18x Mature Bordeaux Legends (+2x Napa)

Tasted Sunday, April 13, 2025 by Cailles with 232 views

Flight 1 (20 Notes)

  • 1948 Pétrus 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Tasting five mature Pétrus magnums in one sitting sets high expectations, especially when most bottles come from legendary vintages. In the end, it was a mixed performance, as it often is with Pétrus for me — a few truly great, transcendent wines marked by intoxicating fruit and deep umami, alongside others that fell short. The 1970 stood out as an absolute stunner, one of the best wines I have ever had. A clear 100-point wine, with maximum complexity, laser-sharp precision, hedonistic depth, and flawless balance. The 1961 (94pts) was a very good wine, but showed a muted nose and lacked the substance and definition of the 1970. The 1982 (92pts) needed time and air to come together. While pleasant and enjoyable, it did not reach the level of greatness expected from the vintage. The 1948 (91pts) had an almost perfect and unique nose, but the palate had little life left. The 1953 was unfortunately corked and undrinkable. A fascinating lineup, but also a reminder that Pétrus is never a guarantee, even in the greatest of vintages.

    TN: The nose is intoxicating, showing classic aged wine character with tobacco, meat, malt, and dark fruit, later evolving into sweet blue fruit reminiscent of Le Pin and perfect strawberries. Utterly complex, harmonious, and fresh. The palate, however, does not quite match. It shows less freshness and clarity, with a bit of thinning from the mid-palate onward and lacking the same aromatic pressure. The acidity stands out and the structure is noticeably weaker than the nose would suggest. 98/99pts for the nose, the palate was probably at 87pts.

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  • 1953 Pétrus Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Tasting five mature Pétrus magnums in one sitting sets high expectations, especially when most bottles come from legendary vintages. In the end, it was a mixed performance, as it often is with Pétrus for me — a few truly great, transcendent wines marked by intoxicating fruit and deep umami, alongside others that fell short. The 1970 stood out as an absolute stunner, one of the best wines I have ever had. A clear 100-point wine, with maximum complexity, laser-sharp precision, hedonistic depth, and flawless balance. The 1961 (94pts) was a very good wine, but showed a muted nose and lacked the substance and definition of the 1970. The 1982 (92pts) needed time and air to come together. While pleasant and enjoyable, it did not reach the level of greatness expected from the vintage. The 1948 (91pts) had an almost perfect and unique nose, but the palate had little life left. The 1953 was unfortunately corked and undrinkable. A fascinating lineup, but also a reminder that Pétrus is never a guarantee, even in the greatest of vintages.

    TN: The nose is muted, with notes of minerality, medicinal tones, and wet cardboard, suggesting TCA contamination. The TCA becomes more pronounced with time. The palate is thin and likewise shows signs of taint. A flawed bottle.

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  • 1961 Pétrus 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Tasting five mature Pétrus magnums in one sitting sets high expectations, especially when most bottles come from legendary vintages. In the end, it was a mixed performance, as it often is with Pétrus for me — a few truly great, transcendent wines marked by intoxicating fruit and deep umami, alongside others that fell short. The 1970 stood out as an absolute stunner, one of the best wines I have ever had. A clear 100-point wine, with maximum complexity, laser-sharp precision, hedonistic depth, and flawless balance. The 1961 (94pts) was a very good wine, but showed a muted nose and lacked the substance and definition of the 1970. The 1982 (92pts) needed time and air to come together. While pleasant and enjoyable, it did not reach the level of greatness expected from the vintage. The 1948 (91pts) had an almost perfect and unique nose, but the palate had little life left. The 1953 was unfortunately corked and undrinkable. A fascinating lineup, but also a reminder that Pétrus is never a guarantee, even in the greatest of vintages.

    TN: The nose is not fully open, with a dark fruit core and earthy notes. With air, more herbal and umami aromas develop. The palate brings fine red berries, herbal tones, umami, and earth, all in a round, refined frame. It lacks the substance and power of the top bottles, but offers graceful elegance and growing sweetness with time. 94/95pts.

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  • 1970 Pétrus 100 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Tasting five mature Pétrus magnums in one sitting sets high expectations, especially when most bottles come from legendary vintages. In the end, it was a mixed performance, as it often is with Pétrus for me — a few truly great, transcendent wines marked by intoxicating fruit and deep umami, alongside others that fell short. The 1970 stood out as an absolute stunner, one of the best wines I have ever had. A clear 100-point wine, with maximum complexity, laser-sharp precision, hedonistic depth, and flawless balance. The 1961 (94pts) was a very good wine, but showed a muted nose and lacked the substance and definition of the 1970. The 1982 (92pts) needed time and air to come together. While pleasant and enjoyable, it did not reach the level of greatness expected from the vintage. The 1948 (91pts) had an almost perfect and unique nose, but the palate had little life left. The 1953 was unfortunately corked and undrinkable. A fascinating lineup, but also a reminder that Pétrus is never a guarantee, even in the greatest of vintages.

