice, and pure cherry fruit. The palate is marked by high, grippy tannins and vibrant freshness, giving it a firm, age-worthy frame. With time in the glass, it becomes more approachable, showing flashes of softness, but it never fully opens up. Still, the elegance and structure are unmistakable—a wine built for the long haul, just beginning to hint at its potential.

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• 2004 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Conteisa 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Beautifully resolved and in a perfect place right now. Silky tannins, high acidity, and a seamless balance give this wine an effortlessly elegant feel. The palate shows a refined mix of sour cherry, rose petals, and a touch of tar and earthy mushrooms, adding just enough depth without weight. Fresh, graceful, and consistent throughout the tasting, it never falters—just pure finesse. A wine of harmony and quiet power, and my clear favorite from the 2004 Nebbiolo lineup.

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• 2004 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì San Lorenzo 95 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Opens with intensity and restraint—grippy tannins, a touch of heat, and a compact structure that speaks to its youth, despite its age. The aromatics are striking: rose petals, violets, black cherry, and red plum, with a cool, floral elegance. With time in the glass, the wine begins to unfold: tannins soften slightly, and tertiary notes of asphalt, tar, spice, wood, and a touch of smoke start to integrate. Still, the wine remains quite tight and inward-looking, suggesting it’s far from its peak and demands more cellaring to show its full depth and dimension.

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• 2004 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Flawed

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  This bottle showed some signs of premature oxidation (maderization) on opening, with vegetal notes, licorice, and nutty tones dominating initially. With air, it began to improve—cherry fruit emerged, along with delicate rose petals and classic tar aromatics. Still, it never fully opened up or reached the expressiveness expected from this vintage and producer. Likely bottle variation, but disappointing in this showing.

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• 2004 Pio Cesare Barbaresco 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Bold and aromatically intense from the start. Dominated by black cherry, black raspberry, and dark fruit leather, framed by layers of tar, asphalt, and iron, with hints of mint, licorice, and a savory, sanguine edge. The wine is floral yet brooding, with high, grippy tannins and a firm core. Initially tight, but gains freshness and clarity with air. A powerful, structured Barbaresco that still feels young—built for long aging and rewarding patience.

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Tasted blind, and Gaja's both wines were the winners, with Conteisa being the most drinkable and pleasant of the flight. Unfortunately, Mascarello was a bit maderized. In general, most of these are still pretty tight and grippy, and would need more time even at more than 20 years of age.