Romanée Conti Dinner

In truth this was done in many flights. What I have opted to do is sort by DRC and non-DRC samples taken that night.

• 2020 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton-Charlemagne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Served semi-blind (knew the wines in the flight, but not the order). Bottle was opened 2 and a half hours prior, though there was no decanting done here. Guessed correctly here, but that is because it was served alongside a high-sulphur Corton Charlemange which was clearly not the DRC style.
  
  Speaking truthfully, I am not sure what all the fuss is around any of these Corton-Charlemanges without the prerequisite age. Apricots were the only discernible feature of a reduced nose, otherwise relatively unyielding. Palate was surprisingly harsh and buttery at the same time, though the length was excellent. This does have good structure overall, but lacked charm.
  
  Discussion around the table seemed to agree with my sentiment - either this is a great wine in a bad spot and should not be touched for some time, or is simply overrated by confirmation bias. Only time will show the truth of the matter.

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• 2018 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

  Compared to the 2020 Corton Charlemange this was served next to, I would consider this to be a considerable step up. The first thing that you notice is the variety on the nose: eucalyptus and menthol, but what really dominates is the lemon cheesecake that cuts through the whole wine (which a more experienced head than mine suggested was quite typical of Montrachet). The palate had the exotic fruit and citrus quality, melded with great salinity and a texture that walked the tightrope perfectly between lean and fatty. Acidity was good enough, but surprised to experience a clipped finish that left me wanting more power overall. Still lovely, which goes without saying, but time will let it find another gear.

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• 2018 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Definitely not the blockbuster experience that others on this platform seemed to have had with this wine. This might have been, in part, because of my preconceptions around where the 2018 vintage is at. Just from visual inspection alone you could see this really dense core that seemed barely budged from bottling. Really stemmy aromatics here, without the grace nor the spice from DRC's top cuvées.
  
  The palate showed a weighty structure but really little else. A touch of greenness as well? Was decanted for some time in advance, but seemingly not enough to allow the fruit to express itself. An interesting wine, but where there does not seem to be much in the way of terroir expressed here. Rather, this is a facsimile of all the components that DRC is known for, but at 80% volume. Clearly well made, but fundamentally lacking in charm as it sat in the glass on the night.
  
  Definite hold until the next decade if you own it, if not then just buy Coquard Loison-Fleurot's Grands Echezeaux (which, for my money, is almost certainly better made that this).

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• 2018 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  There are two caveats that I want to provide here. The first is that Romanée St. Vivant is the least favourite of the DRC grand cru reds, and the second is that I remain sceptical of claims by others that the 2018s are beginning to open.
  
  Burgundy Al hit the nail on the head when suggesting that drinking this wine is an opportunity to sample noble structure than it is an exercise in enjoying truly pleasurable wine. Same RSV gripe as usual, the spice profile is excessive to my taste and the fruit was almost non-existent.
  
  The score being this high is because I enjoy drinking wines of balance, concentration, bright acidity and exceptional length - all of which this has. However, there is no doubt this needs to be pushed to the back of wherever your wines are stored.

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• 2020 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

  The youngest Richebourg I have ever drunk, and it was blindingly obvious just how much this has in the tank. Nose was ripe and complex, fresh leather at one moment and festive cloves and cinnamon the next. Finish lasted the best part of a minute, this was paired with another great wine but you simply had to drink them one at a time to prevent crossed wires. Alas, for my tastes, the palate was some way behind, the tannins were graceful but at the same time so overpresent and overlaying the fruit. No surprise that this will need another decade before it becomes the beautiful experience it is more than capable of being - though still very pleasurable now.

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• 2022 Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Fac-Simile 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Was seriously impressed with this champagne, even though it really needs a year or two to dial down some of the surplus energy (though fully appreciate others might go in for that). Flesh pink, a great representation of the oxidative style without going over the top. Acidity provides bite without descending fully into a 'crunchy' style either, have be impressed by the balance. A serious champagne, worthy of your buying attention.

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• NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Cuvée Contraste 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  This was, without question, amongst the most complex champagnes I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing. Yeastiness, fattiness, and garlic were what came to mind on the palate, really impressive length as well even though only medium acidity. This also felt surprisingly linear, a little less dense than I personally like.
  
  The reason it does not get a higher score is that this is simply *too* oxidative; there is no way to enjoy many of these nuances because they are dominated by the creaminess and bruised apple traits which are unfortunately too common in this approach. Maybe other bottles are fresher, but I consider it unlikely...

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• 1999 Château d'Yquem 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Served from a pristine 375ml bottle. Interestingly enough, this might be the lowest rating I have ever given an Yquem wine. Nose only exhibited light botrytis and some classical apricot properties. The consensus around this particular vintage was also reflected in my experience. Of course, Yquem is a sweet wine, but this was a type of grainy sweetness that the acidity was not able to provide balance to. Felt like a Sauternes too old to exhibit the zippy fun of youth, but then it didn't have enough complexity to be regal either. Drink if you get it at a good price, but do not be surprised if seen as atypical.

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• 1996 Château d'Yquem 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Drank next to the 1999 Yquem, also from a 375ml bottle. However, this was a very clear step up in all facets of the drinking experience. Even though there was only three years difference, this was much darker. Indeed, the smell of this was quite atypical as well, with considerable bacon-petroleum which I had never found outside of Riesling before. I had to research the potential cause for this, and landed on the role of polyfunctional thiols. One thing both this and the 1999 shared is a less pronounced botrysis and pitted fruit than is typical.
  
