Clos Rougeard Les Poyeux vertical
Tasted Sunday, July 20, 2025 by melvinyeowq with 116 views
Introduction
Pierre kindly hosted a very instructive Clos Rougeard vertical. Key takeaways were (i) Clos Rougeard is a truly singular Loire CF that manages to achieve such a sensual, silky texture without too much brett and pyrazine notes (ii) it is also remarkably consistent with a definitive signature (I think I am relatively confident I can guess a Les Poyeux blind next time) (iii) cooler vintages have more freshness and lift, some of the warmer vintages were a little awkward as the pyrazine note didn't gel well with the riper fruit.
1990 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année 94 Points
France, Champagne
Deep golden appearance and devoid of bubbles but still very much alive with lively acidity despite the honey and toffee notes dominating. Much more complexity than the '02 alongside. Even better than the '90 Pol Roger that I had previously.
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2002 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année 90 Points
France, Champagne
Similar to previous experience except this had much less overt oxidative notes. Powerful and yeasty, but not much finesse. '90 was much better.
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2017 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc 92 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur
My extra. Some reduction but not as much as previous bottles that smelled of burnt tires. Surprisingly rich and tropical for a Chenin with pear and peach notes, but without being flabby. Almost had too much going on without coming together as a cohesive unit. Better than my previous bottles but think the rest were more effusive about this.
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2015 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Rosé 93 Points
France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
My extra. I think I might have unwittingly cornered the market for this given how many notes I have. But consistent with previous experiences, very fresh and vibrant strawberry fruit but this bottle was the most expressive and complex yet with some RS peeking through. Excellent.
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2011 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux 94 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
By far the most delicate wine with the most alluring nose which was most people's favourite at first but I was a little sceptical because of the sous-bois and soy notes that made it seem a little advanced. Liked this much better on the second pour after it put on a little more concentration, reinforced my preference for cooler vintages of Rougeards like this and '06/'08.
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2012 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux 91 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Darker-fruited and sweeter than the '11 alongside but less expressive so the
jalapeno note stood out a lot more. Didn't improve with air. Not a bad wine but the weakest of the flight tonight.
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2005 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux 94 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Some brett at first but wasn't obtrusive. Very silky and polished for an '05, I expected this to be much more tannic. Ripe dark blackcurrant fruit that was fuller-bodied than the other wines as expected of the vintage, but seamlessly integrated. Reminded me of a very good old-school right-bank Bordeaux. Only quibble was that it developed some roasted liquorice notes with air that made it less elegant but think I liked this more than the others.
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2014 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux 92 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Excellent matière with pure and sensual blue fruit, but rather tight with the most overt tannins in the line-up (felt denser and more extracted than the others). Nonetheless had a nice minerality but simply was just not ready to me. Others liked this more than I did.
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2009 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux 92 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Ripe dark fruit with some brett and pyrazine notes. Thought the sweetness slightly masked the elegance, so the cooler vintages were more attractive. Still youthful though so no doubt this will improve.
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2010 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux 94 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Slight hint of bell pepper and VA on the nose. As with 2010s in other regions, this was impeccably balanced; supple dark red fruit that was accompanied by a sensual textural elegance. Better midpalate and depth than the '11 so this was my WOTN.
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