France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Worth caveating that this had only been bottled a few months before (and therefore somewhat unreasonable to consider it representative). Only slightly fatty bacon on the nose. The palate is surprisingly muted and atypical today. I felt that it lacked texture and was uninteresting. There was a slightly plummy quality to the mid-palate, quite tightly overall. Can't say this is the itch I wanted to scratch from Meursault, but was glad to have tried it. Maybe this is one of those wines that will only show its talents after some years. Drink after 2029 for some much needed development.
Bottle 226/290. Had the pleasure of inviting Adrien to lunch so drank with him. Almost laffy taffy on the nose, has a really pleasant sweetness, much more classically Meursault, Only a touch of reduction on the palate here and has a great caramel quality. Talking to Adrien, his own winemaking philosophy places far less emphasis on the reductive character of white winemaking. Needs time and will be even better when it reaches maturity. However, already this is a profound white well worth your attention.
This is a very classic Coche nose, served blind and was able to guess it very quickly. Biscuit is the primary flavour, one of those that needs time to emerge even at the Bourgogne level - light acidity so definitely shows its level but pleasurable plonk at the right price. I am always impressed by the texture of Coche Dury at any level and this is no exception. However, there are so many superior runners and riders in the Cote d'Or that it surprises me that these bottles are still subject to considerable speculation.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
This is a lot more nouveau Burgundy with that classic blue fruit quality with just a hint if pepper on the nose. I call it a bit hollow and cooling on the nose too. It is a village Gevrey Chambertin, a considerable step down from the 2022 in terms of complexity, structure and overall charm. One speculates that this is one of those vintages where the growing conditions were not so favourable to the dogmatic destemmers.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Very kind share from the table next to us, and they did give a heads up that this was not likely to be our favourite wine of the lunch. So it transpired. Even more so than the 'normal' Shiogai Gevrey, this was incredibly disjointed and bordered on the absolutely astringent. Aromatics were not really in place with the exception of some oak-inflected spice, and the palate never managed to put on any more weight to go along with the shy expression of dark red fruit. Absolutely this is one that needs a long while in the cellar to become anything of serious note. The greatest pity is that the winemaker has been on the record of his wines needing time, but ultimately restaurants and consumers have other designs.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
After a very poor experience with the winemaker in the past, this is so incredibly charming. Sweet cherry nose and has a fresh palate with a mouthwatering acidity. Definitely a feminine wine (I know, not the most correct descriptor but what my philistine brain came up with in the moment) but such a crowd pleaser. Medium acidity and does not have the stronger concentration of fruit, a step down from the Mugniers of the world but still great work in a vintage for which I have little love. My favourite of the lunch.
2023 Kei Shiogai Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Worth caveating that this had only been bottled a few months before (and therefore somewhat unreasonable to consider it representative). Only slightly fatty bacon on the nose. The palate is surprisingly muted and atypical today. I felt that it lacked texture and was uninteresting. There was a slightly plummy quality to the mid-palate, quite tightly overall. Can't say this is the itch I wanted to scratch from Meursault, but was glad to have tried it. Maybe this is one of those wines that will only show its talents after some years. Drink after 2029 for some much needed development.
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2023 Adrien Lattard Meursault 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Bottle 226/290. Had the pleasure of inviting Adrien to lunch so drank with him. Almost laffy taffy on the nose, has a really pleasant sweetness, much more classically Meursault, Only a touch of reduction on the palate here and has a great caramel quality. Talking to Adrien, his own winemaking philosophy places far less emphasis on the reductive character of white winemaking. Needs time and will be even better when it reaches maturity. However, already this is a profound white well worth your attention.
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2023 Coche-Dury Chardonnay Bourgogne 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
This is a very classic Coche nose, served blind and was able to guess it very quickly. Biscuit is the primary flavour, one of those that needs time to emerge even at the Bourgogne level - light acidity so definitely shows its level but pleasurable plonk at the right price. I am always impressed by the texture of Coche Dury at any level and this is no exception. However, there are so many superior runners and riders in the Cote d'Or that it surprises me that these bottles are still subject to considerable speculation.
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2023 Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
This is a lot more nouveau Burgundy with that classic blue fruit quality with just a hint if pepper on the nose. I call it a bit hollow and cooling on the nose too. It is a village Gevrey Chambertin, a considerable step down from the 2022 in terms of complexity, structure and overall charm. One speculates that this is one of those vintages where the growing conditions were not so favourable to the dogmatic destemmers.
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2023 Kei Shiogai Gevrey-Chambertin Baraques 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Very kind share from the table next to us, and they did give a heads up that this was not likely to be our favourite wine of the lunch. So it transpired. Even more so than the 'normal' Shiogai Gevrey, this was incredibly disjointed and bordered on the absolutely astringent. Aromatics were not really in place with the exception of some oak-inflected spice, and the palate never managed to put on any more weight to go along with the shy expression of dark red fruit. Absolutely this is one that needs a long while in the cellar to become anything of serious note. The greatest pity is that the winemaker has been on the record of his wines needing time, but ultimately restaurants and consumers have other designs.
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2021 Domaine Amiot-Servelle Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
After a very poor experience with the winemaker in the past, this is so incredibly charming. Sweet cherry nose and has a fresh palate with a mouthwatering acidity. Definitely a feminine wine (I know, not the most correct descriptor but what my philistine brain came up with in the moment) but such a crowd pleaser. Medium acidity and does not have the stronger concentration of fruit, a step down from the Mugniers of the world but still great work in a vintage for which I have little love. My favourite of the lunch.
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