Red Burgundy @ Vineyard Gate

Another great lineup of 2005 Burgundies. Two things about this tasting. First, I'm reminded how much Burgundy demands a taster's full attention. I initially thought that the first wine's nose was closed, inaccessible. However, once I returned after tasting the rest of the flight, there was of course a tremendous amount going on. My problem was that the wines I have been drinking for the past couple of weeks have either been showy whites or heavy Cotes du Rhones. I didn't have myself dialed to consider the full, subtle complexity great Burgundy is capable of.

Second, the greatness and consistency of the 2005 vintage allows the differences between the vineyards to reveal themselves. The differences between Ladoix, Aloxe-Corton, Volnay and Nuits-Saint-Georges couldn't be clearer--if you're paying attention.

• 2005 Edmond Cornu & Fils Ladoix Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Ladoix

  Nose of earth, stone, and red fruit. Palate is light to medium bodied, layered and complex. Good tannic grip with adequate acid. Very good. From 2014 at the earliest.

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• 2005 Edmond Cornu & Fils Aloxe-Corton Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton

  A deeper fruit nose here with decent complexity. Strong mid-palate with cherry flavors. Sharp, wound up and tight. Moderate complexity. From 2015

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• 2005 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Carelle Sous la Chapelle 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Beautiful perfume--even now--of strawberry, rose petals and spice. Refined and seductive with strong mid-palate attack. Great concentration, tannins present but not at all harsh. This is a true beauty that will reward those who wait. From 2018 at the earliest.

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• 2003 Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Nose of forest, spice, red fruit and an interesting smell of dry dog food (not bad, though). Meaty, fruity palate with only moderate complexity. Close now, but will be ready to fully enjoy in a couple years for its purely hedonistic character.

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• 2005 Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  Nose of refined fruit and spice with, like the 2003, an interesting dog kibble character. Refined and complex, but not profound. From 2015.

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