    TN: The nose is incredible, with sweet dark fruit, red berries, and tobacco, all delivered with intoxicating depth and seduction. With time, malty notes add even more complexity, pushing the nose to perfection. The palate is perfect as well, combining red and blue fruit, medicinal notes, tobacco, chocolate, and subtle meaty tones, along with intoxicating malt aromas. The structure is harmonious and seamless, with fully melted tannins, superb freshness, and a long, seductive finish. Rich yet elegant, this is a monumental Pétrus.

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  • 1982 Pétrus 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Tasting five mature Pétrus magnums in one sitting sets high expectations, especially when most bottles come from legendary vintages. In the end, it was a mixed performance, as it often is with Pétrus for me — a few truly great, transcendent wines marked by intoxicating fruit and deep umami, alongside others that fell short. The 1970 stood out as an absolute stunner, one of the best wines I have ever had. A clear 100-point wine, with maximum complexity, laser-sharp precision, hedonistic depth, and flawless balance. The 1961 (94pts) was a very good wine, but showed a muted nose and lacked the substance and definition of the 1970. The 1982 (92pts) needed time and air to come together. While pleasant and enjoyable, it did not reach the level of greatness expected from the vintage. The 1948 (91pts) had an almost perfect and unique nose, but the palate had little life left. The 1953 was unfortunately corked and undrinkable. A fascinating lineup, but also a reminder that Pétrus is never a guarantee, even in the greatest of vintages.

    TN: The nose starts muted and slightly green, with dark fruit and mineral tones and little definition. With time, the wine improves, revealing red berries, some sweetness, and better integration, though the green notes never fully disappear. The palate is fine but simple, a solid wine but not a great Petrus.

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  • 1934 Château Haut-Brion 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Four magnums of legendary Haut-Brion, and all but one delivered. The classic Haut-Brion signature was unmistakable throughout: high complexity built around layers of tobacco and leather, and a structure that is firm yet silky, weightless yet complete. The top wines were the 1959 (98pts) with a perfect 100pts-palate but a muted nose, and the 1953 (98pts), which was highly complex and ever-expanding. Just behind was the 1949 (97pts), a wine that captured the grace and substance of the vintage beautifully. The only disappointment was the 1934 (88pts), which felt dusty and lacking the depth it should have had. A bottle clearly past its peak.

    TN: The nose is dense and intriguing, with dark, dusty tones, malt, herbs, and black tea, though it lacks some freshness and fruit sweetness. With time, more fruit emerges, but the wine also loses a bit of its density. On the palate, it thins out, though there are still glimpses of underlying substance. Not dead, but past its best.

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  • 1949 Château Haut-Brion 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Four magnums of legendary Haut-Brion, and all but one delivered. The classic Haut-Brion signature was unmistakable throughout: high complexity built around layers of tobacco and leather, and a structure that is firm yet silky, weightless yet complete. The top wines were the 1959 (98pts) with a perfect 100pts-palate but a muted nose, and the 1953 (98pts), which was highly complex and ever-expanding. Just behind was the 1949 (97pts), a wine that captured the grace and substance of the vintage beautifully. The only disappointment was the 1934 (88pts), which felt dusty and lacking the depth it should have had. A bottle clearly past its peak.

    TN: The nose is beautiful, with fresh blue and dark fruit, along with minerality, tobacco, and malty notes. It is delicate rather than explosive, gaining intensity with air. On the palate, it is a bit light in body, yet shows superb clarity, precision, and freshness. The weightlessness and purity of blue fruit are truly remarkable, making it a fine and graceful wine. This bottle is such a perfect encapsulation of the vintage with a mind-bending finesse as the hallmark.

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  • 1953 Château Haut-Brion 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Four magnums of legendary Haut-Brion, and all but one delivered. The classic Haut-Brion signature was unmistakable throughout: high complexity built around layers of tobacco and leather, and a structure that is firm yet silky, weightless yet complete. The top wines were the 1959 (98pts) with a perfect 100pts-palate but a muted nose, and the 1953 (98pts), which was highly complex and ever-expanding. Just behind was the 1949 (97pts), a wine that captured the grace and substance of the vintage beautifully. The only disappointment was the 1934 (88pts), which felt dusty and lacking the depth it should have had. A bottle clearly past its peak.

    TN: The nose opens with black tea, malt, dark fruit, and minerality, showing a slightly aged character but great intrigue. With time, it evolves beautifully with blue fruits and cola, growing in complexity. The palate is dense and melty, yet retains incredible freshness and tension. Notes of blue and red berries, herbs, tea, and cola dominate, loads of tobacco wrapped around it, and the balance is exceptional. Probably the most complete wines of the flight.

