Wines of Istria

I will make a holiday trip to the Istria penninsula in the near future, so I took the opportunity to attend a wine semiar organized by NZZ Bellevue and curated by Peter Keller and Ivan Barbic MW who has Croatian roots.

• 2020 Veralda Refosco Brut Blanc de Noir 91 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra

  Traditional method from Refosco. The nose is notably expressive, offering yellow apples, sweet baking spices, and patisserie elements—brioche and croissant- giving a generous, almost gourmand appeal. The dosage is classic, round, creamy texture, with a herbal note on the finish. Less taut than Champagne, but there’s an attractive charm and freshness here that reminds me of a well-made Crémant. Confident and composed.

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• 2023 Medea Montiron 88 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra, Zapadna Istra

  Pale green. Bright lime and citrus on the nose. Clean and fruit-driven on the palate, with a pleasing sweet core and good acidity. Not complex, but nicely pitched. A fresh, drinkable white that delivers more than many bland Italian counterparts.

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• 2023 Benvenuti Malvazija Istarska Livio 86 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra

  Pale yellow. A curious, somewhat disjointed nose: volatile hints, earthy spice, a touch of mint? Hard to place, but oak influence is evident. The palate is phenolic and dry. A stylistic outlier that left me scratching my head more than reaching for a second glass.

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• 2021 Kozlović Malvazija Istarska Selekcija 88 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra, Zapadna Istra

  Pale green-gold. Lees-aged in stainless steel. Crisp Granny Smith apples, citrus zest, and a mineral edge. Light, zippy, and very correct - an ideal aperitif style that shows the variety’s bright, primary charm.

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• 2022 Veralda Malvazija Istarska Ambra Castagnari 91 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra, Zapadna Istra

  14.5% alcohol but wears it well. A plush, aromatic nose of sandalwood, apricot, red flowers, and white pepper. The oak is present but well-integrated. Full-bodied, with medium acidity and impressive length. A complex and confident Malvazija that walks the line between indulgence and balance.

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• 2019 Franković Malvazija Istarska Korona 87 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra

  Golden yellow. Rich, bordering on heavy, with ripe lemon and yellow fruit cloaked in oak. Brings to mind a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape in its oily weight and oxidative tone. Sweet and sour elements jar slightly, and the finish is disjointed. A wine of ambition that loses cohesion.

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• 2021 Fakin Malvazija Istarska Amfora 92 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra

  Amber-gold in hue. The nose is complex and earthy, with fennel, mint, and ripe citrus layered over subtle oak. The amphora aging adds textural interest and a fine phenolic grip, keeping the wine fresh despite its weight. Intriguing and well-judged. Best white of the tasting.

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• 2018 Coronica Gran Teran 90 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra, Zapadna Istra

  Made from Refosco, known locally as Teran - a distinction more bureaucratic than varietal. Medium ruby in color. The nose is attractively restrained: red and black fruit, a touch of pine, and a gentle mineral thread. Fresh and medium-bodied, with a racy quality that recalls a ripe Loire Cabernet Franc. Not showy, but drinkable and food-friendly. Light-footed yet correct - a quiet success.

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• 2021 Tomaz Teran Barbarossa 86 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra

  Produced from at least partially air-dried grapes in an Amarone style and aged two years in barrique. Deep ruby. The oak is front and centre: coconut, toast, and mocha. There’s a good spine of acidity, but the wine feels worked, extracted, and hot. A bruiser of a Teran that sacrifices drinkability for power. Too much of everything.

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• 2021 Ipša Santa Elena 85 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra

  Deep ruby. Aromas of stewed fruit and overt oak dominate the nose, calling to mind overripe Merlot from warmer climes - Ticino or perhaps a commercial Chilean effort. The palate confirms the suspicion: roasted oak, oxidative tones, and not enough freshness. Lacks nuance and comes across as forced. Not my cup of tea.

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• 2020 Matošević Grimalda Crno 92 Points

  Croatia, Istria and Kvarner, Istra, Centralna Istra

  The varietals are vinified and aged separately before blending - a thoughtful approach that pays off. Medium ruby in hue, this shows an inviting bouquet of clove, violet, and ripe dark fruit, with discreet oak in tow. The palate is notably fresh and poised, lighter in body than expected from the color, yet persistent and finely balanced. Aromatically engaging, this was the standout red for me - a wine of detail and finesse, not bluster.

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