Summer Wine Lunch

• 1996 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  No surprise, well past its peak.

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• 2005 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Popped-and-poured. Fully mature aromatic start with baked apple and butterscotch, then similar but slightly fresher flavors showing good richness and intensity, with just enough brightness remaining.

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• 2008 Domaine Morey-Coffinet Bâtard-Montrachet 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  In 07/08 flight from the "Bâtards." Very good richness and density, this showcases Bâtard richness well, its textural character less well. Drinking well, but maybe better a year or three ago.

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• 2008 Domaine Roger Belland Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  In 07/08 flight from the "Bâtards." Well spiced and fresh with great balance and good charm, but probably the least density of the flight. Very good now and for probably thenext decade.

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• 2007 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  In 07/08 flight from the "Bâtards." Lemon start with more flavors unfolding from middle thru long finish. Still taut, this is a bottle that would really reward attention over several hours, and will also reward more cellar time. My first time tasting this vintage, and the only bad thing I can say is that it is not quite as great as their Bâtards-Montrachet.

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• 2018 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Badly oxidized.

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• 2016 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Rich and fat, very enjoyable even if less composed or complex vs the best, more cellar-worthy vintages.

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• 2014 Domaine Jean Chartron Bâtard-Montrachet 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  This had been decanted and given a few hours of air, which likely turned out to be a mistake. Big, fat and certainly rich, but slightly lacking textural brightness and energy.

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There were 3 or 4 more wines where alas I am unable to read my tasting notes.

• 2000 Domaine Gallet (Henri et Philippe) Côte-Rôtie 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  In 2000 Côte-Rôtie flight. Very old school, good depth and complexity.

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• 2000 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  In 2000 Côte-Rôtie flight. Open 4 hours before serving. Dense, powerful, meaty black fruit, still somewhat compact.

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• 2000 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  In 2000 Côte-Rôtie flight, then pivoted to the Jamet flight. Spiced black fruit with still robust structure that seems almost harmonized. Better with food than on its own. I think this is the first time I have revisiting this wine since tasting it at Jamet in 2004.

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• 2005 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Jamet flight. Firm and backward for now so slightly awkward. But lots here. More patience likely required.

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• 1997 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Jamet flight. Spiced red and black fruits are ripe, evolved, and wonderfully complex. Great now, easily holding well for the next decade. Best red wine today.

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