Carlisle Syrah Blindtasting 2001-2005

This tasting confirmed that these Syrahs are not the style of Cali Syrah that I enjoy. I know a number of people who are big fans of Mike Officer's Zins and Syrahs. When I've tried the Carlisle Zins, they've struck me as overripe and hot, but then I'm not a fan of most Zins. I wanted to see how this super-ripe style of Cali Syrah was aging, and the results from this vertical were not promising. Although a couple of these were enjoyable, if not something I would buy, most were too hot, too ripe, and not aging at all well. I understand that Mike has indicated he is now dialing back on ripeness levels, and starting to pick earlier, and I think he will be well served by this change.



Our tasting group organizer, Ross Bott's, introductory notes for this tasting:
Mike Officer, founder and co-winemaker at Carlisle, officially
started Carlisle in 1998, but in the years previous to this, he had
been making a barrel or two of Zinfandel for friends and family. The
raves he received encouraged him to expand, and, with the help of his
wife Kendall Carlisle, he decided to take the big steps of bonding,
and eventually leaving his "day job" as a software programmer.

Although Mike's first love has always been seeking out and making
wine from old gnarly vine Zinfandel vineyards, he has always had a
strong interest in Rhone varietals. In addition to Cote Roties,
Hermitages and Chateauneufs, Mike has an extensive collection of
Australian Syrahs, and has experimented with several of the
winemaking techniques favored by Barossa Valley winemakers. His
first Syrah was in 1999; beginning in 2003, he expanded the number of
Syrahs from a single bottling to four, in 2005 the number had risen
to seven, and in the 2006 vintage he is releasing nine Syrahs.

As with his Zinfandels, Mike Officer's style is to go for optimally
ripe Syrah grapes. He is meticulous about the grape growing process,
getting involved with only those vineyard owners who are willing to
keep yields very low and to risk autumn weather variations to harvest
late. The results are often spectacular, and I think the Syrahs if
anything have more long term potential than is very fine Zins.

Tonight we'll try a collection of eight of his Syrahs from the
2001-2005 vintages. Some tasting notes:

2001 Carlisle, Dry Creek (16.5%): "Shows off an enticing bouquet of
ripe fruit and bay leaf scents, with rich, concentrated blackberry,
plum, wild berry and beefy pepper flavors that hold true through the
finish." (92/100, Wine Spectator) Tasted after bottling, this
388-case Syrah revealed greater texture and aromatic intensity than
it did from barrel. It boasts a deep ruby/purple color in addition to
a stunning perfume of white chocolate, black fruits, earth, and
licorice. This full-bodied 2001 has added layers to its mid-palate,
and finishes with substantial intensity as well as well-integrated
acidity and tannin. A beauty, it should evolve and drink well for
10-12 years. (92/100, Robert Parker)

2002 Carlisle, Sonoma County (15.9%): "Enticing aromas of crushed
blackberry, wild berry, hazelnut and spice lead to a surprisingly
supple Syrah, that turns graceful, returning to boysenberry and
exotic pepper and spice, and it keeps repeating those flavor themes
with great intensity and persistence." (93/100, Wine
Spectator) "Sweet blackberry characteristics intermixed with
creosote, charcoal, acacia flowers, and barbecue spices are
accompanied by a full-bodied, unctuously-textured, rich, intense wine
that should drink well for a decade. ... A sensational effort"
(94/100, Robert Parker)

2003 Carlisle, Dry Creek (15.8%): This wine is from the Teldeschi
Ranch, which produced many of the legendary Joseph Swan Zinfandels in
the 1970s. Notes from Mike Officer: "Dark purple. Captivating aromas
of blackberry, blueberry, smoked meats, and mocha. Even a hint of new
saddle leather. A great sniff! In the mouth, rich and full-bodied,
with plenty of blackberry fruit through the lasting finish."