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  • 1959 Château Haut-Brion 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Four magnums of legendary Haut-Brion, and all but one delivered. The classic Haut-Brion signature was unmistakable throughout: high complexity built around layers of tobacco and leather, and a structure that is firm yet silky, weightless yet complete. The top wines were the 1959 (98pts) with a perfect 100pts-palate but a muted nose, and the 1953 (98pts), which was highly complex and ever-expanding. Just behind was the 1949 (97pts), a wine that captured the grace and substance of the vintage beautifully. The only disappointment was the 1934 (88pts), which felt dusty and lacking the depth it should have had. A bottle clearly past its peak.

    TN: The nose starts shy and delicate, with malt, dark fruit, herbs, tea, and tobacco. A bit shy overall, not as expressive as it should be. The palate is stunning, absolute perfection, with intense pressure and depth, revealing a wall of dark and red fruit, malty notes, tea, tobacco, leather and minerality. Incredibly complexity and precision. The structure is powerful and complete. The balance impeccable. A truly great bottle.

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  • 1945 Château Mouton Rothschild 99 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Four magnums of Mouton, with all eyes naturally on the 1945 (99pts). Thankfully, it was a great bottle, delivering on every front: expression, depth, and both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure. The other three leaned more toward classic Pauillac than distinctively Mouton, and each had its small flaws. The 1953 (94pts) gained depth with time but remained a bit wild. The 1947 (93pts) was elegant but lacked complexity, and the 1961 (92pts) showed promising elements but was not fully open or defined.

    TN: The nose is intense and expressive, filled with sweet dark fruit, malt, herbs, mint, and chocolate. It evokes the richness and seduction of Pétrus 1970 we had before. The palate matches with deep structure, minty freshness, chocolate, and layered sweetness, all delivered in a frame that remains remarkably youthful and complete. This is a monumental Mouton and an unforgettable bottle. 98/99pts. What was missing for a perfect score? Probably a bit higher precision or just a more emotional reaction.

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  • 1947 Château Mouton Rothschild 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Four magnums of Mouton, with all eyes naturally on the 1945 (99pts). Thankfully, it was a great bottle, delivering on every front: expression, depth, and both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure. The other three leaned more toward classic Pauillac than distinctively Mouton, and each had its small flaws. The 1953 (94pts) gained depth with time but remained a bit wild. The 1947 (93pts) was elegant but lacked complexity, and the 1961 (92pts) showed promising elements but was not fully open or defined.

    TN: The nose is shy and muted, offering just a hint of dark fruit and minerality. The palate is more open, with freshness, fine minerality, dark fruit, and gentle sweetness. While not overly complex, it is well-rounded and elegant. With time, the wine gains more sweetness and charm, showing a delicate evolution in the glass. Overall, this is a very soft and finesse-driven Mouton and very 1949.

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  • 1953 Château Mouton Rothschild 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Four magnums of Mouton, with all eyes naturally on the 1945 (99pts). Thankfully, it was a great bottle, delivering on every front: expression, depth, and both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure. The other three leaned more toward classic Pauillac than distinctively Mouton, and each had its small flaws. The 1953 (94pts) gained depth with time but remained a bit wild. The 1947 (93pts) was elegant but lacked complexity, and the 1961 (92pts) showed promising elements but was not fully open or defined.

    TN: The nose is classic Pauillac, with dark fruit and minerality, though slightly muted at first. On the palate, the wine is more expressive, showing good length, dark fruit, earthy notes, and growing sweetness. It is not perfectly balanced, but shows real charm and evolving richness, becoming sweeter and fuller with air, adding a hint of that extra Mouton charm.

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  • 1961 Château Mouton Rothschild 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Four magnums of Mouton, with all eyes naturally on the 1945 (99pts). Thankfully, it was a great bottle, delivering on every front: expression, depth, and both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure. The other three leaned more toward classic Pauillac than distinctively Mouton, and each had its small flaws. The 1953 (94pts) gained depth with time but remained a bit wild. The 1947 (93pts) was elegant but lacked complexity, and the 1961 (92pts) showed promising elements but was not fully open or defined.

    TN: The nose leans herbal and medicinal, not fully open or harmonious, but showing underlying promise. The palate is structured and clearly Pauillac, with notes of cassis, graphite, and faint red fruit. It is not yet fully expressive, with some edges and limited complexity, but the wine is evolving and should continue to improve with time. A good but not great vintage for Mouton and this bottle was on par with two prior bottles of this vintage (rated 88 and 92pts).

