Martin Woods Winery Masterclass with Evan Martin

A sit-down tasting to canter through the 2023s with founder and winemaker Evan Martin, hosted by Simon Davies of UK importer A&B.

Evan's winery is in the middle of the woods, relatively close to the Pacific.

His objective is "quiet power", with elegance rather than anything extreme. He favours late-ripening sites where the grapes can take their time to develop flavour.

All the whites are relatively oxidative, with minimal sulphur and very long lees contact, and he aims to retain malic acid in them.

• 2023 Martin Woods Chardonnay Temperance Hill Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

  The debut vintage of this cuvee. Evan says the style of it is inspired by Hubert Lamy's St Aubins.
  
  A bright, engaging, relatively ripe nose, with some melon, white flowers and a smoky side - it smelled glorious. Notable grip and concentration on the palate, stony and with a very persistent, biscuity finish. I bought some of this after the tasting :-)

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• 2023 Martin Woods Chardonnay Koosah Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

  A high, windy site that Evan says produces his "Puligny". It seems gentler and softer on the nose than the Temperance Hill, but that doesn't follow through onto the palate, which is pithy and high in acidity. It's also zesty and saline, and lifted but not lean. Again, the finish is particularly long. A very good wine, but didn't have as much charisma as the others.

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• 2023 Martin Woods Chardonnay Mozaïk 92 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

  Evan says this is the "Meursault" of the lineup, and it's grown on two sites with chalky, saline soil. There's soft stone fruit on the nose. When drunk, it feels softer and riper than the other two whites, easygoing with sweet, chewy orange, and had a classical, understated, slightly marine finish.

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The winemaking for the reds is consistent: a very long 'infusion', with c. 10% whole bunch, spontaneous fermentations and occasional gentle punchdowns. A small amount of new oak (maximum 15%) is used, and he's experimenting with native Oregon oak from near the winery, which has absorbed the influence of the ocean and transfers that to the wine.

• 2023 Martin Woods Pinot Noir Hyland Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, McMinnville

  The "Chambolle", made from 50yo vines. The wonderful 2018 of this wine was what first brought the estate to my attention, and this vintage didn't disappoint. A pretty, pale crimson. The nose is totally intoxicating, with honeysuckle and a touch of cola alongside beautifully delineated red fruit: it's a sexy bouquet. The wine's silky texture is also beautiful, and there's plenty of delicious red berry and apple fruit that shows an unforced, sweet side to the wine despite the fact it's entirely dry. The finish is incredible persistent, in a quiet way. Sensational.

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• 2023 Martin Woods Pinot Noir Jessie James Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

  The "Vosne", says Evan: refined, but concentrated. Like the Hyland this is from a high-altitude vineyard with volcanic soil. A touch deeper and purpler. The nose is stony, with some game and red fruit (Evan says there's an element of reduction, which he encourages to add complexity). It's noticeably more tannic than the Hyland, but has plenty of delicious red fruit underneath, and a lovely, juicy finish. Very sophisticated, and another I bought afterwards.

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• 2023 Martin Woods Pinot Noir Bednarik Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Tualatin Hills

  Marine, more sandy soil, and a lower altitude site than Hyland and Jessie James, but still late-ripening because of the coastal influence. Vines from 1988. This is the "Volnay", and in 2023 was picked especially late (130 days from flowering!). The nose is great: very perfumed, sweeping, spicy and savoury, with hints of cumin and fenugreek. There's generous acidity and an enduring, contemplative finish, which is slightly drying at this early stage. I'm intrigued to find out how this fascinating wine will develop.

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• 2023 Martin Woods Pinot Noir Mozaik Koosah & Temperance Hill 91 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

  Made from the two highest wines in the Willamette, at around 1000 feet asl. Another subtle, sophisticated nose, with lifted red fruit. It's much bigger in the mouth, though, sweeter and more concentrated than the single vineyard Pinots, with attractive powdery tannins. This was more generic than the other wines, but it's very nice in its own right. It may not have benefited from being served last, and therefore presumably warmest.

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This was fascinating, with delicious and distinctive wines. Evan and his wines are quietly very impressive, and I'm looking forward to following them.