2003 Carlisle, Bennett Valley (15.9%): "The marvelous 2003 Syrah
Bennett Valley provides a great introduction to one of California's
newest AVAs. A deep purple color is followed by aromas of blackberry
liqueur, lavender, flowers, spice, and pepper. Rich and full-bodied,
with crisp acidity that provides uplift, this massively-endowed,
super-rich, pure Syrah tips the scales at [15.9]% alcohol (although
that component is totally concealed by the wine's fruit and
glycerin). It should drink well for at least a decade." (95/100, Robert Parker)

2004 Carlisle, Dry Creek (15.8%): "The 2004 Syrah Sonoma reveals an
inky/blue/purple color as well as a big, sweet perfume of flowers,
blackberries, camphor, and earth. Supple-textured with abundant
glycerin (which obscures some hefty tannin), this gorgeous red should
evolve for a decade or more." (92/100, Robert Parker)

2004 Carlisle "Judge Family Vineyard", Bennett Valley (15.9%): "The
blockbuster 2004 Syrah Judge Family Vineyard boasts meaty, lard,
blackberry, and flower aromas, an opulent, voluptuous, full-bodied
personality, and a juicy, succulent finish. It will provide a total
hedonistic and intellectual turn-on over the next decade. Readers
should not hesitate to get on Carlisle's mailing list before the
world discovers what compelling beverages are being produced here."
(95/100, Robert Parker)

2005 Carlisle, Russian River Valley (16.7%): "The last of the 2005s
to hit the market includes the 2005 Syrah Russian River, which has an
inky bluish/purple color and a stunning nose of camphor, blackberry
jam, licorice, and smoke. The wine has zesty acidity (a
characteristic of this vintage) and a stunning fleshy, medium to
full-bodied palate. It should drink well for 7-8 years." (94/100,
Robert Parker)

2005 Carlisle, Dry Creek Valley (15.9%): No reviews
available. Tasting notes from Mike Officer: "Dark
ruby-purple. Nearly opaque. Complex, intense aromas of blackberry,
ripe black olive, and smoked meats. On the palate, full-bodied but
not at all over the top with beautiful structure and
delineation. Without question, our finest Dry Creek syrah to date,
even perhaps one of our finest syrahs ever! Drink from 2008 through 2013."

The group thought the '04 Dry Creek was the strongest of this flight; I thought it was somewhat faulty. My favorite, and the group's number 2, was the '05 Russian River Valley, which I thought was the least overripe and most Rhone-like of the bunch. I thought there was something faulty about the '05 Dry Creek as well, and the '02 Sonoma County was badly corked.

• 2004 Carlisle Syrah Dry Creek Valley 86 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Group's #1 (my #5) – 33 pts; 1 1st place vote, 5 2nd place votes, 0 thirds, 0 last places – Same color on all of these wines: opaque, dark purple violet color with cherry edges; tighter, earth, caramel oak and camphor nose; tight, dense black fruit and graphite, with maybe a touch of TCA; medium-plus finish (15.8% alcohol)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2005 Carlisle Syrah Russian River Valley 92 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Group's #2 (my #1) – 38 pts; 2 1st place votes, 2 2nd place votes, 1 third, 0 last places – More roasted meat and pepper on the nose than the others in the flight, along with black fruit; nice, more balanced, roasted black fruit, pepper and herb palate, the most Rhone-like of the 8 Carlisle Syrahs in this tasting; medium-plus finish (15.7%)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2003 Carlisle Syrah Bennett Valley 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley

  Group's #3 (my #2) – 38 pts; 1, 2, 0, 0 – Lavender, wild berry and mulberry nose; sweet berry, raspberry and tart plum palate, with concentration; medium-plus finish (15.9%)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2004 Carlisle Syrah Judge Family Vineyard Bennett Valley 88 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley

  Group's #4 (my #4) – 40 pts; 1, 0, 2, 1 – Opaque, dark purple violet color with cherry edges; big, ripe, boysenberry, berry and chocolate nose; a little hot on entry, with a roasted black fruit and berry palate, tight yet; medium-plus finish 88+ pts. (15.9%)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2005 Carlisle Syrah Dry Creek Valley 82 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Group's #5 (my #7) – 44 pts; 4, 0, 0, 1 – Oaky, greenish nose (mercaptan? sulfur?) that changes to more of a barnyard and green nose after 30 minutes in the glass; green bean and graphite in the foreground against a diffuse black fruit background; hot medium finish (15.9%)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2003 Carlisle Syrah Dry Creek Valley 90 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Group's #6 (my #3) – 44 pts; 0, 0, 4, 0 – Most elegant, refined berry, ripe plum and black licorice nose; graphite, bittersweet chocolate powder and black fruit palate, that gets increasingly flat with air; medium finish 90+ pts. (15.8%)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No

• 2001 Carlisle Syrah Dry Creek Valley 84 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

  Group's #7 (my #6) – 50 pts; 0, 1, 2, 1 – Narrow but intriguing berry and chocolate syrup ethyl alcohol nose with a little VA; hot entry, tight, berry and blueberry palate; with a cliff, short-medium finish (16.5%)

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No