French Bakery BYO Cote de Nuit 1er & Grand Cru Dinner II

French Bakery, Kane Concourse, Bay Harbor Islands, FL
Tasted Thursday, October 16, 2008 by markellen.foodies@gmail.com with 889 views

Introduction

Maria's Frumkin's menu::
Charcuterie and Jambon Persille - Burgundian Antipasto Family Style
Escargot en Croute
Duck two ways - Maigret with Cassis Sauce; and Confit with Celeriac
Three Cheeses, three textures
Cerise Clafoutis and Cerise Ice Cream

Attendees: Alam & Bill Berke; Deridre Conley & Richard Groves(Boisset - Mommesin); Jeffrey Davies(Jeffrey Davies-Signature Selections); Mark Friedman(me); Al Heitman; Edith & Bob Hudson; Pablo Lancella; Steve Mandy, M.D.; Bob Radziewicz; and Lee & Chris Zoller

SCORING: I advised the attendees to score the wines at 90 or above if they would personally purchase the wine, and as high as 95 or better if they considered one to be exceptional. And to score them at 89 or less(with no floor)if they would not buy them! (This is due to the fact that all Wine merchants know that a wine that doesn't have a 90 or better Review doesn't SELL!)

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Flight 2 - FLIGHT 1 - THE MORE YOUTHFUL WINES! (3 Notes)

  • 2002 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

    10/16 My Wine. Received 9 of 14 1sts, an average score of 91.2, ranging from Jeffrey Davies 88/89 to Steve Mandy's and my 93s.Chris(92) noted the good fruit. My comment(93) was wonderful bouquet. Jeffrey's(88/89) comment was plump with good Pinot fruit and underlying acid(He correctly identified the Chevillon, although he mistakenly presumed the alpahabetical listing reflected the actual flights.)Anonymous(BobR? - 91)commented light pinot nose, dark color, and short length. While Deirdre(92) commented silkl long finish, and Charly(91) commented on long finish.

    I double decanted in am, and was surprised by the forward bouquet. I then left the bottle stand open for 3 hours at the office prior to dinner. It seemed to work.

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  • 1999 Daniel Moine-Hudelot Bonnes Mares 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    10/16 Richard's wine. Received 2 of 14 1sts, with an average score of 88.7. Scores ranged from Bob Hudson's 93 to 80/85 for Anonymous (Bob R?), and Steve and Charly who thought the wine was oxidized. Bill thought it to be vinegar. Jeffrey(90) said very mature, earthy, truffly aromas. Pablo (88) - liquerish. Chris(90) earth, barn, leather. Deirdre(92) thick cherry. Richard(90) old/sherry - raisin.Me(91) tart cherry, improved with air.

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  • 2002 Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos Vougeot 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    10/16 Deirdre's wine. Received 2 1sts + 2 split votes, average 89.8 from 11 respondents, ranging from Richard's singular 95, to a low of 87 from Jeffrey. Richard(95) beautiful fruit, acid, balance. Jeffrey(87) already mature Pinot aromas, light finish. Bill, needs time.Me(88) savage, heavier.
    Charly(91) great nose and minerality.Steve(88) petiance(or petillance?). Chris(90) spice, blackberry. Pablo(89) young, probably will get better.Deirdre(89) older, terroir, mushroom.

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Flight 3 - Flight 2 (3 Notes)

  • 1993 Hospices de Nuits Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Corvees Paget Cuvée St Laurent Chartron et Trebuchet 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru

    10/16 Chris's wine Received 1 of 14 1sts, average of 89.3 ranging from Jeffrey Davies (92) to a low of 86(Chris). Jeffrey's comments- seems quite pure and delicate, medium bodied, 1999 Gevrey? good complexity. Charly(91) nice finish.Me(88) fair, heavy. Bob R(89) light color.Pablo(88) thin.Chris(86) thin, acidic.

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  • 1990 Jean-Jacques Confuron Clos Vougeot 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    10/16 Steve Mandy's wine. Received 10 of 14 1sts ranging from 90(3) to 95(3-Alam Berke, Leee Zoller, and Charly Frumkin).Average 92.1. Charly((95) Great nose, cassis fruit, pure.Me(90) balanced. Jeffrey(91) fuller bodied, more aromatic, curious sweetness, and a hint of vegetal aromatics, maybe a 1995? gets jammy with air.Deridre(93) beautiful.Bob(91) deeper red. Pablo(94) meaty/viscous.Chris(90) fruit, lush mouthfeel, rich.

