Hickory Creek Winery Visit

My wife and I were in Southwest Michigan last weekend visiting some frinds and we all decided to take a short drive to Baroda, Michigan to visit this new winery (about 1 hour 30 minutes from Chicago). I had never tried their wines before. It opened in 2006 and is located South of Baroda in a pretty red barn. A small but comfortable tasting room with a picnic outside to taste al fresco if the weather permits. Tastings are free except for their ice wine.

This estate only produces vinifera (except for an apple wine) and either grows their own fruit or puchases it from small growers in the Lake Michigan Shore appellation. Since on of the owners also manages many of the local vineyards he is able to control the growth and source from the best sites. This property is owned by an American, an Australian and a German. We were able to talk to the german winemaker/owner, Gottfried Hart who moved to the area from Franconia when he married. The estate fruit comes from his Hart Vineyard near Three Oaks, Michigan. Production is very small with only a total of 1800 cases for all wines in 2007. So you are looking at a couple hundred cases of each of the wines below.

Most of the vines are only 3-4 years old so I fully expect quality to increase once the vines mature. fruit is cropped to about 2 tons per acre. The wines were all well made and demonstrated a very clean and dry style of winemaking acrooss the board. All things considered, this was a very impressive estate and has moved into 2nd place in my rankings in the area behind only Wyncroft. Here are my notes:

• 2005 Hickory Creek Riesling 89 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  This was much more refined than the 2006 or the 2007 Estate. More depth and balance. Made in a dry style. Very minerally with vibrant acidity. Notes of pineapple and white peaches. 89-90 points.

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• 2006 Hickory Creek Riesling 85 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  Very young and linear. You get a facefull of tart fruit here. 2006 was not as good a vintage as 2005 or 2007. Again very dry with wet stone and apple notes. 85-86 points.

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• 2007 Hickory Creek Riesling 90 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  This wine is grown on the estates Hart vineyard near Three Oaks, Michigan. This had the best nose of the Rieslings with a rather German profile. A very youthful wine which will need some time to flesh out. However, it showed a wonderful depth of fruit which should show through once the acidity balances out. White fruit, slate and a fine minerality. Fine finish. I predict a 90 pointer in a couple years. 88-90+ points

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• 2006 Hickory Creek Semi-Dry Riesling 87 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  Just a touch of sweetness here. Tropical fruit on the nose with orange blossom, apple and pear on the palate. Nice texture. 87 points.

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• 2006 Hickory Creek Chardonnay 84 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  This got a mix of new and used oak and I thought it showed too much. Creamy fruit with a medium body. Notes of chamomile, ripe honeydew melon and citrus. Spicy finish. 84 points.

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• 2007 Hickory Creek Chardonnay 89 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  This was a barrel sample that they had in the tasting room. This year they did not use oak and instead aged it exclusively in stainless steel. Very Chablislike and I much preferred it to the 2006. Clean and crisp. Fresh lychee with alemon/lime nuance. 89 points.

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• 2007 Hickory Creek Cider 77 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  Tasted like flat cider. If I wanted cider I would buy it. 77 points.

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• 2006 Hickory Creek Cabernet Franc Rosé 86 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  Pinkish rose color. This would have been better slightly chilled.Pretty nose. Notes of raspberries and herbs. Refreshing and light to medium bodied. 86 points.

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• 2006 Hickory Creek Gamay 84 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  A clear pale red color. Light bodied with notes of strwaberry and bing cherry. Best served slightly chilled which this was not. 84 points.

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• 2005 Hickory Creek Mélange 88 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  My wife and friends liked this better than I did. Rather earthy and old world in style. Clearly a cool climate red. This is a blend of 45% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cab Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. Notes of charcoal and black fruit. Medium bodied. Firm tannins. Give this a year to settle. The winemaker suggested this would age 10 years. 88 points.

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• 2005 Hickory Creek Vidal Ice Wine 91 Points

  USA, Michigan, Lake Michigan Shore

  Expensive at $65 per half bottle. I had to pay for this taste. Normally, a vidal blanc ice wine can be cloying but this had excellent acidity that added a wonderful balance. Very tropical and fragrant nose. Notes of kiwi, pineapple and mango. Supple and long finish. 91 points.

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VM