Dunn Cabernet Vertical '87 - '90 Blindtasted

This was the second Dunn vertical blindtasting, taking us from '87 to '90. The group's ratings, with which I was pretty much in synch, really confirmed that for these vintages, the Dunn Napas are more approachable and enjoyable at present than the Howell Mountains, and maybe even for the long term.



Here are Ross Bott's introductory notes for this tasting:
In Part 1 of our Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Retrospective, we tasted
their Cabernets from 1982-1986, all were still going strong. While
they are showing extremely well right now, many appear to have at
least another decade of evolution ahead of them. They are great
examples of how very well-made California Cabernets can age almost
effortlessly if well-cellared. Here were the results:

Tonight, we'll continue with seven Dunn Cabernets from
1987-1990. The 1987 and 1990 vintages were in the typical Dunn
superconcentrated style with tannins to match, and requiring two
decades to open up. In contrast, the 1988 and 1989 vintages were
lighter vintages for the winery, and have almost a Bordeaux-like
structure and concentration. Tastings from the winery show that
these wines have also aged very gracefully and are peaking right
now. Here are some tasting notes:

1987 Dunn, Napa Valley (13.0%): "The 1987 Napa Cabernet reveals an
opaque dark purple color, and a strong yet unevolved bouquet of
cassis, minerals, and toasty oak. Rich, but very tannic and full,
this wine should be at its best between 1998-2010." (91/100, Robert
Parker) "Attractive for its deep, rich fruit and spicy aromas, this
is very young, intense and complex, with tiers of currant, plum and
black cherry flavors and toasty oak notes. Stylish, very complete and
firmly tannic on the finish" (93/100, Wine Spectator)

1987 Dunn "Howell Mountain", Napa Valley (13.0%): "A powerful, young
wine, even at age 10. Dark, ripe, intense and deeply concentrated,
this one is years from peaking. Packed with a rich, earthy core of
currant, mineral, anise, sage and cedar. Quite tannic in this
tasting, the fruit poured through on the finish" (97/100, Wine Spectator)

1988 Dunn "Howell Mountain", Napa Valley (13.0%): "Deep in color,
with a wealth of currant, cherry and spice flavors and a touch of
earthiness. Very complex and complete for an '88." (91/100, Wine Spectator)

1989 Dunn, Napa Valley (13.0%): "Dark and immense, still a youngster,
with intense earthy currant, plum and black cherry flavors that are
rich, yet for all their weight still quite elegant. Still has tannin
to lose. Decant if you drink it now.--1989 California Cabernet
retrospective. Best from 2000 through 2010." (92/100, Wine Spectator)

1989 Dunn "Howell Mountain", Napa Valley (13.0%): "Thick, dark, dense
and concentrated, this packs a wallop with intensely flavored, firmly
tannic currant, earth and cedar notes. So young it tastes like a
barrel sample, but it fits the Dunn Napa Valley style and is a
success." (90/100, Wine Spectator)

1990 Dunn, Napa Valley (13.0%): "Dense, ripe and concentrated, with a
tough edge of tannin but plenty of berry, currant and plum fruit
showing through. A massive wine that holds together nicely on the
finish." (92/100, Wine Spectator) "The 1990 Cabernet Sauvignon-Napa
is an opaque, awesomely concentrated, tannic wine with little
aromatic development." (93/100, Robert Parker)

1990 Dunn "Howell Mountain", Napa Valley (13.0%): "Still dark,
immense and ruggedly tannic, rich with earthy currant, black cherry,
mineral, clay, anise and sage flavors that are deep and
persistent.--California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through
2015." (91/100, Wine Spectator) "The massive 1990 Howell Mountain
exhibits huge tannin, but immense concentration. ... It does possess
a tell-tale mineral, cassis, flowery nose, and a rich, full-bodied,
dense, highly extracted, tannic personality." (96/100, Wine Spectator)

With the Dunn Napas taking 3 out of the 4 top spots for the group, this tasting really seemed to confirm that the Dunn Napas are a better value and a better bet for current drinking. The Howell Mountains in this line up were generally good wines too, but just so tannic and tight still that we all preferred the Napas. In the case of the highly rated '90 Howell Mountain, in particular, I feel the tannins are so huge yet, and the fruit fast declining, that there's likely to be no fruit left when, and if, the tannins ever resolve.

• 1990 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #1 (my #1) – 25 pts; 5 1st place votes, 2 2nd place votes, 2 thirds, 0 last places – Dark red violet color; tobacco, herbal, plum and wild raspberry nose; tart plum, cassis, charcoal palate, a bit tight yet, with a nice minty and sweet herbal quality; medium finish 93+ pts.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1989 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #2 (my #4) – 37 pts; 2 1st place votes, 2 2nd place votes, 1 third, 0 last places – Dark cherry red color; tightish tart cassis and blackberry nose with subtle herbs; tight, tart, tannic red fruit, currant palate, with depth, needs several more years; medium-plus finish 91+ pts.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1988 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Group's #3 (my #3) – 39 pts; 0, 3, 4, 1 – Dark red violet color; leather, graphite, tart plum and Rutherford dust nose; tart plum, berry, graphite, cassis, mineral and sage palate; medium-plus finish

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1987 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Group's #4 (my #2) – 45 pts; 2, 3, 0, 3 – Dark red violet color; graphite and tart plum and red fruit nose; tart cassis, tart plum palate with good minerals and complexity and sweet tannins; medium-plus finish

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1989 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Group's #5 (my #5) – 52 pts; 1, 0, 0, 1 – Dark red violet with pale edges; tobacco and sage nose with a touch of Necco wafer; tart tobacco, graphite, charcoal and black fruit palate; medium-plus finish

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1990 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Group's #6 (my #6) – 52 pts; 0, 1, 3, 2 – Slightly cloudy dark red violet color; herbal, minty cassis nose; starting to mature, tart plum, earth mineral palate with a touch of shitake mushroom, very tannic, and fruit not likely to outlive the tannins; medium finish 90+ pts.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 1987 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Group's #7 (my #7) – 58 pts; 1, 0, 1, 4 – Dark red violet color with pale meniscus; earthy black fruit and herbal nose; narrower, earthy black fruit and charcoal palate with high acidity; medium finish

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No