A month in Barolo: A visit with a new generation at Lorenzo Accomasso

The wines of Lorenzo Accomasso are a bit of an enigma. Never imported into the United States, and having a mythical following in Italy. A few have shown up at tastings I’ve been to. If found on the open market the Barolos seem to go for 200-300€, and double on restaurant lists. I have been told both that the wines are magnificent, and that they are sometimes not clean. They make 8,000-10,000 bottles/yr, a bit more than half of which is Barolo; a slim amount that allows the lore to grow. I had to come and investigate for myself, and am grateful to the family for the visit. Some of this is what I learned: Lorenzo’s first vintage was 1958, not released until 1966... same today, with the 2017 the current release. Their best holdings are in Rocche dell’Annunziata, and they have a special plot and the only ones allowed to declare on the label, “Rocche dell’Annunziata Vigna Rochette.” The plot is directly next to the Aurelio Settimo’s winery, and it was completely replanted in 2016 and is just now coming online again. Lorenzo was the president of the Cantina Comunale di La Morra from 1991-2011, so was quite a figure here. He is now 91 years old. In late 2020, Lorenzo fell ill with Covid-19 and was in the hospital for months. There was a mad scurry to conduct harvest. Lorenzo’s daughter was with him in hospital in Torino, so left on the farm was then 17 year old Lorenzo Jr. Lorenzo Jr. would talk on the phone daily with Lorenzo from the hospital, and they wound up making the harvest work this way. Since then, Lorenzo Jr. has continued a growing role into winemaker. His sister Sara, now 20, is also engaged in the family business and was my host. Production is very old school, 40-50 day macerations, 36 months in wood, and 4 years in tank before bottling. I got to try their 2017 Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva Barolo. It showed soft elegant texture throughout, mild fruit, a bit of funky mushrooms. I found the wine integrated very nicely, and drinking well at present, and certainly very old school. In talking to some folks, if you are a private client with an allocation, the Barolo are something like 50-80€. At that price, I’d be a buyer. The lore alone is worth having it.

• 2017 Lorenzo Accomasso Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Total annual production here is about 8,000-10,000 bottles, split up amongst 4 wines, so only about 2,000 bottles of this per year. This was only just bottled in August 2024 (so 7 years post harvest) and recently released to market. It spent 36 months in wood, and the following 4 years in steel tank. It undergoes 40-50 days of maceration. This particular bottle was opened three days prior. The aromas are soft and elegant, and just ever so slightly musty. I do appreciate the elegance of the fruit though. Overall, I find the nose fairly mild. Nice integration of its elements on the palate, though, with pretty rich intensity. The strength of the fruit and acid is what's dominant and pokes its way through a thin layer of mustiness. Overall I find the wine quite mild in the mouth, round, with a touch of elegance structurally. Very tart on the finish, showing good richness and depth. Nice integration of its structural elements, and has good balance, but certainly very old school. More aeration made the wine feel fresher in the glass. A treat to try.

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