Acid Compass with a bunch of GG's
E&R Wine Shop, Portland OR
Tasted Wednesday, September 13, 2023 by David Paris with 73 views
Introduction
I primarily came for the Keller's, but boy was I disappointed. They just didn't offer anything more compelling than many of my other favorite Großes Gewächs.
2020 Peter Lauer Sekt Brut 91 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Very pretty floral notes, apples, and honeydew melon. Lovely. Really lovely palate entry, showing a lot of fruit and nicely laced with minerals and acid. Really lovely fruit, like juicy fruit gum. Wow, really delicious and pretty on the finish, too. Lovely acidity and pretty minerality, integrated really well.
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2021 Weingut Keller Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs 90 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Obviously the Keller was the most exciting wines in the lineup, and really the reason I decided to join the tasting. It's a little quiet on the nose; quite restrained. The texture on palate entry is odd, and a bit chunky and blocky as its moved around the mouth. Still shows very pure, soft fruit, but the flavors are quite mild. Not too much acid or mineral drive... there's certainly some minerality there, but it's very restrained. It does feel like the wine has stuffing on the palate, but it's tight as nails. Bitter attack at first when you swallow, and you get awashed in acid that develops some time after the finish starts and it carries long after... there's some minerals and really nice acidic melon integrated well. This feels like a tight laser beam with its focus and crazy tightness and intensity. I think this wine will require a ton of time to integrate. Right now it's just too compact and honestly not very enjoyable.
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2021 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Also incredibly tight, but showing more fruit than the Westhofen Morstein. Very pretty. Rich and round palate texture, showing more sweet fruit. Tastes almost like a fruit cocktail. Really pretty finish and more approachable, but fairly fruit forward and pretty mild and minerality. It's primarily about the fruit. Not sure why these Keller's weren't exciting today, but others felt the same.
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2021 Rudolf Fürst Centgrafenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points
Germany, Franken
Soft, pretty, and floral on the nose. Nice elegance on palate entry, and the prettiness grows in intensity as its held in the mouth. Rich minerals and acidity, but the texture is a little obtuse and chunky. Lots more bitter dialed up on the finish, showing tons of minerality and it all lands a bit more bitter than expected. Pretty intense stuff.
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2021 Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points
Germany, Nahe
Very very perfumed, like a freshly opened bottle of perfume at Macy's. The perfume is so crazy and intense. It smells of the color purple. Really throws me for a loop. The palate is thick, chunky, and shows some honeydew melon and lots of minerals come in to balance that fruit. More bitter minerals on the finish, with a really intense attack. Heavy and thick, with tone of salinity and mild minerals.
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2011 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Winninger Uhlen Riesling "L" Laubach 93 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Wow, very pretty and intense on the nose; quite unique for the lineup. Probably both because it's a Heymann-Löwenstein, but surely also due to its age compared to the others. Sooo pretty and lovely fruit on that nose. This exudes elegance. Absolutely beautiful. So incredible and round in the mouth. Just a real beauty. Absolutely killer, with so much complexity and elegance. I love the texture and the purity of the fruit expression. Feels very natural and pretty. Vibrant bloom of acidity on the finish, but so pretty and pure in its fruit expression. It feels fully developed and presenting so beautifully. Vibrant and drinking in its prime.
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2021 J.B. Becker Wallufer Oberberg Riesling Auslese trocken 85 Points
Germany, Rheingau
Wild. Smells like green grapes at the grocery store. Doesn't even smell like wine. A bit boring and straight forward. Chunky palate texture, showing a lot of juicy fruit forward, with mild bitterness. Tart on the finish, and again, just coming across really grapey.
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1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 91 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Pretty, elegant, and refined on the nose. A bit hard to go from all these teeth sucking dry wines straight to an aged Auslese, but here we are. By comparison all I smell is this crazy sweetness on the nose, but then... of course! Good acid attacks on the palate, thankfully. Really deliscious pure apricot notes, with a rich round texture. So pretty. The finish is a bit odd and flat at first, but rounds out 10 seconds after swallowing, developing into more apricots and mild acid lingering. I think the wine really needs more acid to carry this much sugar, though.
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