Loire Trip (with stops in Beaujolais and the Cote Chalonnaise)
Tasted Thursday, October 2, 2008 - Sunday, October 5, 2008 by tcfishler with 1,853 views
Flight 1 - Domaine de l'Ecu / Guy Bossard (5 Notes)
Somewhat challenging to find but worth a stop, the tasting room here is quite well appointed, and it's decorated in part with empty bottles from some of the other fine vignerons of the Loire and Burgundy, yet more testimony to Guy Bossard's palate. The vintage characteristics were on full display here, and I preferred the balance of Bossard's one example from the riper vintage.
Flight 2 - Domaine des Baumard (10 Notes)
Incredible consistency throughout the lineup, as you would expect, with the Clos du Papillon and Le Paon being particular favorites of this trip.
Flight 3 - Domaine du Closel / Chateau des Vaults (8 Notes)
Beautiful grounds for strolling, but I frankly couldn't find as much satisfaction as I had hoped in these Savennieres. While it may very well be that they simply need more time, it is unfortunate that no older vintages were available to taste or purchase.
Flight 4 - Domaine Aux Moines (10 Notes)
Incredible expressions of Roche aux Moines here. The profile of these changes drastically from vintage to vintage, but the constant is the power that Madame Laroche manages to capture in her wines. The sweet cuvees, too, were revelations of what Savennieres can achieve with botrytized grapes. Speaking of botrytis, there was a good amount of it on display in Laroche's vineyards, so there's a solid chance that at least the Nonnes could be made this year.
Flight 5 - Chateau Soucherie (7 Notes)
A corporation has taken over the reigns here from the Tijou family. I hope the level of quality and value so obvious in Tijou's wines continue. What's clear is that the new owners are pushing harder for representation in export markets and on restaurant wine lists. It's interesting how they vinify Chaume differently than Coteaux du Layon - the former sees only tank, while the latter goes into barriques. The difference in elevage makes it hard to pick apart the differences in the terroir, but all were outstanding without a doubt. The surprise of the bunch was the Savennieres, however - very serious stuff.
Flight 6 - Huet (15 Notes)
Tasting through this lineup give one a real sense of how the individual vineyards react differently to the conditions presented by each vintage. Although we were told that botrytis is the dividing line between the demi-sec and moelleux wines here, the transition from one to the other seemed quite gentle. There is a strong soil presence to these wines.
Flight 7 - Couly-Dutheil (8 Notes)
We tasted just a small fraction of a nearly bewildering lineup of wines from Chinon and neighboring appellations. The domaine Chinons here are, broadly speaking, forceful yet not forced, with a feel of extraction but not spoofulation, with the exception of the over-oaked 2003 Crescendo. They deserve a better U.S. presence.
Flight 8 - Daniel Chauveau (6 Notes)
Another formerly family-run estate, but this time the buyer was an American, from Paso Robles. He was a bit disparaging of the wines made by the former winemaker (from 2005 and backward), stating that his preference is for a less vegetal red wine. But at the same time he expressed reservations about trying to make a pandering "Parker" type of Chinon. In any case, he did very well with the challenging 2006 and 2007 vintages.
Flight 9 - Domaine du Vissoux (10 Notes)
Pierre-Marie Chermette is an incredibly affable host, and yet there is a measured pride about him appropriate for one of the very best vignerons in Beaujolais today. Absolutely everything in his lineup is superb. In fact, we bought everything except the Les Griottes (sold here as "Pierre Chermette") and Traditionelle, which we will be hunting for stateside as they arrive.
Flight 10 - Domaine Dureuil-Janthial (7 Notes)
Raymond, Vincent's father, was kind enough to pour for us. The European labels bear his name rather than his son's. It was interesting to find nothing younger than 2002 being offered here, even when it came to Aligote and Passetoutgrains. But even those had aged better than many Cote d'Or Premier Crus from other producers!
2006 Domaine de l'Ecu Gros-Plant du Pays Nantais
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Gros-Plant du Pays Nantais
(10/2/2008)
Clean and pleasant profile but sour! Still, a good option in the correct situation.
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2006 Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Cuvée Classique
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
(10/2/2008)
Expressive, with floral and mineral notes. Obviously broader and lusher after the Gros Plant, but still nicely balanced in an objective sense.
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2006 Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Expression de Gneiss
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
(10/2/2008)
A nose that is ripe throughout, but changes profile from fresh and flowery at first on to a mineral character that emerges and builds with swirling. There’s no mistaking the bony acid spine of this serious bottling of Muscadet, however.
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2006 Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Orthogneiss
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
(10/2/2008)
Rather closed on the nose, this cuvee is easier to warm up to in the mouth, showing more pronounced pear and gooseberry flavors, and finishing with a nuttier twist.
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2005 Domaine de l'Ecu Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Expression de Granite
France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
(10/2/2008)
Lower, riper tones of sweat and oil start to register at a somewhat higher octave with swirling. Vibrant yet dense, with grainy flavors and texture. I like what Bossard did here with the warmer vintage.
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