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  • 1961 Vieux Château Certan 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    From magnum. This bottle did not reach the heights of the vintage's greatest successes, but still offered a graceful and lively experience, with a clear sense of maturity and charm, even if not the depth or precision one might wish for from this legendary year.

    TN: The nose is medium in intensity, showing dark fruit, some berries, and hints of chocolate. While inviting, it lacks precision, and with time, green notes begin to emerge. The palate is better, with fine fruit, earthy tones, and a touch of sweetness. It is not particularly complex, but the wine is alive, round, and surprisingly vital at this stage.

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  • 1961 Château Cheval Blanc 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    From magnum. Expectations were naturally high, and this bottle largely delivered – especially on the nose. It may not have shown the focus or depth on the palate of the very top examples, but it still offered all the hallmarks of Cheval, with a beautiful seductive profile.

    TN: The nose is superb, offering a mix of malt, dark fruit, red berries, chocolate, and herbs. The palate continues with mint, sweet red berries, earthy tones, and a soft, smooth texture. The structure is fine and elegant, though the wine leans a bit sweet and slightly thin, missing just a bit clarity and depth to reach an even higher score. Still, it is a very enjoyable bottle, unmistakably Cheval in style and finesse.

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  • 1929 Château Cheval Blanc 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

    From magnum. This Cheval had a fantastic, almost perfect nose with the second wave of tertiary aromas (malt) on full display. On the palate, this bottle had a bit less power and poise but still offered a lot of intellectual pleasure. My guess is that well-stored bottles of this wine should usually show more power and substance than this bottle. Still, quite an amazing wine.

    TN: The nose is classic old wine, with notes of smoke, ash, malt, and honeyed sweetness, forming a deep and intoxicating bouquet. On the palate, the wine is light as a feather, yet shows remarkable tension and transparency, with flavors of cola, fresh blue and red berries, coffee, mushrooms, tobacco, and truffle. While it no longer has the power of the very best, the finesse and complexity remain exceptional. 96/97pts.

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  • 1974 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard 99 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    From magnum. This was outstanding: highly complex and full of tension, with all the intoxicating, unmistakable Martha’s Vineyard aromas. The wine was incredibly fresh and ever evolving, though the bouquet remained just a touch subdued which prevented a perfect score. Compared to previous experiences with this wine, this magnum showed younger, with many years still ahead of it and just a few fewer layers that will only come with additional age. Still, a great, great bottle.

    TN: The nose is intense, layered with dark and red berries, spice, and mint. Very inviting and intoxicating. With time, the wine gains depth, mint, and aromatic definition. The palate is flawless, combining lightness, purity, and layered complexity, driven by red fruit, mint, sweetness, and brilliant freshness. The structure is effortless and complete. Only the slightly shy nose kept it from a perfect score

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  • 1982 Château Latour Grand Vin 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    From magnum. The wine is nowhere near ready and still very young, with absolutely no tertiary development. Like a 3L bottle a year ago, this was surprisingly light and airy. I prefer the more archetype Latour with a towering structure and loads of aromatic power. Still a beautiful wine.

    TN: The nose is classic Pauillac, loaded with graphite, dark fruit, and cassis, though still dense and not fully expressive. With air, it reveals more blue and red fruit. The palate is round and expressive, though surprisingly lacks weight and the towering structure. Still, the wine is elegant, refined, and beautifully fresh, with no signs of tertiary development. It will benefit from further cellaring. 94/95pts.

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  • 1928 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    From a 6L bottle. The wine showed so fresh and pure, with a beautiful complexity, but out of this very large format, it was still too young. In another 50 years, this would be so much better with 10 additional layers of complexity. Still, a beautiful Sauternes, just missing the extra wow-factor which only fully mature Sauternes can deliver.

    TN: The palate is superb, with remarkable freshness and complexity. A full spectrum of flavors unfolds, including saffron, apricot, quince, and spice, all rendered with vivid clarity. There is not much of the lovely malty, coffee and toffee tertiary flavors I’m looking for in an old Sauternes. Structure wise, this is everything one hopes for in a mature Sauternes, still alive, energetic.

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  • 1985 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 97 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    From a 3L bottle. While the 80s Napa wines are clearly in the shadow of their 70s and early 90s cousins, this Beringer bottle was absolutely amazing and almost certainly the best 80s Napa I’ve had to date. Still a lot of primary aromas mixed with the most beautiful tertiary aromas, all wrapped in a perfect structure with so much tension – wow!

    TN: The nose and palate are perfectly aligned, offering a melty, seductive expression of super ripe dark and dark red fruit, mint, medicinal herbs, and spice. The structure is fresh, energetic, and finely balanced, with a presence that is extremely complete and vibrant. Almost Australian in generosity, yet it maintains an elegant weight. Never heavy, always alive.

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