  Palate here was much more classic, exotic fruits (passionfruit in particular) up front and then a welcoming butterscotch finished. Unsurprisingly, this was made even better being paired with a fois gras terrine. This will have a very long life, but feel there is still another point or so in the tank.

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• 2020 Benoit Moreau Corton-Charlemagne 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  Tasted alongside a 2020 DRC Corton-Charlemange, both blinded though I came out with the similar scores (though, for very different reasons). In this flight, it was easy to tell the difference between the two wines - the Moreau was much more reductive in style, and the nose did not showcase all that much in terms of overt fruit character. Managed to find a petroleum nose in an unexpected place, also almonds and flint from the aforementioned reduction. Unfortunately, the palate here is some way behind - lacking in body for my tastes, yet at the same time 'hot' and a bit sulphuric. Wine clearly built to age, but my goodness does it need it. Luckily, acidity there to suggest that medium-term cellaring will do a lot of good.

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• 2020 Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Failed to take full tasting notes, but this was blinded alongside a 2020 DRC Richebourg and, for me, there was not all that much in it when it came to drinking pleasure. Another nice think which is not so simple to get hold of, but for those who have it, nothing less than a total gem.

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• 2017 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  This was one of the stranger wines that was consumed on the night. Served blind, but knew it was some kind of Rousseau as the host indicated that it was not the style of Burgundy that he likes. Truthfully, this is probably the second-worst Rousseau I have sampled from a bottle (after a very uninspiring 2008 Rousseau Lavaux St Jacques).
  
  2017 is a vintage that I love everywhere in France, but it almost feels as if this suffered from some dilution as a result of the bumper crop. Nose was muddy and without charm, palate lacked the Grand Cru density I expected, and it only offered fleeting moments where the wine was able to express its terroir (more dark fruit and less meaty animalism). Other Rousseau aficionados have reassured me that the ship will righten up with age, totally possible but little joy right now.

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• 2018 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Notes done entirely from memory, but this was really lovely stuff. 2018s have generally been quite shut down in 2025 for me, but this was super expressive. Sufficient structure to keep me interested, but it is the mix of wild strawberries, sour cherry, bramble and some minerality (a lite version of the neighbouring Lavaux) which really made this super pleasing.
  
  Complex even now, but has more in the tank if you are looking for the forest floor version of this wine. People sometimes question the value proposition of Rousseau in the secondary market (very understandable) but this was a clear step above the 2019 Bruno Clair Clos St Jacques I had a week prior.

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• 2019 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Bourgogne La Haie de Brune 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  As has been pointed out by others, it borders on the ridiculous that this is the first Burgundy wine that Cedric Bouchard has ever produced. However, perhaps the surprise is unwarranted...after all, this is the man who set out to make some of the most un-champagne like champagne on the market. Believe that only two vintages (2018 and 2019) of this wine were produced, and not clear if and when it will be produced again.
  
  For the wine itself, I felt that this was somewhat brooding, in a good way. An absolute coffee bomb on the nose, the palate itself was highly graceful whilst still showcasing some of the structure inherent to the new oak profile. Though vintage characteristics allow it to be accessible now, specific fruit notes are surprisingly elusive- dark, for sure, but rather nebulous at that. Whether any wines will even survive until that point is a whole other matter entirely - and can only imagine where the prices go from here.

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• 2021 Les Jardins Vivants (Tino Kuban) En Belle Rose 95 Points

  France, Vin de France

  Bottle 121/181. Now, there is no denying that this is a style of wine that is probably not going to be to everyone's taste. So far as tasteful examples of reduction go, I thought that this was the gold standard. Manages the tightrope between sulphuric and natural perfectly, a wine built to age but at the same time wants you to enjoy unparalleled red fruit clarity. Stony finish with managed to bring together length and grace. Acidity was great as well, the first time in my life that there was no real bottle comparison I could offer.
  
  NB: A winemaker I was drinking with suggested that though stylistically interesting, they felt that this had been poorly racked and that the style was not totally purposeful. Almost certainly will not have a second bottle of this vintage to compare, but an interesting thought nevertheless.

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• 2022 Aufricht Nachtweid 95 Points

  Germany, Baden

  One of the uniting features that lots of Spatburgunder/German Pinot I have sampled tends to exhibit is this strange obsession with Brettanomyces. We are not in the 1980s any more, Anthony Hanson MW's dictum that great Burgundy smells like shit just doesn't fly with me. This did not have that at all - floral with the lightest hint of spice. Like the nose of a Leroy, but actually even better because it does not exhibit much in the way of the greenness that can come with whole bunch inclusion.
  
  The palate is a touch behind, but still a wonder. Definitely oaky presence that can be felt here, but more spice than vanilla. Though this could not be described as weighty, it had enough weight and intensity to make its presence known on the palate. Broadened up with some oxygen, and ended up with some cranberries in the front and midpalate.
  
  Gains the joint highest score that I have every given to a Pinot Noir which is not Premier Cru Burgundy + (tied only with Kei Shiogai's 2022 Gevrey Chambertin). This is an absolutely immense wine, and it is a great shame that there are not more bottles of this going around.

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