Burgundy Wimps

Table Cendré d’Aisy

A nice mix of mature and semi mature Burgundies accompanied by some great food. There were no poor bottles, indeed they were pretty close in quality. Some nice drinking but no real wow factor. Convinced me that good White Burgundy needs 20 years and red closer to 30. All wines we had should evolve further.

• 2018 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières Cuvée Baudot Pierre Yves Colin Morey 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Lots of oak on the nose, almost smoky, a little buttery fruit but in the background. Oak is the predominant flavour too, this tastes very young. Some richness to the fruit but a bit muted at this age. Years left, needs time.

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• 2014 Albert Grivault Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Perrières 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Should be singing at this age but it still tasted fairly primary to me. Muted nose, a little yellow fruit. Nicer flavour, bright acidity, buttery fruit, oak resolved, pleasant wine but no more. Needs time.

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• 2017 Guffens-Heynen Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Jus des Croux 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Ripe nose, some oak, leaf mould, yellow fruits. Golden yellow colour, rich and buttery, more like a classic Meursault in profile than a PF, this is young but drinking well now. Good depth, nice lingering finish. Classy.

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• 2002 Domaine François Lamarche Clos Vougeot 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  I last had this in 2011 when it tasted very young. It has evolved a bit due didn’t seem fully mature, a surprise for the vintage. Smoky fruit, bbq meat at first, liquorice. Bold, dense fruit but still tannic. More liquorice, damp earth. Evolves in the glass. Back note of raisin. Ok but not fully convincing. Give it more time.

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• 2002 Domaine François Lamarche La Grande Rue 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru

  Leafy nose, becomes quite green as it opens up there is some liquorice and red cherry too. Ripe red fruit, still tannic, though it tastes mature. Slightly stalky and underripe notes which become more pronounced. Not sure about this one.

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• 2010 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St. Georges 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

  A bit closed at first but it opens up nicely. Floral nose, red fruits. Better flavour, tight at first but class develops, dense cherry as it opens out. Still young but should come good.

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• 2013 Jean-Pierre Guyon Vosne-Romanée Les Charmes de Mazières 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  Needed the whole lunch to open up but develops a nice lifting scent with some Pinot beetroot. Dense red fruits, redcurrant and cherry, summer fruits, juicy acidity. Was there a hint of reduction? Needed time but got to be an interesting wine in the end.

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• 2010 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Meaty nose with a hint of raspberry. Bright fruit, more raspberry. A little obvious but still a nice young burgundy. Stayed pretty constant through the lunch.

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• 2006 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Wine of the lunch for me. Glassic Gevrey. Big liquorice nose, black fruited, damp earth. Scented red fruit flavour with a good bit of liquorice on the finish. Resolved but not old. A classy wine.

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• 2008 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 93 Points

  Hungary, Tokaji

  Very waxy nose, raisins, apples. Absolutely textbook young Tokaji, apple and raisin with lovely acidity cutting through the sweetness. Lingering, very fine.

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