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  • 1999 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    10/16 Al's wine Received 2 of 14 1sts average of 90.5 ranging from Deirdre's(93) beautiful! to to 87. Pablo(92) tight, will get better. Bob R(90) deepest red. Charly(90) elegant, complex. Jeffrey(89) very understated. Chris(87) thin, alcohol, tart. Me 87(similar to Hospices de Beaune,i.e. fair heavy.

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Flight 4 - Flight 3 - Alam & Bill Berke's Flight! (2 Notes)

  • 1998 Maison Alex Gambal Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    10/16 Bill's wine. 3of 14 1sts, average 91.1(skewed by Alam's 98) ranging from 98 to Jeffrey's 88. Charly(93) rich, deep, exotic.Richard(92) Beautiful balance. Deirdre(90) Tight. Me(89) Good, but heavy. Jeffrey(88) Tight, still closed, 1995?

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  • 1996 Dominique Laurent Fixin 1er Cru Hervelets 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru

    10/16 Bill's wine 5 of 14 1sts, average 91.3 rangimg from Deirdre and Richard's (95s) to My 86. Deirdre(95) Gorgeous,full. Richard(95) Powerful attack. Pablo (94) lots of acidity. Charly(94) Soooo Powerfull. Chris(90) Barnyard, classic. Jeffrey(87) Hints of cork, bizarre(?), light acid. Me(86) BRETT!

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Flight 5 - Flight 4 (3 Notes)

  • 1995 Mommessin Clos de Tart 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    10/16 Deirdre's wine 5 1st's of 13, average 92.1 from Steve and Pablo's 95s to Lee's 89. Bob R(94) WOTN! Deridre(93) Deliciious, tight.Charly(93) Balanced. Jeffrey(92/93) Gevrey 1990?. Richard(92) Leather start. Me(91) good fruit.

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  • 1990 Mommessin Clos de Tart 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    10/16 Steve Mandy's wine. 4-1/2 1sts of of 13, average 91.2, ranging from Charly"Outstanding" & Bill's 95s, to my 80(Volatile acidity?) Deirdre(94) Silky, lovely.Jeffrey(94) Gevrey 1990? Richard(93) Nice age.

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  • 1993 Louis Jadot Bonnes Mares 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    10/16 Bob H's wine. 3-1/2 1sts of of 13 respondents, average 90.9 ranging from Deirdre's 96 to my 85. Deridre(96) Wow, long, grows in its shape on palate(?). Richard(95) Exotic middle.Charly(91) Powerful firm. Jeffrey Davies(88) Light and slightly underripe. Tart? Me(85) Don't like.

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Flight 6 - Flight 5 (3 Notes)

Flight 7 - Chris's RINGER! (1 Note)

  • 1998 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Southeast Block Reserve

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley

    Chris Z's RINGER. Obviously New World, however contrary to my brazen delcaration, that it couldn't be OREGON, it was. Chris said he selected it because of the parallels to Burgundy, not only latitude, but climatic and soil conditions as well. It showed well for a 13 year old Oregonian, and I am frequently finding that Oregon Pinot's do require extended aging, although not always successfully.(I recently had 99 Archery Summit Red Hill Estate(excellent), and Arcus(consistently disappointing) back to back.

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Closing

POST MORTEM AND NOVEMBER BAROLO DINNER!!!

The top 4 wines,
Jean Jacques Confuron 1990 Clos vougeot, 92.1 average;
Mommessin 1995 Clos de Tart, 92.1 average;
Joseph Drouhin 1990 Griotttes-Chambertin, 92.0 average;
Domaine comte de Vogue 2000 1er Cru Chambolle-Musigny 91.9 average.

To my mind, the Thursday line-up was superior to Wednesday. All the wines were very good to excellent, which was reflected in the average scores. However there was NO ONE WINE which was representative of the HOLY GRAIL of Burgundy/Pinot Noir - extraordinary perfume; complex secondary and tertiary development, which I have only personally experienced a handful of times in the 50 years, I have been a wine drinker(I grew up in New York State whent the legal drinking age was 18), and which would merit a score in excess of 95.
The youngest wines we had were 2002, which unexpectedly showed well(The recent 2002's, I've had, have seemed to be in a dumb stage). We had five 1990's, which were quite youthful, and none showing excessive age, oxidation, or what I call shellac(VA?).

NOVEMBER Dinner(s) BAROLO 2000 and Older, Wednesday, November 19th, and Thursday, November 20th. Barolo was our inaugural dinner in October 2006, which I believe only Jerry, Charly, Cesar, and I attended of the current participants. Robert Barnes, beought an extraordinary Ceretto, which was WOTN by acclaim. If I attend both nights I will spice up the evenings with 97 Gaja Sperss, 2000 La Spinetta Campe, and 96 Sandrone Cannubi Bochis(or Le Vigne).

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